Someone please gimme the quick rundown on the difficult pieces in a 7070

Jacques_Loungecoque

After 30 years of predominantly silver dollars, halves, and early commems I figured what the heck, let’s do a 7070. Now, please keep in mind I have next to no experience with coppers and general numismatic experience with nickels. Please list me the types that I’m going to price struggle with over, say MS63.

Also keep in mind I’m a humble public school teacher. That means anything over like $2k takes some world class domestic embezzlement to avoid divorce. And I actually do rather still enjoy my wife even after 23 years.

Yes, yes, yes I could spend the hours and hours looking over sales figures, but I know darn well the tens of thousands of years of collective experience in here can get me the info in a few key strokes. Thanks in advance.

Baley

The classic head cent is going to be the most difficult challenge. Then the seated dollars. This is typically true no matter what the target grades. Then probably the draped bust cent and the capped bust coins in general, the larger the more expensive. It's a great album collection, probably the best choice for most raw type set collectors. Good luck and keep us posted!

hfjacinto

If you are doing the gold page, the $20 Double Eagles are expensive. If doing the regular the Classic Head and the 2 Seated Liberty Dollars are the most expensive.

This mine with the gold page (still missing most of the gold page)

https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/472475/

I have nice coins, but most are reasonable. I use the Registry to just save my coin information, I don't really play the registry game.

TomB

@Jacques_Loungecoque said:
After 30 years of predominantly silver dollars, halves, and early commems I figured what the heck, let’s do a 7070. Now, please keep in mind I have next to no experience with coppers and general numismatic experience with nickels. Please list me the types that I’m going to price struggle with over, say MS63.

Also keep in mind I’m a humble public school teacher. That means anything over like $2k takes some world class domestic embezzlement to avoid divorce. And I actually do rather still enjoy my wife even after 23 years.

Yes, yes, yes I could spend the hours and hours looking over sales figures, but I know darn well the tens of thousands of years of collective experience in here can get me the info in a few key strokes. Thanks in advance.

Given your parameters and stated desires, I would not suggest to do this set in MS63 or above. Regardless of grade range, the early copper (problem-free) and Seated Liberty dollars will be the toughest and most expensive coins. I agree with what the two members have already posted to this thread.

alaura22

@Jacques_Loungecoque said:
After 30 years of predominantly silver dollars, halves, and early commems I figured what the heck, let’s do a 7070. Now, please keep in mind I have next to no experience with coppers and general numismatic experience with nickels. Please list me the types that I’m going to price struggle with over, say MS63.

Also keep in mind I’m a humble public school teacher. That means anything over like $2k takes some world class domestic embezzlement to avoid divorce. And I actually do rather still enjoy my wife even after 23 years.

Yes, yes, yes I could spend the hours and hours looking over sales figures, but I know darn well the tens of thousands of years of collective experience in here can get me the info in a few key strokes. Thanks in advance.

I agree with what has been said above.
Would like to know How you plan on doing this set, are you going to have raw coins in an album or certified coins to compete in the PCGS registry.
That being said, I would just take a look at sets that are already completed or close to completion. Then you would be able to see which are the tough ones based on the grades others havein their set.
I have both the no gold and the gold sets ranked #10 & #9.
This set has been a joy to complete for me,
Good luck

Jacques_Loungecoque

Some great points already. Thanks for that. For some clarification, I’ll be using a literal Dansco. For the series I lack confidence in, I’ll mostly be cracking slabs. For most 10c and above coinage I’m plenty capable of buying raw when seen in hand. That doesn’t mean that I won’t crack more slabs if the prices are right, or from my existing holdings.

I do have some concerns based on what Tom B may be alluding to: price limits make a consistent quality level hard to maintain. Perhaps it can still be done if I can locate some passable sliders and go in with the full knowledge that some coins are just going to take a year or two to save up for.

I’m not in a huge rush. I want to finish it before I’m 50 so that gives me almost five years. Fortunately, this set has quite a bit of what I consider low hanging fruit. I don’t do the registry thing. It’s just not my cup of tea. I have three kids all of whom show some numismatic inclinations so someone will eventually appreciate everything when I’m gone. Hopefully some grandkids in the next 10 years to pass on the bug too as well.

Jacques_Loungecoque

@hfjacinto said:
If you are doing the gold page, the $20 Double Eagles are expensive. If doing the regular the Classic Head and the 2 Seated Liberty Dollars are the most expensive.

Yes! But I’ll add that page at a later date. I want to focus on the core album first. I shudder at the thought of getting burnout and becoming demoralized from the somewhat prohibitive cost of gold. Thanks for your insight!

winesteven

@alaura22 said:

@Jacques_Loungecoque said:
After 30 years of predominantly silver dollars, halves, and early commems I figured what the heck, let’s do a 7070. Now, please keep in mind I have next to no experience with coppers and general numismatic experience with nickels. Please list me the types that I’m going to price struggle with over, say MS63.

Also keep in mind I’m a humble public school teacher. That means anything over like $2k takes some world class domestic embezzlement to avoid divorce. And I actually do rather still enjoy my wife even after 23 years.

Yes, yes, yes I could spend the hours and hours looking over sales figures, but I know darn well the tens of thousands of years of collective experience in here can get me the info in a few key strokes. Thanks in advance.

I agree with what has been said above.
Would like to know How you plan on doing this set, are you going to have raw coins in an album or certified coins to compete in the PCGS registry.
That being said, I would just take a look at sets that are already completed or close to completion. Then you would be able to see which are the tough ones based on the grades others havein their set.
I have both the no gold and the gold sets ranked #10 & #9.
This set has been a joy to complete for me,
Good luck

I’ve seen your sets. You’ve done a FANTASTIC job that any collector would be so very proud to own.

Congratulations!

Steve

may

Three cent silvers can be tough with no damage and good eye appeal.

Applejacks

@TomB said:

@Jacques_Loungecoque said:
After 30 years of predominantly silver dollars, halves, and early commems I figured what the heck, let’s do a 7070. Now, please keep in mind I have next to no experience with coppers and general numismatic experience with nickels. Please list me the types that I’m going to price struggle with over, say MS63.

Also keep in mind I’m a humble public school teacher. That means anything over like $2k takes some world class domestic embezzlement to avoid divorce. And I actually do rather still enjoy my wife even after 23 years.

Yes, yes, yes I could spend the hours and hours looking over sales figures, but I know darn well the tens of thousands of years of collective experience in here can get me the info in a few key strokes. Thanks in advance.

Given your parameters and stated desires, I would not suggest to do this set in MS63 or above. Regardless of grade range, the early copper (problem-free) and Seated Liberty dollars will be the toughest and most expensive coins. I agree with what the two members have already posted to this thread.

Yes, all these points are well advised