1928 Peace Dollar Looking for a little direction
HiBucky
Posts: 592 ✭✭✭
I have this 1928 peace dollar not graded but I see that a grade of "Poor 1" should be granted to this coin. Presently a 1928-D dollar is listed on E Bay in Poor 1 condition mine is better then that meaning ( less detail ) and he is asking $900 + for the coin. I am thinking of posting it on the Buy and Sell but kind of trying to find a fair price. If someone is trying to put together a low ball peace dollar set this is the coin for them... I want to ask $1400 and will take best offer the coin does not have any issues or problems just honest wear. I would offer a full return it the coin does not slab.. What do you think a fair price may be .. I had another dealer tell me I should list it for $$2500 but I think that is out of the ballpark... Any low ball collectors want to comment .. Tks JIm
Comments
One would need to see both sides of the coin. If it doesn't straight grade, it's not a poor 1.
Can you be sure it isn't a 28-S? If you can't be sure, it's not worth a premium, it's just a cull dollar.
That's nice!
Can we see the Mexican coin from below? Very intriguing....
PO1 is a plastic grade for people who collect novelties and like the history of heavy use. What I mean by a plastic grade is that 95% of the value is in the plastic or maybe contingent on the plastic would be a better way to phrase it. Your coin is raw and does not qualify for a plastic price. What I mean by novelties is that it is a niche market at best without the liquidity of more established and actively traded specialties. Example you could get AU wholesale money for a nice AU raw bust dollar with the pros factoring in the low risk it would take to maximize the coin. Most Pros wouldn’t bother paying wholesale for an already maximized graded PO1 peace dollar let alone getting them to agree to what wholesale was for it.
There simply is too much risk in it not getting graded at that level to have someone pay as if it was already a given it was a PO1. With the mint mark area that worn it is actually more likely than not that it would not get graded making it a cull piece of silver that a dealer might pay 20$ for. 1400$ is simply not realistic and it would never sell, 2500$ was either bad advice by a novice or a pro mocking you because he was having a bad day and your certainty in an absurd notion rubbed him the wrong way.
If you want to list it honestly to maximize your returns it would be like this
1928(p?) possible PO1 Lowball 100$
It might move to a sucker that way who plays/pays the grading game. To the rest of the world it is cull silver. Around 30$-40$ retail so that’s a 3x value up-sale for hope. Or you could pay the grading fees and if you get blessed with the plastic you could get 749$ ish if it says 1928p PO1. But even that is a specific buyer that could take some time to find. If you crap out you’re down 100$ for a cheap coin. There lies the risk.
I’ll end it for with a comparison. 1400$ is 150$ more than this one is listed at currently (not my coin). A choice UNC in old plastic with CAC. Which would you rather have?
11.5$ Southern Dollars, The little “Big Easy” set
I think you should send it in to get slabbed yourself before selling it.
I like the comments. I will send out to be graded and see what happens.. I had it sitting on my table for $100.00 when an9other dealer came to me and said that it could be worth a lot more money to a low ball collector... SO I pulled it and after a year I found it again .. I think sending it out could be the answer. It could be a waste of money but the upside verses the downside may warrant it .. Tks. Jim ..
You reference a 28-D dollar…….?????
I have the 1928 so I am hoping, the 1928-D is listed on E Bay and that is what I used as a comparison.
jim
I agree with Crypto. IMHO this it is just a cull coin woth what silver is. P1 and P2 is hard to distinct, and then have that collector who do this kind of collection. I know one but will not take if it is not graded. I will risk all the fees and then comeback P3 or P4? No.
Due to the times we live on false media about this hobby, those pseudo-collectors look just for fast big money. Damage is happened as is.
NEVER ARGUE WITH AN IDIOT.
FIRST THEY WILL DRAG YOU DOWN TO THEIR LEVEL.
THEN, THEY WILL BEAT YOU WITH EXPERIENCE.
MARK TWAIN
I believe if you wanted to sell it consider sending it to great collections, they can have it graded if indicated.
I think I see a S, are those pits on the reverse?
Value is dependent on straight grade and nice looks, many get details for .... scratch, corrosion, edge damage, cleaned ....
If you have a 28-D, you probably could get $25K if from mint
Looks like there is an S there.
Do you can see the S with an 10X magnifier???
NEVER ARGUE WITH AN IDIOT.
FIRST THEY WILL DRAG YOU DOWN TO THEIR LEVEL.
THEN, THEY WILL BEAT YOU WITH EXPERIENCE.
MARK TWAIN
Uhhhhhhh....... They didn't make a 1928-D Peace dollar. Don't bother wasting your money grading this.