What is the safest way to submit a valuable card to PSA?
Charlie226
Posts: 20 ✭
I've read horror stories. I am in NY and want to get a card rated.. could be worth a significant amount. Are there any safe ways? Walk in centers? PSA local rating centers?
Best Answers
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jimq
Posts: 274 ✭✭✭
Can you take it in hand to the National and submit there? You would be physically handing it to someone from PSA and when it's done they hand it to you. Costs you a few days at the National but you wouldn't have to worry about shipping either direction.
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grote15
Posts: 29,693 ✭✭✭✭✭
@burghman said:
PSA takes cards at the National in Chicago starting tomorrow - various levels, from same day to “we’ll get it back to you by Sunday”. https://www.psacard.com/nationalThis. No shipping required.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.1 -
RufussCkingston
Posts: 1,643 ✭✭✭✭✭
@Charlie226 said:
The one I posted, Trainer, on the PSA site, shows a 10 auctioning for $58,000..a 9 at $7,000. Is that crazyQue the price is right losers music! Your card has a RED drop-shadow on the R symbol. And I assume it is a glossy front.
You need to look at this one here: https://www.psacard.com/auctionprices/tcg-cards/1998-pokemon-japanese-promo-corocoro-comics/computer-error-glossy/values/866490
Selling for just a tad less!
https://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/Computer_Error_(Wizards_Promo_16)
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Answers
Could you post a photo or description of the card? With that we can assist.
HOF SIGNED FOOTBALL RCS
It is a Pokemon card, likely a PSA #10 1999 Shadowless Charizard, perfect centered, never played, stored in hard case since 1999 in a dark box. The only way I can get maximum value is having. PSA rating but I would never mail it. I would like to know if PSA takes walk in's and how long it takes.
Yes, I would fly out from NY. I think it'd be worth it and if not I can always sée a good friend. If I hand off how long does it take
Where is the National? That's coming up right?
you can hand deliver it to their Woodbridge NJ office as far as I know (maybe by appointment) but they will then be responsible for its shipping to CA for grading. either way, its gonna spend time in the mail to or from them. even if you drop it off, it will need to be shipped back to you.
myslabs.to/smzcards
PSA takes cards at the National in Chicago starting tomorrow - various levels, from same day to “we’ll get it back to you by Sunday”. https://www.psacard.com/national
Jim
Insure it! Use a card saver 1 with soft inner sleeve. Package it well. Use the packing guidelines. I've done this Soo many yrs. It's really the best way. Out of 20 plus yrs... I never had one problem except with a different company. I wouldn't lie to you man! I was like that with a valuable card. But you just send it .. and hope for the best! When you package it... Make sure it doesn't MOVE around inside! 👍
If this is a 10, what kind of value are we talking? I have no idea about Pokemon values.
Insure it for what? OP isn't going to have a receipt for the current value, maybe $1.99 7-11 receipt for the purchased booster pack! OP would have to get collectinsure, and then would have to do a scheduled item if he wants it insured for over $25k.
OP, you'd need to email info@psacard.com to see if they would let you walk it in (to NJ or CA) Generally only VERY high value cards get to walk-in to CA location since COVID and the backlog. I'd imagine they would want to see pics of the card before granting you an appt. What you think is a sure PSA 10, might really be a 7 or worse since you are a newbie.
OP, read this page and make your travel plans..... https://www.psacard.com/national
You are right. But that's good advice nonetheless. I just can't see anyone trusting a courier service to deliver something that COULD, be worth something. Think I'll give it a try but chances are they won't even pick up the phone.
If it's a 10? The price chart says $120,000.
Like requested earlier, if you show some pics, we will give some ideas if it may or may not be close to a 10. These guys around here are very good at that, and some are experts on Pokemon cards.
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Successful transactions on the BST boards with rtimmer, coincoins, gerard, tincup, tjm965, MMR, mission16, dirtygoldman, AUandAG, deadmunny, thedutymon, leadoff4, Kid4HOF03, BRI2327, colebear, mcholke, rpcolettrane, rockdjrw, publius, quik, kalinefan, Allen, JackWESQ, CON40, Griffeyfan2430, blue227, Tiggs2012, ndleo, CDsNuts, ve3rules, doh, MurphDawg, tennessebanker, and gene1978.
That's pocket change to some people.
Just ship it. People do it all the time.
You can insure it! I've done it plenty! If you believe you have something of value.... Yes you can!!!!
It might look nice, but nothing is ever 'likely a PSA 10.' Grading standards are tough and you might be missing something if you aren't familiar with third party grading.
correct. even if ripped straight from a pack back in 99 and immediately stored in ft knox does not equate to a 10, but even a 9 is a nice pay day. theres a flight leaving outta la guardia to chicago every 45 mins. jump on a flight and go get it done today. then fly back sunday and pick it up. will cost you $250 in grading fees.
Two Charizard cards, one Shadowless.
shadowless is top one, correct? lets see the back…
not well versed on pokemon intricacies, but guessing a 6 or a 7. i know thats not what ya want to hear, but it does have some issues. just wanna make sure you dont oversub and pay a higher fee than need be.
I had spotted those. Except for the Circular mark. I see you've been there before. Appreciate your sharing your knowledge...see anything with the other?
many a times. 😉
for the record, ive never graded a pokemon card. i have a stack that was my lil sisters that are ready to go once psa opens back up the lower levels. she even had a few booster packs that she never opened. anyways, in doing my preliminary research, psa takes the back condition much more seriously than they do w sports cards. from centering to chips or paint removed from the blue border to scratches and everything in between.
the bottom card seems to be in much better shape in my opinion. dont forget to look at the holo portion. seems like they are easily susceptible to scratches. similar to the holograms on the back of ‘89ud griffeys, if you know what i mean. but from the pics and what i can tell, most likely an 8 with a shot at a 9. but again, this is coming from a ton of history grading sports cards. even landed a couple fortnite black knight holo 10s. still no pokemon on the books yet.
So I guess I'm not paying off my mortgage this month. Damn. Maybe next month. Well learning is always a good thing I need to look more closely.
i tend to under quote. that way you dont think youve got it made and then go buy that new range rover first thinking its money in the bank! 😉.
but you never know!
I think your looking at 7 at best on the shadowless. The top left card is the reason. I've seen sharper cards fail to land 8's this year.
It's the singer not the song - Peter Townshend (1972)
Yeah...you are right. That's why 10s are so rare, and $$$$. I'm going to look at my collection with a better eye for those details now. What would you say for the other Charizard?
Umm, yeah, just mail it in.... Nothing to see here... unfortunately. For PSA, that's probably a 6 at best with the chewy top left corner, front edging and all the marks, plus the surface looks to have scratches (though it is hard to tell with the penny sleeve).
I'd sub it Express at CGC for like $60. I don't think you are going to get the value at a $200 sub cost with PSA.
I would say 5 for shadowless, 6 for unlimited
In order for a card to be a 10, you need to scan the card with a 10x magnifying loupe and the card should be almost perfect under that magnification. Like others have said, most cards aren't a 10 coming straight of the pack. You also have some centering issues that would probably not get a 10 if the rest of the card was perfect.
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Successful transactions on the BST boards with rtimmer, coincoins, gerard, tincup, tjm965, MMR, mission16, dirtygoldman, AUandAG, deadmunny, thedutymon, leadoff4, Kid4HOF03, BRI2327, colebear, mcholke, rpcolettrane, rockdjrw, publius, quik, kalinefan, Allen, JackWESQ, CON40, Griffeyfan2430, blue227, Tiggs2012, ndleo, CDsNuts, ve3rules, doh, MurphDawg, tennessebanker, and gene1978.
I just pulled out my old printers loop and wow, what a mess they are. Had no clue that's what the standard was...
Thanks all for the input
A 10 basically looks perfect with the naked eye.
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Successful transactions on the BST boards with rtimmer, coincoins, gerard, tincup, tjm965, MMR, mission16, dirtygoldman, AUandAG, deadmunny, thedutymon, leadoff4, Kid4HOF03, BRI2327, colebear, mcholke, rpcolettrane, rockdjrw, publius, quik, kalinefan, Allen, JackWESQ, CON40, Griffeyfan2430, blue227, Tiggs2012, ndleo, CDsNuts, ve3rules, doh, MurphDawg, tennessebanker, and gene1978.
What do you guys think of this one?
I realized when I read these posts that a lot of sports collectors don't have Pokemon cards to share. I do have a few graded, but I have a lousy scanner, and am really BAD at grading. So I decided to show a few example of different grades in the hopes of providing a better look at some examples. Those of you that find them helpful....feel free to comment.
I had trouble loading them..so I will continue the list below this post....
Live long, and prosper.
Live long, and prosper.
Can't tell because it is in the toploader, but looks a little played on the back. This card doesn't sell for that much anyways if not a 10.
Live long, and prosper.
Thanks..great examples to study.
You can visually see the flaws in the PSA 3, PSA 7. A little harder for the PSA 9…but still visible. The PSA 10 is a lot cleaner.
All of these are foil cards, and the last card you asked about is not. Without the foil on the card, there is a better chance it has less flaws, but the same rules do apply. If you see any flaws, it will grade it lower.
Live long, and prosper.
The one I posted, Trainer, on the PSA site, shows a 10 auctioning for $58,000..a 9 at $7,000. Is that crazy?
@threeofsix
@Charlie226
thanks for posting those graded versions. is there a extremely brief synopsis of what are the key cards or variants for the pokémon runs?
i know charizard is basically ruth/mantle. and shadowless & holos are the more coveted versions, right?
condition is everything, but i have a huge stack ranging from the pocket monsters, to actual hologram cards, first tv series, first movie series, then some ‘99 wotc jungle cards & packs. but as for the rest i have no clue what to pull out, research, sub or what series they even are. any tips on easy identifiable marks? i know there are things other than the standard dates like w sport cards, right?
i know from various researching that a ton of boards/threads have been bombarded by folks posting junk cards thinking they were overnight millionaires after seeing ny times articles and such. just difnt want to be that guy until i know ive got some things worth actually asking about.
so any “idiots guide to pokemon” would certsinly be appreciated.
Great idea. I thought I had hit the jackpot with a 1999 Shadowless Charizard but upon scrutiny it would not cut a 10. I get it now..no marks, perfect centered, no chipped ink at edges, brilliant color...the Trainer "computer error" non holo Japanese 1996 card I posted today is flawless except not 100% perfectly centered under magnification...why should it rate a 10 if PSA shows a perfect 10 worth 60k? For that kind of money the smallest spec would disqualify it as a 10. So that's a start to your 'Idiots Guide'...PS I wonder if there already one in that series?
That's a hard one once you get past 2004. But for the years before that, I would put aside ANY holo cards. The years at the bottom aren't really going to help you since they did multiple sets per year and 2001/2002 still show 2000. You can play around by doing a completed auction search using the name and the number (xx/xx). Another thing you an put aside for 2004 and later is any cards that have a "EX" after the name. Also, any base set 1st edtion cards are good ( they are xx/102)
This might help as well.... https://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/Pokémon_Trading_Card_Game
RufussCkingston...yes glossy...that number I think was for the whole pop they rated! Ok i hear you. That red drop shadow is misregistion? Odd cause the rest is sharp
baby steps! thats a good start and doubled what i did know while also confirming what i thought year-issued wise. wasnt entirely sure if i was comprehending that correctly or not. thank you!
2 quick follow ups. some of these cards are completely japanese text. i do have an app thats able to decipher the basic info (sorta), but are there any premiums for these cards?
and then what about trainer and illustrator cards? i think they are illustrators? been a few months since i pulled them out.
There are Trainers and Energy cards. The only Illustrator card I know about is some uber valuable one talked about in the SMR mag this month. If the japanese is not a holo, then probably not valuable (except for the very first Basic (base) ones that don't have a type symbol in the bottom right corner (dot, star, diamond). Usually japanese are worth less than the english, but there is still value.
The thing is, except for a small amount of cards or very 1st editons, if a card isn't going to grade a 9 or higher, it is worth more to sell it raw.