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Opinion Requested: Maximizing value for a PSA/DNA sub
SpinFadeSplash23
Posts: 909 ✭✭✭
I have a full 1986/87 Basketball Fleer PSA/DNA set, with stickers, that I'd like to get reholdered with the new PSA cases. What submission tier is the best option to maximize long-term value?
Thanks in advance.
Joe
IG: goatcollectibles23
The biggest lesson I've learned in this hobby, and in life, is that if you have a strong conviction, you owe it to yourself to see it through. Don't sell yourself, or your investments, short. Unless the facts change. Then sell it all.
IG: goatcollectibles23
The biggest lesson I've learned in this hobby, and in life, is that if you have a strong conviction, you owe it to yourself to see it through. Don't sell yourself, or your investments, short. Unless the facts change. Then sell it all.
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are they in blue flips? is the auto graded or just the card?
Whole set is blue, except for the Jordans. No auto grade, just authenticated. Card not graded either.
IG: goatcollectibles23
The biggest lesson I've learned in this hobby, and in life, is that if you have a strong conviction, you owe it to yourself to see it through. Don't sell yourself, or your investments, short. Unless the facts change. Then sell it all.
ok, im gonna give you my maximization opinion. i have a ton of high grade rare signed rcs/items.
my personal opinion is auto grades are stupid. when i was procuring my cards, i wasnt worried about auto grades at all. still dont really BUT i have noticed that a collecting niche out there, whether they are solely autograph experts, historians or what have you, that do appreciate and some who ONLY want an auto 10. me, i prefer a high grade, centered card that has just been autographed period. but thats just me and how most signed card collectors operate. but times have/are changing. with all that being said, first thimg is first is to definitely get them outta the blue holders. and since you plan on doing that, i would (and cant believe im saying it) would get both the card and the auto graded. definitely the card, bc if you dont, they will just label it as a “trading card”. even if its a real 87 fleer card. “trading card” basically alludes that it could be a reprint. and you obviously dont want that. but since youre shipping your cards off and need to get them outta those blue holders anyways, you might as well spend the few extra bucks and again, i cant believe im saying this, would go ahead and get the auto graded as well.
my signed one obtained a while back 😉
If you are looking to maximize value have the cards graded and have the autos graded if they look like they will grade 9 or 10. Registry set collectors will want the card condition graded. Auto grades of 8 or lower will not help value and could hurt it, depending on the buyer and grade. Would suggest leaving the auto grade AUTH on any that don't look like they will grade at least a 9 with a shot at hitting a 10.
Thank you for your great insights. You are an asset to this forum.
IG: goatcollectibles23
The biggest lesson I've learned in this hobby, and in life, is that if you have a strong conviction, you owe it to yourself to see it through. Don't sell yourself, or your investments, short. Unless the facts change. Then sell it all.
Thank you.
IG: goatcollectibles23
The biggest lesson I've learned in this hobby, and in life, is that if you have a strong conviction, you owe it to yourself to see it through. Don't sell yourself, or your investments, short. Unless the facts change. Then sell it all.