PVC Would soaking in rubbing alcohol work to remove PVC and will it not come back?

TheGoonies1985

Or is acetone better? Debating between the 2. I have rubbing alcohol already at home. How long should I bath my coin in rubbing alcohol if it is a possibility? Do you rinse it off with water after?

Mr_Spud

Acetone is better

TomB

Acetone.

johnny9434

Acetone for sure

ELVIS1

Acetone.. And depending on how severe the PVC is you are going to want to repeat the process.
I bought some acetone wash bottles off of Amazon, I spent 24.00 for3 but they are on sale 3 for 18.00, and I just keep the acetone in the bottle.
https://amazon.com/dp/B08K318174?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k0_1_12&amp=&crid=2H6UKWJUKBDS4&sprefix=acitone%2Bwash&th=1

mr1931S

Acetone is the way to go for coins with PVC contamination.

TheGoonies1985

Thanks guys will order some from amazon today.

TheGoonies1985

If the coin is graded by PCGS and I do this myself and send it to PCGS to be re slabbed will it come back the same grade or simply authentic? Would it be best to have PCGS do this and if they do will they do the minor spot only or the entire coin to make sure there is none elsewhere that could be growing?

ELVIS1

If its graded by PCGS you need to send it to them. Do Not Crack it.

TheGoonies1985

@ELVIS1 said:
If its graded by PCGS you need to send it to them. Do Not Crack it.

And will they clean the entire surface that is what I would prefer just case any elsewhere not visible to the naked eye.

ELVIS1

Acetone doesn't "Clean" the coin Per Se... It will dissolve the PVC but it won't Brighten or remove toning.
I think that you should call PCGS and speak with someone who can Guide you into what you need to do.

TheGoonies1985

@ELVIS1 said:
Acetone doesn't "Clean" the coin Per Se... It will dissolve the PVC but it won't Brighten or remove toning.
I think that you should call PCGS and speak with someone who can Guide you into what you need to do.

Thanks will call them tomorrow. Best let them deal with it.

TheGoonies1985

Last question this is more OCD than anything I think. If slabs are stored together and one coin has PVC can it spread to other graded coins or is that just me overthinking?

ELVIS1

I can't answer that, but you would see it if it were to develop.

cladking

I prefer rubbing alcohol but do not use 70% solution. It must be 91% and when it evaporates too much it should be dumped because the concentration drops. It is not only safer but cheaper and usually more effective. The best solution is 2/3rds 91% isopropyl and 1/3rd acetone that seems to provide the best of both worlds. A little splash of methyl alcohol won't hurt but you must use the pure stuff and not hand sanitizer.

PVC can be removed but if it damaged the coin it will be permanent.

jmlanzaf

@PillarDollarCollector said:
Last question this is more OCD than anything I think. If slabs are stored together and one coin has PVC can it spread to other graded coins or is that just me overthinking?

The flip would have been PVC. What's on the surface is not PVC and should not be mobile.

TheGoonies1985

@cladking said:
I prefer rubbing alcohol but do not use 70% solution. It must be 91% and when it evaporates too much it should be dumped because the concentration drops. It is not only safer but cheaper and usually more effective. The best solution is 2/3rds 91% isopropyl and 1/3rd acetone that seems to provide the best of both worlds. A little splash of methyl alcohol won't hurt but you must use the pure stuff and not hand sanitizer.

PVC can be removed but if it damaged the coin it will be permanent.

Will give this a try I have 2 coins one not graded and one in a PCGS holder.

oreville

Alcohol works well on gold coins. PVC does not harm the gold surface.

TheGoonies1985

What about 99% rubbing alcohol is that to high concentration? I can't seem to find 91% on amazon. My coins are silver (.917 pure).

TheGoonies1985

For acetone see this type. Is this the type you guys use?

Also this I guess they are the same:

Sapyx

@PillarDollarCollector said:
Also this I guess they are the same:

They aren't the same. One of them says "100% acetone", the other one says "89% acetone". Unless the labels are lying to you, the 100% acetone will contain nothing else, except perhaps trace levels of denatonium benzoate (some jurisdictions require the addition of denatonium to alcohols and other industrial solvents prior to retail sale). The "89% acetone" contains... other stuff. Water, most probably, but also perhaps fragrances (many people find the smell of acetone unpleasant, so cosmetics manufacturers add fragrances to mask it) plus various oils and other chemicals to stop skin drying out.

FOr coin-cleaning solvents, there's no such thing as being "too pure". You want that first bottle, not the second one.

@PillarDollarCollector said:
Last question this is more OCD than anything I think. If slabs are stored together and one coin has PVC can it spread to other graded coins or is that just me overthinking?

PVC goo doesn't fly through the air. It is created by direct contact between the coin and the PVC plastic. It does not cross from coin to coin, unless the coins are in direct physical contact.

@PillarDollarCollector said:
Or is acetone better? Debating between the 2. I have rubbing alcohol already at home. How long should I bath my coin in rubbing alcohol if it is a possibility? Do you rinse it off with water after?

Acetone is better, but isopropanol ("rubbing alcohol") works too. So does ethanol, or for that matter gasoline would work as well. The problem with any solvent is what else is in the solvent, as noted above.

For any solvent you're thinking of using on your coins, there's a simple test of suitability: pour a good quantity of it into a ceramic or glass bowl (do NOT use plastic containers, as some solvents attack certain plastics). Allow the solvent in the bowl to dry out overnight. Check the bowl the next day, and see if there's any residue - either solid or liquid - visibly left in the bowl. If the answer is "no", then it should be OK to use on your coins.

As for "how long", I'd say "until the goo is gone". As a general rule, if acetone hasn't removed the goo in 10 minutes, any further time immersed in acetone isn't going to be of any additional benefit. Other solvents are slower, if they're going to work at all.

A water rinse is largely unnecessary - unless your solvent is impure and leaves goo or dust behind after it evaporates. Always rinse your coins in fresh acetone, and allow it to evaporate away.

When using water on coins, always use distilled or deionized water - never tap water (contains chlorine) or rain water (is slightly acidic).

Sapyx

And the usual safety warning for anyone unfamiliar with acetone (or for that matter most other solvents). It's flammable and volatile, just like gasoline, so treat it with the same caution you'd use for gasoline: use it in a well ventilated area (outdoors in the shade is optimal) and avoid smoking, sparks or other ignition sources anywhere near it.

Cougar1978

Just dip it in jewel luster get rid of the tarnish. A quick Emerson then out. Rinse throughly with water. I have dipped hundreds of coins to restore their Gem BU appearance.

Had one guy walk up to my table at show tried gaslight me his tarnished coins original. Told him none of them PQ.

PerryHall

Can we see some pics of the PCGS slabbed coin that you want to conserve? The cost of the conservation, regrading, reslabbing, and insured shipping both ways is going to be expensive. If the problem is minor, sometimes it makes more sense to just live with it.

cladking

@PillarDollarCollector said:
What about 99% rubbing alcohol is that to high concentration? I can't seem to find 91% on amazon. My coins are silver (.917 pure).

I'd be inclined to avoid it unless you know it is pure. These aren't subject to food and drug laws so 99% might mean it's as pure as they can get isopropyl easily (this used to be only about 93%) and then they mix it with 1% of almost anything such as oils. You can put a little on a clean piece of glass and see if it spots when it dries.

Acetone will work but drug stores put the 91% on sale once in a while so it's cheaper and I do prefer it.

Most things that get on coins are soluble in most solvents. Just be sure to use as pure as possible and rinse the coins after the soak. Pat dry with cotton towels and then be sure nothing is adhering to the coin. Coins are probably more susceptible to toning and tarnish after a soak so put them in an airtight or nearly airtight holder. Generally speaking if you can restore a coin to its original condition the clock starts over for it.

I prefer rinsing in hot or warm water so the coin dries as being blotted but some people advise against this. I'm not sure why but have never ad trouble to my knowledge.

TheGoonies1985

Purchased acetone via amazon should arrive this week.

cladking

"A water rinse is largely unnecessary - unless your solvent is impure and leaves goo or dust behind after it evaporates. Always rinse your coins in fresh acetone, and allow it to evaporate away."

This is probably true but I do not trust my methods enough to try it. I reuse solvents until they are visibly dirty, for instance.

If you use fresh solvent every time and don't contaminate it by putting your fingers in it then rinsing is most probably unnecessary.

cladking

"A water rinse is largely unnecessary - unless your solvent is impure and leaves goo or dust behind after it evaporates. Always rinse your coins in fresh acetone, and allow it to evaporate away."

I would not recommend using any solvents that aren't pure or that contain significant amounts of water. I've had coins turn black more than once and this can affect almost any metal but for some reason 40% half dollars seem to be the most prone to it. Every time there were were impurities and/ or excessive water in the mixture.

I've also had bad reactions in the rinse. This is always caused by excessive heat and time in the water.

DisneyFan

@cladking said:

PVC can be removed but if it damaged the coin it will be permanent.

How likely would a coin be considered damaged after the PVC haze has been removed?

cladking

@DisneyFan said:

@cladking said:

PVC can be removed but if it damaged the coin it will be permanent.

How likely would a coin be considered damaged after the PVC haze has been removed?

Depends. Sometimes you can tell the coin is pitted even before you take the crud off. Most of the time if you catch it right away it can be removed. Just about anything can be removed but sometimes what you're removing has already reacted with the metal.

350gn

Acetone and if you haven't used it before, be sure to use a glass container not plastic!

bsshog40

I never did have much luck with removing pvc with acetone. I've had better luck soaking in olive oil. But it is a long drawn out process. Months of soaking.

TheGoonies1985

Thanks

cladking

@bsshog40 said:
I never did have much luck with removing pvc with acetone. I've had better luck soaking in olive oil. But it is a long drawn out process. Months of soaking.

This is what I do when solvents don't work and it looks like the coin might be OK. It is highly effective but takes a long time and I find it very difficult to remove the oil especially from old copper. I'll often use a black locust thorn to speed it up.

Until you get down to corrosion any coin might be fine underneath layers and layers of ugly.

TheGoonies1985

@cladking said:

@bsshog40 said:
I never did have much luck with removing pvc with acetone. I've had better luck soaking in olive oil. But it is a long drawn out process. Months of soaking.

This is what I do when solvents don't work and it looks like the coin might be OK. It is highly effective but takes a long time and I find it very difficult to remove the oil especially from old copper. I'll often use a black locust thorn to speed it up.

Until you get down to corrosion any coin might be fine underneath layers and layers of ugly.

My coins are all .917 silver I do not collect copper my OCD would not allow it.

cladking

@PillarDollarCollector said:

@cladking said:

@bsshog40 said:
I never did have much luck with removing pvc with acetone. I've had better luck soaking in olive oil. But it is a long drawn out process. Months of soaking.

This is what I do when solvents don't work and it looks like the coin might be OK. It is highly effective but takes a long time and I find it very difficult to remove the oil especially from old copper. I'll often use a black locust thorn to speed it up.

Until you get down to corrosion any coin might be fine underneath layers and layers of ugly.

My coins are all .917 silver I do not collect copper my OCD would not allow it.

India? These are some great coins. If they are circs there are often easier ways to clean them.

TheGoonies1985

@cladking said:

@PillarDollarCollector said:

@cladking said:

@bsshog40 said:
I never did have much luck with removing pvc with acetone. I've had better luck soaking in olive oil. But it is a long drawn out process. Months of soaking.

This is what I do when solvents don't work and it looks like the coin might be OK. It is highly effective but takes a long time and I find it very difficult to remove the oil especially from old copper. I'll often use a black locust thorn to speed it up.

Until you get down to corrosion any coin might be fine underneath layers and layers of ugly.

My coins are all .917 silver I do not collect copper my OCD would not allow it.

India? These are some great coins. If they are circs there are often easier ways to clean them.

India would be smart to collect with the size of their population but I know nothing about their coins.

350gn

@cladking said:

@bsshog40 said:
I never did have much luck with removing pvc with acetone. I've had better luck soaking in olive oil. But it is a long drawn out process. Months of soaking.

This is what I do when solvents don't work and it looks like the coin might be OK. It is highly effective but takes a long time and I find it very difficult to remove the oil especially from old copper. I'll often use a black locust thorn to speed it up.

Until you get down to corrosion any coin might be fine underneath layers and layers of ugly.

how do you remove the olive oil?

I put some coins on wax paper thinking it would be safest since its so slick it wouldn't risk scratching then the sunlight from a window got them too warm and some of the wax transferred. Olive oil removed the wax but I'm not sure how to best remove the oil.

Barberian

@350gn said:

@cladking said:

@bsshog40 said:
I never did have much luck with removing pvc with acetone. I've had better luck soaking in olive oil. But it is a long drawn out process. Months of soaking.

This is what I do when solvents don't work and it looks like the coin might be OK. It is highly effective but takes a long time and I find it very difficult to remove the oil especially from old copper. I'll often use a black locust thorn to speed it up.

Until you get down to corrosion any coin might be fine underneath layers and layers of ugly.

how do you remove the olive oil?

I put some coins on wax paper thinking it would be safest since its so slick it wouldn't risk scratching then the sunlight from a window got them too warm and some of the wax transferred. Olive oil removed the wax but I'm not sure how to best remove the oil.

How about 100% acetone?

My understanding is olive oil is lightly acidic and can discolor copper. How about using mineral oil and let that soak for a month, and then use a fine paint brush to "pressure wave" any crud off the coin.

With PVC, soak and soak with 100% acetone.