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Advice Needed on Some Canadian coins Thank you

Good afternoon,
I am new to coins and only know enough to be dangerous. I have a few Canadian coins I am wondering if they are worth anything and what kind of grade they might be.
The first one is the 1936 10 cents.
a. I am certain that it is the “bar” variety but again I am just learning.
b. It looks like on Cents, Canada, and some of the leaves there is doubling. Is this doubling or is it machine doubling?
c. If it is doubling, I see no varieties online of the bar with doubling? How do I determine the value?
d. There is a lot of dirt, but it is my understanding I should not try and clean any coin?
e. Should I have it graded?







The second one is the 1895 one cent.

a. I can see that the 5 is lower and I see some discussions online about it, but I cannot find a value or even a population of these?
b. It is also very dirty.
c. Should I have it graded?


The third is the 1881 one cent H mint mark.

a. Is this doubling or machine doubling?
b. If it is doubling, how do I put a value on it?
c. Should I have it graded?


I appreciate any input on these, I hope no one gets tired of seeing my posts.

Comments

  • 291fifth291fifth Posts: 24,371 ✭✭✭✭✭

    None of the coins you show are worth slabbing. I don't know the current value of Canadian coins but, based on my very old Krause catalog none appear to be scarce or rare.

    All glory is fleeting.
  • bosoxbosox Posts: 1,555 ✭✭✭✭✭

    The 1881H cent is DDO. It looks cleaned and might be worth $30-40. These are a little scarce, but not rare.

    Numismatic author & owner of the Uncommon Cents collections. 2011 Fred Bowman award winner, 2020 J. Douglas Ferguson award winner, & 2022 Paul Fiocca award winner.

    http://www.victoriancent.com
  • Thank you both. I am just learning and this helps. I have a lot of coins to go through

  • sylsyl Posts: 945 ✭✭✭
    edited February 26, 2024 4:58PM

    The dime is the bar variety and it has some die deterioration doubling which adds no value. The 1895 is just a regular common '95. The last digit (5) was handpunched into each die, so the 5's can be all over and worth no extra value, plus it has lots of crud. Your last one, the '81 has some punch doubling, but not all the way around. The punch-doubling is quite common for the '81's, with different offsets and directions. There would be a small premium for that one, but it would cost more to have cert'd than it would ever be worth. Now the '36 bar MIGHT be worth certing if it was better shape but, as it is, it also would cost more that the coin would ever be worth. It costs much extra to cert errors or varieties. Your coin is VF and Trends for $60 and you could probably get someone to pay $40 or so. The cost to cert, mail, insure and mail back, plus the cert would be more than the $60. You normall need to have a coin that you can SELL for over $150 to make it worth cert'ing, but most say worth at least $200(that worth to sell, not Trends or a book).

    I thought that this had already been posted before bosox's and after 291fifth's. I wondered why it didn't show and here it is ready for me to hit the "post" button. It was written about 4:15. Oh, well, the words remain the same.

  • 1960NYGiants1960NYGiants Posts: 3,492 ✭✭✭✭

    The 1936 bar 10 cents in VF cats at $40CAD or $30USD.
    The 1895 cent in VG cats at $9CAD or $6USD - with the crud much less.
    The 1881-H cent DDO in Fine cats at $50CAD or $35USD.

    None are worth certifying.

    Gene

    Life member #369 of the Royal Canadian Numismatic Association
    Member of Canadian Association of Token Collectors

    Collector of:
    Canadian coins and pre-confederation tokens
    Darkside proof/mint sets dated 1960
    My Ebay
  • YQQYQQ Posts: 3,314 ✭✭✭✭✭

    agree with the above...
    NOT worth being certified.

    Today is the first day of the rest of my life
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