How would you handle declared value? looking for help

tonylags

So for example, I'm pulling Henderson rookies for my 1980 sets that been sitting in the closet since 1980; they look extremely sharp and fairly to well centered, considering in 1980 they went from pack to box or pages. This is just one example, but I have thousands. or what about 2003 topps chrome lebron, etc?

should I get a 10 {highly unlikely} sub would cost 5000, which I am ok with after the fact
in a 9 value is around 2500
in an 8 value is around 500

so my question is what level would you submit at? I can't really afford to waste money since I have thousands of cards I am looking to send in. I understand the up charge rule, my only fear is, what if it really is a 10 and gets lost, or is grade limited to declared value. Any advice appreciated. I have graded before, lower grade stuff, not really high grade & not really at these current value's.

RufussCkingston

Undervalue and get up-Charged if it grades higher..... The only issue is the insurance/damage value if something happens to it. So that's where the gamble lies.

professorpuck

The rule is ABS:

Always. Be. Subbing-at-the-lowest-possible-tier.

daltex

@tonylags said:
or is grade limited to declared value.

This doesn't happen. PSA is committed to accuracy in grading, not punitive.