Dual service autograph card questions..
markmac33
Posts: 50 ✭✭
What is the consensus on which service to choose? I’m thinking of getting some 86 and 87 Fleer basketball autos slabbed. Would it be best to choose the auto and card grade even though there may be some psa 3s in the batch or just get the autos graded? I have a Bird/Magic rookie autoed by all three in which the card would grade maybe psa 3. For high end cards like this is it better to just authenticate the card and grade the auto? Thanks.
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Unfortunately, I don't think there is a real consensus on this topic. I am firmly in the camp of dual grading the card and the auto whenever possible. I recently sent in a Bird/Magic/Erving card and got a 4/10 card/auto grade. I would rather have a card that is dual graded and has a low number grade than one that is labeled only as Authentic.
To each their own.
This is my preference.
As has been said there’s no consensus. Personally I don’t like auto grades. I always ask for “authentic” on the auto part of the label. I do usually want a card grade, but that has its limits too. You gave the example of a 1987 PSA 3. There’s no way I’d want that label in my collection, but that’s just a personal preference.
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#1 Gino Cappelletti master set
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Also collecting Andre Tippett, Patriots Greats' RCs, Dwight Evans, 1964 Venezuelan Topps, 1974 Topps Red Sox
I agree there is no consensus or right answer here.
I personally love dual graded cards. I only try to get the autograph graded though if I think there's a chance at a 10. For the card itself, if the grade will be low, I'll opt for the Authentic card grade. On a vintage card though, I'd be more flexible. The lower grades are more acceptable there, so I'd probably just get both grades.
I personally don't like autograph grades. As long as I know it's authentic, I can see with my own 2 eyes whether it's bold or not. With card grading, it's different. There is a wide range of conditions and many nuances that make a numerical grade necessary. But for signatures? What's the difference between a 7 or 8? I have never seen an autograph grade lower than a 6, I think. What would be the difference in an autograph grade of 3 and a grade of 5? I just don't see why it's necessary.
Shane
I've always wondered but never figured out - can you sub a card for dual service (card and auto grading) - but if the auto doesn't meet minimum grade of 10 have the auto graded simply as authentic? If an auto doesn't grade as 10 I would rather it just say authentic. I don't see a way to do that on the submission form.
not sure if there's a min grade option on dual auto, but you could request it in the submission notes. I would prefer an authentic grade on an auto unless I was sure it was gonna be a 10, might be safer just to go that route.
myslabs.to/smzcards
If you ever want to sell, the card grade is imperative. This would be my second and last choice.
Agree with you. There isn't a minimum grade option on dual auto and I didn't know if I put it in the submission notes if they would follow the request.
I have 48 cards that have been PSA autograph graded as 'Authentic' with the label showing the player name, but the cards are simply listed as 'Trading Card'. If I resubmitted them to get the card graded, with the resulting card name/set listed, would they keep the existing auto authentication? If so, would the resubmit be the now $19 value service level?
I had a card recently come back with a PSA 9 auto grade (I forgot to only select authentic for it, since the auto was slightly streaky and ran to the edge). oh well. it was a pre 1998 so It was required to send dual service.
myslabs.to/smzcards