@ProofCollection said:
Update: CAC results are in.
1927-S MS62: CAC
1928-P MS63: Not CAC
1936 PR64: CAC
Overall a victory I'd say. The CAC stickers for the coins that dropped a grade compensates quite nicely.
Do you know why the 1928-P did not pass?
It appears that PVC was safely removed by you from the other two; but, the coins were in fact over graded the first time by PCGS and received CACs because of the new lower grade..
@ProofCollection said:
Update: CAC results are in.
1927-S MS62: CAC
1928-P MS63: Not CAC
1936 PR64: CAC
Overall a victory I'd say. The CAC stickers for the coins that dropped a grade compensates quite nicely.
Do you know why the 1928-P did not pass?
It appears that PVC was safely removed by you from the other two; but, the coins were in fact over graded the first time by PCGS and received CACs because of the new lower grade..
I don't have the coins yet so I'll have to see if JA left any notes on the 1928. As far as overgrading, maybe.
In the case of the 27-S, it all depends on how much you penalize the coin for the light scrape on the cheek. I'm not convinced that JA would reject a bean in a 63 holder but he might. The coin is very clean otherwise and 62's are generally pretty marked/banged up.
The quarter, IMO, was impossible to accurately grade pre-restoration as you could not have accurately assessed the surface preservation. You certainly can't see hairlines. I'm not sure how they grade toned/pvc'd coins like that quarter. In the past year I have restored a few other coins (myself) that had toning that when removed revealed (or made more visible) many marks/dings that results in the coins coming back a grade lower. This is why I'm not too much of a fan of toned coins because in my experience the toning is hiding surface marks and they are probably overgraded. In these cases, I generally bought the coins at enough of a discount that I was willing to take a lower grade or it didn't matter, but I've now seen it enough to come to expect it.
@JerseyB said:
I'm pretty confused. I can maybe see some greenish film on the 28 but I don't see it on the 27-s. I have a few peace dollars that have a whitish haze/film on them when you look at an angle. Are my coins covered in PVC too?
I don't necessarily see the "haze" but I see the etched surfaces. The '22 reverse is severely etched. The '27 shows light etching and granular surfaces on the high points. The damage is permanent; neither coin can be repaired.
@JerseyB said:
I'm pretty confused. I can maybe see some greenish film on the 28 but I don't see it on the 27-s. I have a few peace dollars that have a whitish haze/film on them when you look at an angle. Are my coins covered in PVC too?
I don't necessarily see the "haze" but I see the etched surfaces. The '22 reverse is severely etched. The '27 shows light etching and granular surfaces on the high points. The damage is permanent; neither coin can be repaired.
What do you mean by "etched"? They were carved into? Or they were AU coins that someone tried to doctor?
@JerseyB said:
I'm pretty confused. I can maybe see some greenish film on the 28 but I don't see it on the 27-s. I have a few peace dollars that have a whitish haze/film on them when you look at an angle. Are my coins covered in PVC too?
I don't necessarily see the "haze" but I see the etched surfaces. The '22 reverse is severely etched. The '27 shows light etching and granular surfaces on the high points. The damage is permanent; neither coin can be repaired.
What do you mean by "etched"? They were carved into? Or they were AU coins that someone tried to doctor?
Acids used to process PVC leach out of PVC soft-flips and chew on the coin's surface, etching the surface over time. That dollar has badly etched and corroded surfaces on the reverse from what I can see.
@JerseyB said:
I'm pretty confused. I can maybe see some greenish film on the 28 but I don't see it on the 27-s. I have a few peace dollars that have a whitish haze/film on them when you look at an angle. Are my coins covered in PVC too?
I don't necessarily see the "haze" but I see the etched surfaces. The '22 reverse is severely etched. The '27 shows light etching and granular surfaces on the high points. The damage is permanent; neither coin can be repaired.
What do you mean by "etched"? They were carved into? Or they were AU coins that someone tried to doctor?
Acids used to process PVC leach out of PVC soft-flips and chew on the coin's surface, etching the surface over time. That dollar has badly etched and corroded surfaces on the reverse from what I can see.
Gotcha. I actually just cracked the coin and started an acetone soak. I will update when I have results if any. Any insight on how long to soak? I usually do a day or two.
I'd look at the surfaces first to see if they're salvageable. Unfortunately, that first coin is ruined. It even chewed a third of the way up the rims. I soak coins for a few minutes to as long as a day depending upon the cupric salt and gunk buildup on the coin.
From what I see, I wouldn't bother trying to restore them.
@gorebels said:
After dipping, do you neutralize in a baking soda solution, or go straight to tap or distilled water?
Tap water and pat dry with microfiber towel. It shouldn't matter what you use as long as you use enough of it because you dry it off. Sometimes I will rinse in acetone for good measure.
@Barberian said:
I'd look at the surfaces first to see if they're salvageable. Unfortunately, that first coin is ruined. It even chewed a third of the way up the rims. I soak coins for a few minutes to as long as a day depending upon the cupric salt and gunk buildup on the coin.
From what I see, I wouldn't bother trying to restore them.
On the up side, these are good coins to experiment with now as there is little downside.
@Barberian said:
I'd look at the surfaces first to see if they're salvageable. Unfortunately, that first coin is ruined. It even chewed a third of the way up the rims. I soak coins for a few minutes to as long as a day depending upon the cupric salt and gunk buildup on the coin.
From what I see, I wouldn't bother trying to restore them.
so I soaked the first coin and you were right that thing is ruined. The second coin i will just move on from at some point. My big concern is how in the world does PCGS straight grade the first coin?
New Update! The coins are back from CAC. The note on the 1928 MS63 Peace says "Reverse Lines." I think that's very nitty, but it is what it is. I do wonder what CACG would do with it - Details? Or make it a 62? Either way I think the assessment is too strict and PCGS is right on the grade, but still wrong to deny restoration.
@ProofCollection said:
New Update! The coins are back from CAC. The note on the 1928 MS63 Peace says "Reverse Lines." I think that's very nitty, but it is what it is. I do wonder what CACG would do with it - Details? Or make it a 62? Either way I think the assessment is too strict and PCGS is right on the grade, but still wrong to deny restoration.
From CAC website -
Excessive Hairlines: These coins exhibit a large number of hairlines deemed overly distracting to the coin’s surface. Hairlines may occur by sliding coins across tabletops, cabinet wear, or dust getting inside a sliding window album.
Most likely outcome based on my experience - Grade CAC UNC DETAILS
Details Cleaned (Registry 50)
@ProofCollection said:
New Update! The coins are back from CAC. The note on the 1928 MS63 Peace says "Reverse Lines." I think that's very nitty, but it is what it is. I do wonder what CACG would do with it - Details? Or make it a 62? Either way I think the assessment is too strict and PCGS is right on the grade, but still wrong to deny restoration.
From CAC website -
Excessive Hairlines: These coins exhibit a large number of hairlines deemed overly distracting to the coin’s surface. Hairlines may occur by sliding coins across tabletops, cabinet wear, or dust getting inside a sliding window album.
Most likely outcome based on my experience - Grade CAC UNC DETAILS
Details Cleaned (Registry 50)
An AU would drop to (Registry 40)!
I don't think it's hairlines. Not that are distracting or "overly distracting." I think the lines are the ones circled which are very minor.
Comments
Do you know why the 1928-P did not pass?
It appears that PVC was safely removed by you from the other two; but, the coins were in fact over graded the first time by PCGS and received CACs because of the new lower grade..
I don't have the coins yet so I'll have to see if JA left any notes on the 1928. As far as overgrading, maybe.
In the case of the 27-S, it all depends on how much you penalize the coin for the light scrape on the cheek. I'm not convinced that JA would reject a bean in a 63 holder but he might. The coin is very clean otherwise and 62's are generally pretty marked/banged up.
The quarter, IMO, was impossible to accurately grade pre-restoration as you could not have accurately assessed the surface preservation. You certainly can't see hairlines. I'm not sure how they grade toned/pvc'd coins like that quarter. In the past year I have restored a few other coins (myself) that had toning that when removed revealed (or made more visible) many marks/dings that results in the coins coming back a grade lower. This is why I'm not too much of a fan of toned coins because in my experience the toning is hiding surface marks and they are probably overgraded. In these cases, I generally bought the coins at enough of a discount that I was willing to take a lower grade or it didn't matter, but I've now seen it enough to come to expect it.
I don't necessarily see the "haze" but I see the etched surfaces. The '22 reverse is severely etched. The '27 shows light etching and granular surfaces on the high points. The damage is permanent; neither coin can be repaired.
After dipping, do you neutralize in a baking soda solution, or go straight to tap or distilled water?
What do you mean by "etched"? They were carved into? Or they were AU coins that someone tried to doctor?
Acids used to process PVC leach out of PVC soft-flips and chew on the coin's surface, etching the surface over time. That dollar has badly etched and corroded surfaces on the reverse from what I can see.
Gotcha. I actually just cracked the coin and started an acetone soak. I will update when I have results if any. Any insight on how long to soak? I usually do a day or two.
I'd look at the surfaces first to see if they're salvageable. Unfortunately, that first coin is ruined. It even chewed a third of the way up the rims. I soak coins for a few minutes to as long as a day depending upon the cupric salt and gunk buildup on the coin.
From what I see, I wouldn't bother trying to restore them.
I wish we could hear more from insider4. Sadly insider3 didn’t stay long.
Tap water and pat dry with microfiber towel. It shouldn't matter what you use as long as you use enough of it because you dry it off. Sometimes I will rinse in acetone for good measure.
On the up side, these are good coins to experiment with now as there is little downside.
so I soaked the first coin and you were right that thing is ruined. The second coin i will just move on from at some point. My big concern is how in the world does PCGS straight grade the first coin?
New Update! The coins are back from CAC. The note on the 1928 MS63 Peace says "Reverse Lines." I think that's very nitty, but it is what it is. I do wonder what CACG would do with it - Details? Or make it a 62? Either way I think the assessment is too strict and PCGS is right on the grade, but still wrong to deny restoration.
From CAC website -
Excessive Hairlines: These coins exhibit a large number of hairlines deemed overly distracting to the coin’s surface. Hairlines may occur by sliding coins across tabletops, cabinet wear, or dust getting inside a sliding window album.
Most likely outcome based on my experience - Grade CAC UNC DETAILS
Details Cleaned (Registry 50)
An AU would drop to (Registry 40)!
I don't think it's hairlines. Not that are distracting or "overly distracting." I think the lines are the ones circled which are very minor.
