Question about psa
kobefan1
Posts: 494 ✭✭✭
Hello, I heard that if you selling a psa 9 in old holder you shouldn't get psa 9 money as the grade is more an psa 8 then a 9?
2
Comments
Buy the card not the holder
That is a very interestingly worded question. But not exactly clear. Can you no longer sell a car for the price of a car because the price of a car is no longer the price of a car? I mean I think I get what you are trying to say but terms like PSA 9 money dont mean anything when we are talking about something in flux. A number of the terms may not be as clear as we would like to believe.
It sounds as if you are saying you feel the label PSA 8 or PSA 9 actually means something definitive. And based on that a PSA 9 now is a real genuine PSA 9 and any PSA 9 from the past is a false untrue ingenuine PSA 9. The truth is whatever you want it to be. There are standards that PSA lists but its subjective how you fit that description to a card outside of the centering which you can just flat out measure and determine.
It all has to be taken into consideration. What is frustrating now is its tougher to just trust the label. I think people have mostly questioned this throughout the history of grading companies but you just try to evaluate the card and see if you feel it deserves to be in that holder. Is it a nice version of that grade? There have been examples recently of cards people feel are undergraded. But it happened in the past too. And you have cards that you feel are fairly graded now. Sometimes its just you got the guy who has a girl he likes who wont return his calls or texts anymore and he is thinking about it and your order comes across his desk. Then it sucks to be you. Or you get the guy who just had the girl he likes agree to go out with him. Then your order comes across his desk and all is sunlight and your minty cards may be gem minty.
Many say buy the card not the holder but they both matter a lot. If a NM card is in a PSA 5 holder noone will pay the PSA 7 price. From the buying angle you just have to decide for yourself what you are willing to pay. Then make the offer and see if its accepted. Or if its an auction you will learn if someone else places a higher value on it. You can value something at a certain price but it may mean you wont own it.
If you are selling you can take what the market will bear or decide you will only accept your price. Look at sales history, factor in everything like whether your card is one of the better or worse examples of that grade and proceed.
If (!) grading standards have changed a bit I don't think you notice it so much at the 8/9 range.
Where you see big differences is in the mid-range grades. Plenty have shown up here this year that are 4/5/6 that look like they would have been 8s a few years ago.
I think you can get much nicer looking mid-range cards out there these days. Often to the expense of whoever did the grading. Good luck in your searching.
Thank you
Mid-range that looks better. I've seen 8's that are worse.
100%
I've seen both crappy cards in newer holders and high end cards in older ones. People that are relying on the flip to guide their purchases have a lot to learn.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
That's not correct. Buy the card not the holder. There are ample PSA 9's in old holders that would receive a PSA 9 today. The issue is SOME of the 9's with old cert holders are off center or have printing defects and would most likely not receive a 9 if graded today.
Bottom line: Most of the 9's in old holders would still receive a 9 if graded today. Some would not which means you should buy the card and not the holder. I suggest you stay away from 9's with centering issues and you should be ok.
If it is an old label with a qualifier than 100% it will be graded lower since qualifiers are now factored into the grade.
I stand behind the others here when they say buy that card and not the grade...however...you can still make money buying low pop graded cards (even if the card didn't deserve the grade) because there are ALWAYS people buying low pops of great players.
If you're new to this then I wouldn't start out buying graded cards above $100 until you have a good understanding of how you want to invest your money and time.
No they are not factored in. I just got a PSA 9 OC and it wasn’t that bad OC
New label OC modifier added? Vintage or modern? I'm curious which cards are getting qualifiers. Maybe a new thread is worthy.
If you have any vintage PSA9 cards for sale at PSA6 prices, please contact me.
1968 Topps
Hello everyone Please tell me what kind of estimate can be calculated approximately on this card? The scan is high-quality, everything seems to be visible) I was hoping for 9 PSA or 9.5 Beckett. But I'm afraid to be wrong, because I don't have much experience)
Bottom right on the back will probably make it a PSA 7 or 8