9/10???
Cubsfan71
Posts: 67 ✭✭
This falls into the category of only getting graded if it’s a 10. First couple of times I looked it I thought it was almost “perfect” but then noticed the front left edge seems “dinged”. Am I correct in that this would keep it from being a 10??? Still calibrating, thank you group. 
Always looking for 1950's Graded Banks Cards
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A 6 is infinitely more likely than a 10 with loader mark like that.
Agreed, that wouldn’t be a 10, or even close to a 9.
Yaz Master Set
#1 Gino Cappelletti master set
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Also collecting Andre Tippett, Patriots Greats' RCs, Dwight Evans, 1964 Venezuelan Topps, 1974 Topps Red Sox
Thank you for the feedback...getting my first bulk order ready for send and find that I keep telling myself "its not that bad" lol...especially with cards that are only worth grading if 10's. Guessing its very normal for a newbie to overlook such flaws. Appreciate the calibration. Don't want to waste money either.
Always looking for 1950's Graded Banks Cards
Here’s my guideline - if you see ANYTHING that makes you think “I wonder if that will keep it from a 10”, then it’s a 6-8.
I've "paid" for my education, even after submitting a few thousand cards I still miss stuff. It happens.
Go Boilers!
You might want to post some of the other cards you are thinking about submitting and what you think they might get.... The fact you considered this McMahon as gradable at all raises concerns as I know you are a newbie......
From what I hear it's hard to score a ten
I really don't ever assume a 10. If I submit a card, it either has to be worth it at an 8 or I just want it graded because of reasons. For example, I am having a 1975 Cecil Cooper graded. The few that come up on Ebay are way overpriced so paying $12 to have it graded so that it fits in with my collection is worth it even though I probably couldn't sell it for $12 if it is a 6 or a 5.
Curb your enthusiasm...
PSA 4.
chaz
The most important thing with your first few subs is to take careful notes of expected grades before, and compare to the after. If off by 2 grades or more, study what you missed. In most peoples cases, it's surface issues that cause large discrepancies (scratches, wrinkles, refractor lines, etc.)
Agree with this. Post a sample of what you’re thinking of grading and what you think it will grade.
you have a good eye for centering, your edges and corner eye need a lot of work and will cost you many dollars, especially nowadays with the grading costs. Back 10-12 yrs ago when bulk sub fees were $4.50 a card, you could somewhat pay for an education and get out with your life. Gambling and common grading days are pretty much over for me.
It's a Friday night and might be some bored people here.. Feel free to post some pics and get some free advice from the group.
Agreed. No chance at 9 or 10.