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Differences between PSA 9 and PSA 10?

Hello,

I'm sure someone had posted about this in the past but wanted to get some kind of overview on how the PSA 9/10 cards are different knowing it's very minor or something with trying to find any layman terms about this online but haven't had much luck so I thought I could try here.
That's since I have my eye on a card which I haven't seen the PSA 10 one yet with very few of the PSA 9 ones so I'm not too sure of whether it'll be doable to go with the PSA 9 one.
Feel free to share your thought sometime.
Thank you in advance if you reply to this post.

Comments

  • Thank you!

  • PaulMaulPaulMaul Posts: 4,680 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I don’t think there is a true difference between attractive 9s and 10s. I feel that most 10s are nice 9s that are being rewarded in some way for being nice compared to other 9s in a given submission, and would likely come back as 9s if cracked and resubbed.

    That said, 10s are more likely than 9s to have perfect corners and near perfect centering.

  • jordangretzkyfanjordangretzkyfan Posts: 2,372 ✭✭✭✭✭

    If you are leaning toward an PSA 9, but want the eye appeal of a PSA 10, then start by making sure the PSA 9 is dead centered. This is the biggest variable between low end and high end 9s. Then check for sharp corners as the next preferred attribute. Last, make sure there isn’t an ugly print flaw / blurry registration. Most can live with slight chipping on a border, which can sometimes be the only difference between a high end 9 and a 10.

  • brad31brad31 Posts: 2,530 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Love that Marichal.

  • Thank you, all for sharing your thoughts.

  • BuckHunter68BuckHunter68 Posts: 379 ✭✭✭

    PSA 10 cards that are out of register or focus or have a poor strike of color bug the heck out of me. There are also cards that have known print flaws or smudges that sometimes come without them. I don't like a modern card like a '77 Garvey with the "blue pen" mark or the '78 Molitor/Trammell with the smudge in 10 holders. I'd like to see only truly remarkable cards in a 10 holder, but that's just my fantasy.

    Those '72s are so darn nice. Man, that makes a guy want to look at the whole set like that. Just beautiful!

    "You've gotta be a man to play this game...but you'd better have a lot of little boy in you, too"--Roy Campanella

  • GreenSneakersGreenSneakers Posts: 908 ✭✭✭✭

    The worst feeling is paying a healthy premium for a 10 and only finding a flaw post purchase. Great 9s are, well, great.

  • pab1969pab1969 Posts: 1,071 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I know there are many 10's sitting in 9 holders. I have several that I would love to crack out and send in for grading but the way grading is now they would probably drop to 8's or worse.

  • ReggieClevelandReggieCleveland Posts: 3,854 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I wouldn't purport to know all the intricacies of every release but, for what I collect, every time I've subbed a card thinking I would get a 10 and it came back a 9, I was able to find the reason upon closer inspection.

    I think for many beginners they fail to take into account how important the back of a card is. It's only natural. I mean, no one even looks at the back unless they think they've got a perfect front. So going through hundreds of cards and finally landing a scorcher of a front and then flipping it over to reveal a couple of large fisheyes I think people try to will the card into the 10 slab. Like, "I don't care about this card's back, MOST people wouldn't care about the card's back, JUST GIVE ME THE 10!"

    But that's the discipline. Especially this day and age of huge waybo grading fees. You have to be honest with yourself. You see that itsy bitsy teenie tiny speck of white on the tip of that corner? Yeah, so will the grader. It's not gonna 10.

    Arthur

  • DM23HOFDM23HOF Posts: 2,113 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I can see how that happens, though— because when there are so many 10s out there with a readily perceptible flaw, people look at their cards and think, “Why not mine?” I remember bumping many a 9 to a 10 back in the day— that game of hunting undergraded cards was fun.

    I’ve since found it’s paramount to remember that the collector himself is the final word, and the only one that matters. If one has a card they know is undergraded or has eye appeal that transcends the grade, one knows it — and doesn’t need to pay for a sticker to say it as well.

    Instagram: mattyc_collection

  • GoldenageGoldenage Posts: 3,278 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Some weak 10s aren’t as good as strong 9s. Buy the card.

  • stevekstevek Posts: 27,572 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I collect mostly vintage, so 10's are way out of my affordable price range. However I own a number of 9's commons and not once have I ever looked at one of my 9's and said to myself, "Gee i wish i had a 10 instead."

  • PaulMaulPaulMaul Posts: 4,680 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited May 23, 2021 9:28AM

    @stevek said:
    I collect mostly vintage, so 10's are way out of my affordable price range. However I own a number of 9's commons and not once have I ever looked at one of my 9's and said to myself, "Gee i wish i had a 10 instead."

    That’s why being at the top of the set registry will never be a goal of mine. Why waste money upgrading cards I am already happy with?

  • KendallCatKendallCat Posts: 2,966 ✭✭✭✭✭

    With a 9 you always question why is this card not a 10. With a 10 you always say “no way is that card a 10.” 🤣

  • stevekstevek Posts: 27,572 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @PaulMaul said:

    @stevek said:
    I collect mostly vintage, so 10's are way out of my affordable price range. However I own a number of 9's commons and not once have I ever looked at one of my 9's and said to myself, "Gee i wish i had a 10 instead."

    That’s why being at the top of the set registry will never be a goal of mine. Why waste money upgrading cards I am already happy with?

    @PaulMaul said:

    @stevek said:
    I collect mostly vintage, so 10's are way out of my affordable price range. However I own a number of 9's commons and not once have I ever looked at one of my 9's and said to myself, "Gee i wish i had a 10 instead."

    That’s why being at the top of the set registry will never be a goal of mine. Why waste money upgrading cards I am already happy with?

    Besides, i couldn't compete with those collectors anyway. LOL

  • 19591959 Posts: 606 ✭✭✭

    What's a 10?

  • stevekstevek Posts: 27,572 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @1959 said:
    What's a 10?

    A card equivalent to a beautiful supermodel. B)

  • NGS428NGS428 Posts: 2,255 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @PaulMaul said:

    @stevek said:
    I collect mostly vintage, so 10's are way out of my affordable price range. However I own a number of 9's commons and not once have I ever looked at one of my 9's and said to myself, "Gee i wish i had a 10 instead."

    That’s why being at the top of the set registry will never be a goal of mine. Why waste money upgrading cards I am already happy with?

    My focus has turned more to 100% completion. I agree.

  • balco758balco758 Posts: 1,303 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited May 24, 2021 11:58AM

    Honestly, I love 9’s all day. 9’s becomes pinnacles in my collection.

    When I have a 10, I start to think about what I can sell it for.

  • dan89dan89 Posts: 484 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Yes, agree I sell most of my 10’s unless it is for my PC and even then sometimes.

    @balco758 said:
    Honestly, I love 9’s all day. 9’s becomes pinnacles in my collection.

    When I have a 10, I start to think about what I can sell it for.

  • ScottAScottA Posts: 33 ✭✭

    Easy question.

    PSA 10 – PSA 9 = PSA 1.

    I'm good at math.

  • ScoobyDoo2ScoobyDoo2 Posts: 839 ✭✭✭✭✭

    They both take too long to get back from grading.

  • DeutscherGeistDeutscherGeist Posts: 2,990 ✭✭✭✭

    The centering on the back of the card for a PSA 10 is supposed to be better than on a PSA 9. When I inspect PSA 10s, I look for one that is perfectly centered or else I pass. That is easier said than done. On a scan, a PSA 10 may look centered, but when I have it on hand, I can see it is slightly off. It does not mean it was not graded correctly as PSA 10s do have a slight tolerance of centering.

    "So many of our DREAMS at first seem impossible, then they seem improbable, and then, when we SUMMON THE WILL they soon become INEVITABLE "- Christopher Reeve

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  • rexvosrexvos Posts: 3,274 ✭✭✭✭✭

    a lot of times there is zero difference. Depends on the grader. It is a crap shoot.

    Looking for FB HOF Rookies
  • voxels123voxels123 Posts: 240 ✭✭✭

    The vast difference in price will ALWAYS exist. Getting a 9 to a 10 holder is tough but is, always, always worth the effort.

    Many will post 9s that should be 10s and vice versa. The bottom line is that when an important 9 or a 10 become available on the open market, these issues have usually been sorted out via blood, sweat, and tear$ beforehand.

  • bobbybakerivbobbybakeriv Posts: 2,186 ✭✭✭✭

    @BuckHunter68 said:
    PSA 10 cards that are out of register or focus or have a poor strike of color bug the heck out of me. There are also cards that have known print flaws or smudges that sometimes come without them. I don't like a modern card like a '77 Garvey with the "blue pen" mark or the '78 Molitor/Trammell with the smudge in 10 holders. I'd like to see only truly remarkable cards in a 10 holder, but that's just my fantasy.

    Those '72s are so darn nice. Man, that makes a guy want to look at the whole set like that. Just beautiful!

    Agreed. That 77 Garvey's blue pen mark always bothered me too! I only buy and submit copies without that fatal flaw.

  • SeaverfanSeaverfan Posts: 70 ✭✭✭

    Hi, Just joined the boards! Glad to speak with all of you!

    Been collecting baseball cards most of my life and graded cards since ~2001. Over the years I've had many cards graded (vast majority PSA), bought and sold my fair share of graded cards and I'd like to give my perspective and experience on the 9 vs 10 issue.

    Regarding vintage cards (1989 and older) I have found the PSA 10 to be quite elusive. Over the years I have found PSA 9's to be very consistent with only the very occasional "head scratcher".

    So what makes a vintage card a PSA 10 over a "solid" PSA 9...?

    IMO when perusing the card....A 10 has .... centering as described by PSA (55/45 or better) on the front... four "square" appearing corners with virtually no chipping and fraying.... no "edge lifts" anywhere on the four edges and corners of the card in oblique lighting... no protruding paper fiber outlines or bubbles on the card surface.... even surface gloss in oblique lighting... a smooth tactile (non-grainy) "feel" to the front surface of the card between thumb and fore finger.... no "oil spots" on the cards front surface.... and if the card has all these attributes it must also have a distinct "flatness" to it when viewed in its case. If it does not have that distinct "flatness", the card does not get a 10.

    I've found deep color and perfect registration are not necessary to obtain a 10.

    So... most of the features separating the "solid" 9 vs 10 are surface features as well as the "Gestalt" of that distinct "flatness" to the card when in its holder....

    When perusing the card for grading I've found you can see if the card has that distinct "flatness" when it's in a Card Saver 1.

    Overall, not an easy task to get a 10!!

    Thanks

  • yoda100yoda100 Posts: 37 ✭✭✭
    edited December 21, 2021 3:59PM


    I used to think 10s were a joke. I mean, why pay more for something that didn't appear to look better than a 9. I'm glad, however, that at times, I ignored my own thought process and occasionally grabbed a 10.

  • SeaverfanSeaverfan Posts: 70 ✭✭✭

    That Payton is "flat"!!

  • voxels123voxels123 Posts: 240 ✭✭✭

    Sometimes a lot, sometimes not.

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