A newbie, looking for opinions on a series of coins
Hello, I am a numismatic newbie, a true neophyte. I have been working on, for me - a large collection of coins from three different people. I have been learning, and learning, and learning from PCGS videos, other forum discussions, VAM World discussions, and have done my best using Photograde, etc... I have weeded out most of the coins as being nothing important. However, I am looking for opinions on the following coins as to you opinions on grading (which I have found to change a LOT downward in my neophyte attempts at grading, when I when I photograph them. I have used 5X, 10X, 17.5X and 30X loops, but when I see these coins in the photographs from 2.2 - about 3.5X, I see a lot more issues, and need for downgrading. I was very surprised at this effect. Anyway, as I take these photos I will post them for both constructive positive and negative criticism. I will start with three pennies, that were found in two of the coin accumulation books. I have no expectation that I am any good at this yet, or may ever been like any of you, but I am damn well trying very hard to understand and figure things out so I have some clue. My goal is to protect the clients, and then help them sell their collection for the most possible realistically. To make things simple, I have a 25 year background dealing with art, antiques and antiquities, and have been credential though the International Society of Appraisers (ISA), and specialize in fine Asian and Western art, antiques and antiquities, and understand the complexities of entering into a new area, in this case numismatics. So far in the first two posts I have done, I have replied to every comment I have been given. Thank you everyone for your input, Greg.
Comments
The first three coins. I am including images with two different lighting types, if one is better than the other overall, let me know, and I will eliminate the other. I find the darker images to be better... Thank you.
1) a 1914-S Lincoln 1C, which is almost entirely missing it's last "4" in 1914, most of the "1" in 14, and the "S." The "ONE" on the back, as well as the "E Plurbus Unum" also appear to be weakly stamped. I have not identified this error, and thus have no idea if it is important, not important, of just worn off. I have graded this to, based on 5X (not the photos, which make it look worse to me, so I am struggling with how to understand this) as a Brown, VF 25 - VF 30, PCGS# 2474.
2) a 1922-D Lincoln 1C, with a weak "D" and, but not sure if I am seeing this correctly. I have graded this to be Brown, AG03 - G06, PCGS# 2537/3285 (no D).
3) A 1964 Lincoln 1C, but there is a HUGE difference between in value if it is a regular strike, or an SMS. How do you know if it is an SMS out of it's original set, or simply a regular strike? I have graded this as a Red or Red-Brown, Type 3, MS 65 - MS 66 , PCGS# 2889/2890.
Excuse me, I did a bulk upload of the images, and they are not in the right order. Let me try again loading them individually.
Next three, Morgan Dollars: 1) 1881-O, PCGS# 7128, my 5X grade MS 63 – MS 66. 2) 1898-O, PCGS# 7255, MS 66 – MS 67. 3) 1921 (best of 6 pieces), PCGS# PL 7297/MS8296, MS 64 – MS 66.
A 1972-D Eisenhower Dollar, PCGS# 7410, non-cameo, MS 66 – MS 67.
There are two clear plastic rolls (94 coins in total, 43 in one roll, 51 in the other) of 1964-D, “uncirculated,” Roosevelt 10C, only 5 of the first roll are FB, I will only post images one of the “best” of the FB, and one of the worst Non-FB. Non-FB/FB PCGS#s 5129/85129, FB MS 66+ - 69, non-FB MS 65 – 67+.
One clear plastic roll of 50, 1963-D, Red, Lincoln Modern 1C, “uncirculated.” Again, only one of the best and worst of this roll have been picked to image. PCGS# 2887, best MS 66 – 67+.
Four clear plastic rolls (200 coins in total), 1964-D, Red, Lincoln 1C, “uncirculated.” Only one of the best and worst imaged. PCGS# 2893, MS 66 – MS 67+.
None of the so called SMS coins were ever released in any way to the public. All came from one source and have been slabbed, so there is no chance of getting one unless you buy one already slabbed.
@Icluter, Thank you for that comment - there is SO much to learn! Sincerely, Greg.
@browntrout I commend you on your presentation. Happy holidays. Peace Roy
BST: endeavor1967, synchr, kliao, Outhaul, Donttellthewife, U1Chicago, ajaan, mCarney1173, SurfinHi, MWallace, Sandman70gt, mustanggt, Pittstate03, Lazybones, Walkerguy21D, coinandcurrency242 , thebigeng, Collectorcoins, JimTyler, USMarine6, Elkevvo, Coll3ctor, Yorkshireman, CUKevin, ranshdow, CoinHunter4, bennybravo, Centsearcher, braddick, Windycity, ZoidMeister, mirabela, JJM, RichURich, Bullsitter, jmski52, LukeMarshall, coinsarefun, MichaelDixon, NickPatton, ProfLiz, Twobitcollector,Jesbroken oih82w8, DCW
@Namvet69, thank you for your compliment, that is good to hear. I was concerned about the quality/what is needed by numismatists, to see these coins accurately/correctly. Happy Holidays to you as well, Greg.
Okay, so, I am not sure if I should try to post in the buy & sell US coins area, but it looks like I need 100 posts before I can even start a new topic form what the notice says about that page. So, I will start here. I understood before I went in to the Dealer yesterday, that they would use the GreySheet/whole sale pricing to make offers from, which he did exactly that. Is that the general best pricing to expect, without piecemeal selling off a collection, which for me is large, of 600 - 800 total pieces for two customers? I know I can use coin start of the unimportant, as he put it, "gas money" coins. He also thought there were no coins to send in for grading, as you have all indicated as well. I will post this in one of the other chains I started too, thank you all. Sincerely, Greg.
Oh, and am I missing an intelligent coin selling option and/or step? Greg.
I have learned that I have a better way, more clear and realistic way to take my photos, thanks to nwcoast! So, I will retake everything again, and see if there is any change in opinions! If not, that is okay, if so, then I am glad I did not miss something! Thank you nwcoast!
Okay, so I am pretty new here myself but I thought I would share some thoughts. Take the 1963-D cent, are you certain that the best coin is a MS 66-67+? That’s a pretty lofty grade for that coin. I checked Heritage and it’s been several years since that date/grade has crossed the auction block.
If it were me, I believe I would open an account at Heritage and maybe Stacks, and pull up past lots and see what the coins looked like. Then start comparing what I have to these and see if indeed they compare.
Just my two cents and I only collect gold. Haha- Don’t know how I got in this post, perhaps it’s because I can’t sleep tonight!