Coin Photography question for Nikon users?
Broadstruck
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I've been using a Nikon D200 DLSR body since 2009.
The D200 still works fine and does the job.
For coin photography only is there anything newer out there Nikon wise I should consider upgrading to?
If so why and which body number?
Thanks in advance and I won't be able to respond till tonight as I will not have internet access till then.
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For coin photography I upgraded to D7000 several years ago, which is another older model but great for coins. The major advantage I found is that the 7000 (and a lot of the more recent Nikons) can meter in manual with the older, non-auto focus macro lenses, like the 105mm and 200mm. With the D100 I formerly used, metering was trial and error. Not familiar with the D200 but the 7000 is a DX camera, which adds 50 percent to focal length of whatever lens you use.
One very expensive new option is the Z6II which has built in focus bracketing, or in Nikon language focus shifting. This allows for some really great in-focus shots of high relief coins or medals, model cars, still life, etc.
Of course you can do focus stacking and take a bunch of photos with small manual focus changes and combine them with software using lower cost cameras.
The Nikon Z 6II can also now tether with Control My Nikon software so you can see what you are doing on the computer screen, which did not always work well with some Nikon cameras.
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From where you are at, the main upgrade you can make will be full-frame vs crop sensor. The caveat is with your crop sensor you're looking at a magnification factor of 1.5x. If you have a 105mm macro, for example, it effectively works as a 150mm. With full-frame, to shoot smaller coins, you'll want a 180mm if not 200mm lens so you don't have to use a telephoto extender and lose sharpness, defeating the purpse of full-frame. You can then switch between the larger and smaller macro lens depending on your subject (e.g. slab shots, dollars and maybe halves with the 105mm and smaller coins with the 180 or 200mm). With the crop sensor, you are focusing the working area (that is to say the area you see in the viewfinder) onto less surface area on the sensor so you get lower sharpness and resolution. The magnification factor further decreases your sharpness. If you can send that same working area onto more surface area on the full-frame sensor, you get more clarity on the image, add to the fact you're shooting 1:1 instead of 1.5:1 and it further improves the clarity, particularly when zooming the image in full size. This is all built on the premise that when shooting a coin, you fill as much of the viewfinder with the coin as possible rather than leaving "whitespace".
I've had a D90 since 2009. It is only slightly better than the D200 and has served me quite well after much trial and error. I have long been wanting to upgrade but not break the bank. I was looking on Facebook marketplace and found a D610 with five nice lenses being sold by a real estate agent for an absolute steal so I pulled the trigger. with my Sigma 105mm lens and a very brief window to mess around (two lights instead of my usual four) I was able to get clear images of a half dollar that will look much better with the proper light setup. Now I'm on the quest to get a nice used 200mm macro for smaller coins, until then I'll just stick to shooting them with the D90.
Regarding shooting software, there is a free one called digicamcontrol that works very well. You just need to connect the camera to the computer with a USB cable. A quick search shows this software may not work with the D200 but it works with most cameras that have a live view feature (display the viewfinder on the LCD). http://digicamcontrol.com/cameras Combine this with an external power supply and you can shoot more coins in less time due to live preview on the computer, where you can adjust lighting optimally per coin, adjust the exposure and aperture along with just about every other setting, all without touching the camera.
I’m on my third DSLR. D70, then D90, now D850. The latest upgrade was wanting a new body for non-coin things, and my D90 was on its way out with a shutter way past its lifespan. In truth if the camera works for coins, other than getting a bigger original, I doubt you’ll see much great improvement with a new body. But if you have other interests that may benefit or the camera is on its last legs, there have been huge advancements since the D200 was new.
It's a bit of a loaded question as it depends on several things like:
So to give you an idea, I use a Nikon Z6 with the 105 macro VR on the FTZ adapter. It's a great setup and very flexible and I use it for other photography. If you're looking for just a modest boost but light and easy maybe the Nikon Z50 with either an adapted lens (using the FTZ) or the new 105 Z macro lens.
If you want to stick with DSLR then any modern one would be fine. Maybe something like the D5600 since you can articulate the display which makes a lot of things easier if you're not planning on tethering.
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keep the new mirrorless models in mind.
What ever you choose you will probably keep the Nikon since you have the lens but, I would junk the Nikon and go with the Cannon D5 MIV. One thing your Nikon being a APS-C type camera no comparison when it comes to up-close photography. I also had a APS-C senson and still have it a Cannon T6i.
Glad I made the change to the 5D love snapping coin pictures now. The full frame is so much different. Good luck on your venture to upgrade go for the full frame!
Sensor comparison
The size of the sensor inside a digital camera is one of the key determinants of image quality. A large sensor will tend to have larger individual pixels that provide better low-light sensitivity, wider dynamic range, and richer color-depth than smaller pixel-units in a sensor of the same technological generation. Furthermore, a large sensor camera will give the photographer more possibilities to use shallow depth-of-field in order to isolate a subject from the background. On the downside, larger sensors tend to be associated with larger, more expensive camera bodies and lenses.
With 30.1MP, the 5D Mark IV offers a higher resolution than the D200 (10MP), but the 5D Mark IV has smaller individual pixels (pixel pitch of 5.36μm versus 6.11μm for the D200). However, the 5D Mark IV is a much more recent model (by 10 years and 9 months) than the D200, and its sensor will have benefitted from technological advances during this time that enhance the light gathering capacity of its pixels.
The resolution advantage of the Canon 5D Mark IV implies greater flexibility for cropping images or the possibility to print larger pictures. The maximum print size of the 5D Mark IV for good quality output (200 dots per inch) amounts to 33.6 x 22.4 inches or 85.3 x 56.9 cm, for very good quality (250 dpi) 26.9 x 17.9 inches or 68.3 x 45.5 cm, and for excellent quality (300 dpi) 22.4 x 14.9 inches or 56.9 x 37.9 cm. The corresponding values for the Nikon D200 are 19.4 x 13 inches or 49.2 x 32.9 cm for good quality, 15.5 x 10.4 inches or 39.3 x 26.3 cm for very good quality, and 12.9 x 8.6 inches or 32.8 x 21.9 cm for excellent quality prints.
The 5D Mark IV has on-sensor phase detect pixels, which results in fast and reliable autofocus acquisition even during live view operation.
The Canon EOS 5D Mark IV has a native sensitivity range from ISO 100 to ISO 32000, which can be extended to ISO 50-102400. The corresponding ISO settings for the Nikon D200 are ISO 100 to ISO 1600, with the possibility to increase the ISO range to 100-3200.
Of the two cameras under consideration, the Canon 5D Mark IV features a full frame sensor and the Nikon D200 an APS-C entry level sensor. The sensor area in the D200 is 57 percent smaller. As a result of these sensor size differences, the cameras have a format factor of, respectively, 1.0 and 1.5. Both cameras have a native aspect ratio (sensor width to sensor height) of 3:2.
Here is a comparison of the T6i and D5MIV
Here we are comparing T6i and 5D MIV, two DSLR cameras by Canon. Canon EOS Rebel T6i is a Entry-Level DSLR class camera and Canon EOS 5D Mark IV is a Advanced DSLR class camera. 24MP - APS-C CMOS Sensor vs 30MP - Full frame CMOS Sensor
Back to the Nikon
Body comparison
The side-by-side display below illustrates the physical size and weight of the Canon 5D Mark IV and the Nikon D200. The two cameras are presented according to their relative size. Three consecutive views from the front, the top, and the rear side are shown. All width, height and depth measures are rounded to the nearest millimeter.
If the front view area (width x height) of the cameras is taken as an aggregate measure of their size, the Nikon D200 is notably smaller (5 percent) than the Canon 5D Mark IV. However, the D200 is slightly heavier (3 percent) than the 5D Mark IV. In this context, it is worth noting that both cameras are splash and dust-proof and can, hence, be used in inclement weather conditions or harsh environments.
Concerning battery life, the 5D Mark IV gets 900 shots out of its LP-E6N battery, while the D200 can take 400 images on a single charge of its EN-EL3e power pack.
Honestly, I’d rather go with an old Nikon D800 than switch to Canon just for coin pics.
The full frame sensor is nice but also not really necessary if just for coin photography, IMO. And if the primary output is web or smaller size outputs then it’s even less helpful overall.
Good thing on mine the lens 90% were interchangable. once I found out my 1st camera was NOT a full frame I simply wanted the best regardless if its only for coins later if I wanted to branch out well I had the equipment. I wished they would of told me my T6i was not the best out there before I bought it but now Ihave both. Not sure if the Nikon lens are interchangable or not if you upgrade to full frame?
Yea, Nikon has always been pretty good about mount compatibility. If someone has a crop sized lens it’ll work in a full frame Nikon but you can either auto crop the image to be the same as a crop sensor or have the vignette or the lens.
The Canon sensors were a bit behind the curve in dynamic range for a long time and you get at least a one stop penalty with APS from 35mm. For coins it really doesn’t matter but a lower ISO and more dynamic range can make a huge difference in some images. Something like the Nikon D850 et al with native ISO 64 and a deep image well make for great images where you need that.
Am just chipping in with my two cents here.
I have the Nikon D3100, Sony α6000 Mirrorless Digital Camera (24.3 MP SLR) and the One Plus 7 cell phone with triple sensor primary camera yada yada.
Have seen great pics being taken by others with all the above mentioned gizmos but I suck at it BIG time, plain and simple.
Perhaps it is time for me to take a lesson in photography
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/u-s-coins/quarters/PCGS-2020-quarter-quest/album/247091
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take a picture of your setup with one of your many options, start a thread. we can help with the rest.
must be 1000+ threads on this forum about numismotography!
one truth i learned after months of struggling is, just how easy it is to image MOST coins and get quality pics. you can really do them assembly line once you get your bearings.
Thanks Everyone!
As there's a lot of great advice that's been mentioned.
I'll have to do some homework as I'm not familiar with newer models mentioned, as I stopped following after the the D300S and D700 was released.
If you go on Yahoo and type in the camera you want to compare with a "VS" and your model you will come up with great indepth comparisons which really help you make a good final comparison.
That was how I pulled up your camera vs mine and that was how I initially ended up buying mine using that same comparison. Lots of pretty pictures too!
I just "upgraded" my D7000 to a Nikon F6 film camera. Some of my best shots ever were with my Nikon FE with Kodachrome25 film. I hope to shoot a roll of Fuji Velvia 50 on some of my RAW toners and also on some slabbed coins to see if the color is significantly better. Will post when available.
OINK
No matter what camera or lens you use, you need to consider lighting. Here is an inexpensive solution that works great and is adjustable.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T8FBZC2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Here is a photo I took with it….my Canon 5D mkIV, canon 100mm macro lens
With all due respect, that’s not an apples to apples comparison. Switching companies can be expensive in terms of glass you already own, and the comparison you showed is really a comparison not only between two models or brands, but between sensor sizes and the advances of many generations of cameras. Yes, the Canon is a better camera, but for reasons well beyond the Canon/Nikon debate.
Thanks for an interesting topic. I shudder to think of all the various Nikon cameras I have acquired over the years since purchasing a Nikomat (Nikorrmat in the U.S.) in Japan back in the late 1960s. The only one I don't still have is that first one that was stolen at a hotel when I was working as a tour guide.
It has also been of interest to learn there are so many others here who share the Nikon experience.
FWIW, this is my latest, a D750, which was prompted by wanting to have a full frame digital Nikon. As noted above, it is probably the "other uses" rather than coin photography that come into focus when deciding to move up - and of course also as noted above, once having invested in a battery of one maker's lenses there is little incentive to jump brands.
As pictured, the Nikon D750 is mounted on a tripod with a telephoto lens which captured the Black Helicopter swooping down to check me out preparatory to Air Force One entering the air space.
And the eventual shots of Air Force One:
(Of historical note, the snow capped peak faintly visible at the far right of my photo below was known as Mt. McKinley as Air Force One arrived. It was renamed Denali concurrent with the Presidential visit.
As I was photographing Air Force One, the President was peering out the window taking a photo himself of Mt. McKinley to commemorate the name change.)
Headed back to Air Force One in "The Beast."
I would not want to be a Secret Service agent…my eyes would go crazy looking at all the people around the President!
Same for those guys in the Black Helicopters. I can see why they had to swoop down to make sure it was only a camera mounted to my tripod.
Well asctually at this point I was refering Nikon vs Nikon for the OP. Just to clairify not sure about if Cannon is the better camera. I did find a Nikon lens I own and use it on my Cannon set up but I do not think I ever really shot any pics with it. Here are a few pics of that set up.
The only thing I do is image coins. I have 2 lenses that if abandoned I would have to replace at $3K, so I am sticking with my D90 until it dies, then just upgrade to the newest Nikon replacement when I need to........... The D90 does its job, the lenses are the key along with the lighting and the PS software package. In terms of enhancements I have a focus rail and a magnifying lens so I am always in focus, underpixeled or not. As long as the new body can work my my 2 lens' then I am good.