Home Trading Cards & Memorabilia Forum

1993 Fleer Ultra Basketball Scoring Kings PSA10 on ebay

JolleyWrencherJolleyWrencher Posts: 596 ✭✭✭

Last year I decided I was going to try and chase the 10 card set of 93-94 fleer ultra scoring kings. I purchased 10 sealed boxes and kept my eye on auction sites.

Thanks to the incredibly tough recent grading experiences in the last year I opted to stop ripping boxes.

I want to own flawless cards. The ones on ebay are a mix of old labels and seeing the condition of the cards reminds me how much deviation there can be in grading.

The print defects on the bottom left of the Larry Johnson cars makes me want to resubmit cards to try and get a bump or submit others from this set that look better.

There is almost a highly visible flaw in all the 10s on ebay.

I think it's wise to pass on these ebay cards because I'm not chasing a grade but rather flawless cards. I likely won't buy and PSA10s unless they truly appear flawless but you can get near flawless raw cards for a fraction of the price.

Comments

  • RufussCkingstonRufussCkingston Posts: 1,449 ✭✭✭✭

    Is there a question? Are you telepathically telling us you are selling your unopened boxes? Is this a diary entry? Is this a PSA?

  • olb31olb31 Posts: 2,872 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I was confused also.

    Work hard and you will succeed!!
  • craig44craig44 Posts: 10,268 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @JolleyWrencher said:
    Last year I decided I was going to try and chase the 10 card set of 93-94 fleer ultra scoring kings. I purchased 10 sealed boxes and kept my eye on auction sites.

    Thanks to the incredibly tough recent grading experiences in the last year I opted to stop ripping boxes.

    I want to own flawless cards. The ones on ebay are a mix of old labels and seeing the condition of the cards reminds me how much deviation there can be in grading.

    The print defects on the bottom left of the Larry Johnson cars makes me want to resubmit cards to try and get a bump or submit others from this set that look better.

    There is almost a highly visible flaw in all the 10s on ebay.

    I think it's wise to pass on these ebay cards because I'm not chasing a grade but rather flawless cards. I likely won't buy and PSA10s unless they truly appear flawless but you can get near flawless raw cards for a fraction of the price.

    Keep in mind that there is no such thing as a perfect/flawless card in existence. every single card will have a flaw. you just have to look hard enough.

    George Brett, Bobby Orr and Terry Bradshaw.

  • I'm trying to understand grading all over again for the 100th time. The goal posts aren't remaining in the same place.

    No offense to the ebay seller since there is a market for these cards. https://www.ebay.com/itm/305299198046?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ZmEZY0QvQYm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ae-eOCLFR9S&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

    Check out the sellers other 10s. I like the Patrick Ewing and the Joe Dumars but I think you can find a 9 that looks just as good.

    The bottom left is killing me because I have a MJ I pulled as a kid with much less print defect than the LJ and my corners/edges are perfect. I intended on sending it in after doing a few initial submissions to learn some and get member feedback.

    I don't know what I'm doing with my unopened boxes. I grabbed a bit of Topps Bob Ross X which showed up last month and I'm overloaded with work, farming, and other aspects in life to think about it. I haven't been on this board in weeks and wanted to see if grading consistency was still a major sticking point. I got an alert for these cards and had really hoped to see gems to purchase and my disappointment led to my comments. Sorry for those who lost a few minutes of your life youll never get back.

  • EstilEstil Posts: 6,846 ✭✭✭✭

    shrugs I just someday want a set to fill in my insert binders...

    WISHLIST
    Dimes: 54S, 53P, 50P+S, 49S, 45D+S, 44S, 43D, 41S, 40D+S, 39D+S, 38D+S, 37D+S, 36S, 35D+S, all 16-34's
    Quarters: 61D, 52S, 47S, 46S, 40S, 39S, 38S, 37D+S, 36D+S, 35D, 34D, 32D+S
    74 Topps: 37,38,46,47,48,138,151,193,210,214,223,241,256,264,268,277,289,316,435,552,570,577,592,602,610,654,655
    1997 Finest silver: 115, 135, 139, 145, 310
    1995 Ultra Gold Medallion Sets: Golden Prospects, HR Kings, On-Base Leaders, Power Plus, RBI Kings, Rising Stars
  • AANVAANV Posts: 323 ✭✭✭

    @JolleyWrencher said:
    I'm trying to understand grading all over again for the 100th time. The goal posts aren't remaining in the same place.

    No offense to the ebay seller since there is a market for these cards. https://www.ebay.com/itm/305299198046?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ZmEZY0QvQYm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ae-eOCLFR9S&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

    Oof. That's an awfully white corner for a gem mint 10.

  • olb31olb31 Posts: 2,872 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Yep there are many cards that don't look like a certain grade and many cards that look better than a certain grade. Collectors/investors in my opinion want centered cards. If a 1975 nolan ryan is a 7 but looks perfectly centered it will sell and sell for a decent number. If 1975 nolan ryan is off-centered but sharp otherwise, it will probably not bring the same number as the centered one even if the off-centered has better corners, edges, etc.

    I think it starts at centering, then corners, then edges, then surface (unless there are significant print flaws). But not all grading companies see it this way.

    The johnson above is a 7 if you regraded it. It either won't sell or it will sell at a very reduced price. For that set and card the corners first, surface second, edges third and centering last (since you really can't tell the centering).

    Work hard and you will succeed!!
Sign In or Register to comment.