Finally got an MS-69 1988 S$5 CAN

Azurescens

Last 20 coins have been MS68 with 3 67s and a 69.

I will get my 70 some day 😏

Until then I guess I'll have to sit on a pile of high grade key dates.. oh well..

Estil

I dunno...is it really worth all that extra money for just one more notch on a number on a label though?

Azurescens

@Estil said:
I dunno...is it really worth all that extra money for just one more notch on a number on a label though?

Are you asking if a new Top Pop, Pop 1 key date coin would be worth the $18?

Estil

@Azurescens said:

@Estil said:
I dunno...is it really worth all that extra money for just one more notch on a number on a label though?

Are you asking if a new Top Pop, Pop 1 key date coin would be worth the $18?

Well not that but I mean sometimes the difference is in the hundreds, maybe thousands of dollars yet many here pay the extra money for one notch higher without hardly a second thought. Gonna soon pop a Top Pop, again?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pm-zduI7zcE

Downtown1974

Definitely a big money piece for someone building a registry set.

Azurescens

@Estil said:

@Azurescens said:

@Estil said:
I dunno...is it really worth all that extra money for just one more notch on a number on a label though?

Are you asking if a new Top Pop, Pop 1 key date coin would be worth the $18?

Well not that but I mean sometimes the difference is in the hundreds, maybe thousands of dollars yet many here pay the extra money for one notch higher without hardly a second thought. Gonna soon pop a Top Pop, again?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pm-zduI7zcE

I hope so. I got a few modern Aus colorized commems last year (the Dreaming series) and those did well.

It might not seem like much but this MS-69 will make me a few hundred dollars. An MS-70 honestly I think I would send to CAC and then an auction house. Might sound like a joke to some of you guys but I wouldn't even know what to ask. It's hard enough getting all 66s off a 10 strip of these. I saw a fake PCGS MS-70 last year but have never seen a real one for sale.

This is my first really good submission of them too. Sometimes it's like all 66s and a single 67 or 68. People who collect modern Canadian stuff know how hard it is to get good ones of anything from the 80s to like 2008 or so.

For example it is very hard to find a 2013 MS-70 25th anniversary SML with no milk spots. They're all terrible, and they only made a few thousand.

I have a toned one in MS-68 and honestly don't think I'd ever sell it. I've never seen a better one.

They're all just made so poorly but gems do exist.

Estil

How did it get a 68 with that yucky toning around the edges? That's all the more reason I always get my silver eagles and maples BU in capsules. I do not like toning and rust, I do not like it Estil I am!

Downtown1974

@Estil said:
How did it get a 68 with that yucky toning around the edges? That's all the more reason I always get my silver eagles and maples BU in capsules. I do not like toning and rust, I do not like it Estil I am!

The toning is much nicer than the milk spots that plague silver maples and ASEs. BU examples in capsules are not exempt from that occurring.

Estil

@Downtown1974 said:

@Estil said:
How did it get a 68 with that yucky toning around the edges? That's all the more reason I always get my silver eagles and maples BU in capsules. I do not like toning and rust, I do not like it Estil I am!

The toning is much nicer than the milk spots that plague silver maples and ASEs. BU examples in capsules are not exempt from that occurring.

Oh I sure hope I don't get that...

Azurescens

@Estil said:
How did it get a 68 with that yucky toning around the edges? That's all the more reason I always get my silver eagles and maples BU in capsules. I do not like toning and rust, I do not like it Estil I am!

It was at the top of the roll in a tube.

None of the others have toning on the surfaces but the ones that were on top have it on their rims.

I've got 24 others that are spot free but I l've been hesitant to grade them. I've been watching this niche and my key takeaway is honestly I think people just abandoned this issue.

They're just.. all bad. I think this really crushed any appeal they had. You open a sealed roll and they're all coated with milk spots. Some surfaces are like 75-90% covered. It's the worst I've ever seen.

I think people got turned off by these entirely because so many were absolutely trash, so none of them have ever been desired. You can only open so many sealed tubes to find garbage before you're just disgusted with a coin. There may very well be some 69s or a 70 in the tube I got. Maybe one day I'll get around to it, but I think it would be hard to find someone to like it, even if I got a perfect one.

Estil

As least you can afford to get whole tubes!! That wouldn't be any fun though to get all the same year though...the idea (at least for me; I'm a collector first and a stacker second) is to collect all the years you can (I'm just four years short (86. 95. 96. 98) of having all the silver eagles up to 2020). The same is true for silver dimes/quarters/halves...or as I like to call them good HONEST money!

And milk might do a body good but it sure doesn't do a silver coin good!! How do the milk spots appear? I mean they're not just gonna one day magically appear on any of my 80s/90s/00s silver eagles/maples (I always get them BC and capsuled and I got a really good go-to Ebay dealer for that)...I hope?

Azurescens

I'm not 100% sure, but I think they can still appear a little while after they've been minted. It strikes me as the kinda thing that happens relatively quickly if it is going to happen. I've never had like a 2013 or 2018 roll suddenly just go bad 5 or 10 years later after being fine for a long time.

Maybe it might seem that way with coins you don't really take a good look at and then they tone and the milk spots really pop out at you.

Pretty sure the milk spots are a result of dies being chemically treated and not cleaned properly afterward, so they're just stamping the chemical onto coins and it damages the silver. There's no way to remove them despite what some people say. It's damage, so I don't know how some heavily spotted MS70 or PR70 even exist.

I could be wrong on this but those are my key takeaways. I'm not an expert though.

US coinage seems pretty stable. The Royal Canadian Mint had a small problem with this in the 80s and some of the 90s that just went out of control a little while later. I think they've finally got a handle on it. I don't see modern reverse proofs with problems like that, for example. I rarely even see ASE with them unless that's just survivorship bias, and all the gross ones have been melted.

Estil

Well it just so happens 80s/90s is my child/teen years so naturally that's the ones I'd want first. And early 2000s (UK days) to a lesser extent.