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Experience sending in 1976 Football for grading?

I have a number of 1976 football that I think are absolute blazers. Mostly commons with some stars mixed in. Currently submissions at $20 per card even if I pull a lot of 9’s it doesn’t appear worth submitting? I’ve looked at recent auction prices and pop reports to try to identify the most worthy ones to sub if I do. Was wondering what other peoples experience is with subbing this year, successes, failures, particular things to look for? Maybe a special will come out where the price makes it more worth the risk. Thank you

Comments

  • bobbybakerivbobbybakeriv Posts: 2,186 ✭✭✭✭

    Greetings. I think if you share a few scans, you will get more responses. I've subbed many '76 Topps football and my grades have been mixed. I've had mostly PSA 8s and 9s. PSA 10s are difficult and they are definitely the top sellers like you noted. Most all PSA 10s are valuable. There are exceptions of cards that sell well even in lower grades (e.g., Payton! Lambert, Simpson). Good luck with your sub!

  • ArtVandelayArtVandelay Posts: 700 ✭✭✭✭

    The price increase has made it so it's no longer worth sending commons in unless you are guaranteed a 10. A 9 has almost become a break even at best grade. With stars/star rookies you can still do well with a 9 and a superstar rookie like Payton is the exception to the rule. It will be interesting to see how this impacts modern rippers who grade in massive volume. They might start seeing big losses as the time alone to get back their cards from grading along with the additional costs might flip the modern market back to a buyers market.

  • 76collector76collector Posts: 986 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I’m mainly focused on baseball but here is what I do. Make a stack of all the cards you think with a 5 second or less view could 10 or hall of fame players. After your initial stack is made go through the hall of famers and see what they sell for. Then go check the pop report for the rest. Take out any cards that have more than 10 gem mint 10’s. That should limit your stack. Now look at each card in depth. If you see ANY flaws, even the slightest thing you “think” they may ding you on remove the card if it is a common. Once you are done with that if you have more than 50 cards (especially commons) you should go through them again because you weren’t thorough enough. After the second time through then check what those cards sell for in a 9. If any of them sell for less than the cost of grading in a 9 than remove them as well. That’s your stack of cards to submit.

    Jeff

    I cannot hit curveball. Straightball I hit it very much. Curveball, bats are afraid.
    Collecting:
    post world war II HOF rookie
    76 topps gem mint 10 commons 9 stars
    Arenado purple refractors(Rockies) Red (Cardinals)
    successful deals with Keevan, Grote15, 1954, mbogoman
  • wrightywrighty Posts: 840 ✭✭✭✭

    @76collector said:
    I’m mainly focused on baseball but here is what I do. Make a stack of all the cards you think with a 5 second or less view could 10 or hall of fame players. After your initial stack is made go through the hall of famers and see what they sell for. Then go check the pop report for the rest. Take out any cards that have more than 10 gem mint 10’s. That should limit your stack. Now look at each card in depth. If you see ANY flaws, even the slightest thing you “think” they may ding you on remove the card if it is a common. Once you are done with that if you have more than 50 cards (especially commons) you should go through them again because you weren’t thorough enough. After the second time through then check what those cards sell for in a 9. If any of them sell for less than the cost of grading in a 9 than remove them as well. That’s your stack of cards to submit.

    Jeff

    Great advice I appreciate your thoughts and sharing your process

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