upcharge confusion
olb31
Posts: 3,352 ✭✭✭✭✭
i am getting ready to do the $18 special declared value $199 and under. the most i paid for any of the cards is about $100 with an average of around $30. for example, i will be submitting several 1973 cards of mays, clemente and aaron. some have a shot at an 8. right now a mays 8 sales for $400 - $500, if one graded a nine it would be worth $2,000. however there is no way i can put a psa 9 declared value on a raw 1973 card.
so can someone sum it for me. is psa going to nitpick every 1973 clemente, aaron and mays that grade 7 or higher? i've never had to do this before and ive been grading since 2007. i was never up charged and ive got some decent cards,
thanks
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I doubt it. They only thing I'd watch out for is lower grading than expected
I am basing my declared value upon either what it cost me, or one grade lower what I think it would grade. I have some close ones as well, just hoping for the best grade.
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Greg Maddux #1 Master SetGreg Maddux #2 Basic Set
Not sure- but i thought the declared value was what the card is worth now in the
raw state it is in now....Not what grade it may be when its graded.
Avoid the stress of declared value and put the declared value at the max for each item? A few extra $$ for insurance should something happen to the items and "IF" the items grade higher increasing the value, PSA "might" reach out to you for an upcharge.
Thanks,
David (LD_Ferg)
1985 Topps Football (starting in psa 8) - #9 - started 05/21/06
The declared value seems to me to mostly be used for insurance purposes. You should just put $199 on everything. Just because it's a silly question. None of their customers really understand the function of the number.
When they bill you or upcharge you, they don't use the declared value number you wrote down at all.
I never even thought to make it easy on myself and just use the max number for the submission tier for each item
I’m doing that moving forward
See, I'm not saying F-PSA here.
I subscribed to PSA in 2010 because I had a small stack of stuff that I wanted to submit. I got 15 sub vouchers with my subscription. I never sent in the cards because the form was asking me stuff that I didn't know how to answer. Then I put the whole thing on the back burner. Then my subscription lapsed and my vouchers expired. So I ended up paying PSA for some physical copies of their price guide, that I never read, and a coffee table book that I flipped through once.
Card value doesn't have anything to do with the job I'm paying them to do when I submit a card.
Straight from the PSA site:
"The Declared Value is your estimate of the value of the item after it has been assigned a grade by PSA."
I always just put the max declared value for whatever service level I'm using.
Yet, I have no idea what they're going to grade my card. That's what I'm paying them to tell me. This line of thinking is essentially Payola. They're asking me to tell them what grade it is. And pay them to print the number on the label of their 50 cent holder. I don't think they ever downcharge. That explanation also doesn't say anything about what the information is used for.
Correct, it should be the declared value of the card prior to grading.
It probably shouldn't be on the form at all.
If I buy a card for X dollars. Then I put X dollars on the form. Then my card gets lost. But, when I look for replacements, I can't buy another one for X dollars.
If it's on the form they should say what they're using the number for.
Hah, if that was the case, the majority of cards, which are ultra modern would all be declared at 1 or 2 bucks!
I always set my declared value at PSA 9 value.
for 1973, I would go with a declared value of PSA 7. Like one of the above stated, they will up-charge you if needed.
It's really for insurance purposes only..if you try and sub a 54 Aaron at $199 service level, they will kick it back but they aren't going to reject a raw 73 Aaron even if the PSA 9 value is way above that maximum. A post-grading upcharge email is an issue every submitter hopes to get!
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
I always base the declared value on one grade less than my pre-grading estimate. So if I think a card will grade a PSA 8, my declared value would be the current value of a PSA 7.
Robb
maddux69, ldferg, grote15 and fergie23 are right on point. Stop overthinking it.
Looks like PSA achieved what they hoped to do. Confuse people to pay generously more for tiers because they don't understand them and because they have a desire for their cards to grade well. Psychology 101...
I have no issues with upcharges because it means more money in may hands at the end of the day. Submitted a small kaboom sub in March (50.00 per card) and was upcharged for the two cards below. Vlad was 150.00 and Pulisic was 300.00.
4 1 64379896 GEM MINT 10 2018 Panini Kaboom! VG Vladimir Guerrero Jr. Card
5 1 64379897 GEM MINT 10 2018 Panini Kaboom! Cpu Christian Pulisic Card
o> @GoDodgersFan said:
I saw that on anther thread and it's what got me thinking. I've graded thousands of cards and never really had to deal with it. Not once and I some decent cards. Maybe it depends on what you are listing. The average card I just submitted cost around $40. Nothing flashy, just nice mid 70's cards. Hoping for a lot of 8's. If I get some 7's that's ok, maybe get lucky and get a 9 or two.