Grading Strategies
Cubsfan71
Posts: 67 ✭✭
Hello everyone, I'm brand new to the wall
Like many, I've recently rekindled my interest in my collection. I'm the classic 50 year old that was buying and immediately storing cards/sets in the late 70's/early 80's. Some older stuff in the 60's that not in as great a shape but the cards from 70's and especially the early 80's in excellent physical condition (been stored in sheets or hard holders since I got them. (also don't really comprehend yet how much the photo being off-center will impact the grading to a card in otherwise excellent condition?)
I have done a ton of research on PSA about grading / populations / auction prices, etc... have inventoried the majority of my collection and have ball park expectations regarding expected prices based on grading results.
And that is my question, how do you dip your toe into the grading process for the first time??? Not sure where to jump in. Start with some less valuable cards to calibrate my eye for grading? What was your experience, tips of a rookie? Part of me just wants to "eye ball" what I think are one or two really excellent condition rookie cards (Montana, Elway, Marino, Taylor, etc...), pay more initially to have a couple of my best cards graded, see if they are anything close to a 9 or 10 and fumble through the selling process for the first time. MAYBE use those proceeds to fuel the process and increase my involvement, etc...
Anyway, have very much loved organizing and inventorying...so many great memories. Appreciate any and all advice, wisdom, experience shared. Thank you.
Always looking for 1950's Graded Banks Cards
Comments
welcome aboard.
pics first and foremost. rest is just talk, what if's and baseless opinions til then.
shoot us some cards that represent the average condition of what you think you'll be subbing.
Welcome!
I agree with the first response.
Pulled out roughly 500 football Hall of Famers from mid-70’s to 84.
Always looking for 1950's Graded Banks Cards
Agree with the first response. I’d add that when you’re grading for the first time, it’s easy to get excited and want to grade everything that looks close. Don’t. Pretend the cards aren’t yours and scrutinize everything. Don’t overlook registration, surface scratches, dimples/bumps, etc.
It also depends on what you’re grading. With the jump in bulk prices, there are a lot of very nice cards that are simply not worth grading over raw.
All in all we’re all just bricks in “the wall.”
Welcome to the Jungle. Some of those cards are very nice. The 1983 and 84 Ronnie Lott cards aren’t worth grading based on value alone, plus the centering of some are pretty rough.
Yaz Master Set
#1 Gino Cappelletti master set
#1 John Hannah master set
Also collecting Andre Tippett, Patriots Greats' RCs, Dwight Evans, 1964 Venezuelan Topps, 1974 Topps Red Sox
Lots of ff centered cards pictures there which are not optimal grading candidates in most cases. The best card I see so far is the Lawrence Taylor where the corners appear to be strong and it looks very well centered, but your angles make it tough to say for sure. Your Elway rookie will most likely get an OC (off center) qualifier, and the Jimmy Brown is way OC and may get an MC (miscut) qualifier instead of OC.
Flat scans on a black back ground (or dark room with the scanner lid open) are best for getting the best opinions (and that's all they are is opinions). Good luck rediscovering your card passion and keep sending any cards you'd like to hear the truth about.
Wow... great feedback and input. Thank you, all. And yes, several cards in excellent condition but unfortunately Off-Center or Mis Cut, seems to be a common problem... i know its hard to speak in general terms but do you use a rule thumb for how many grades you anticipate being bumped down with an OC or MC???
Always looking for 1950's Graded Banks Cards
Two grades for registry purposes, more for resale since centering is all the rage these days.
For example, Montana Rookie way off center ... ???
Always looking for 1950's Graded Banks Cards
I’d need a better pic of the LT to give an opinion, but the upper right corner looks like it might be soft. That’s the only one I think may be worth it.
It looks like you're asking a question, but there's no way you need us to tell you it's way off center. The basic idea of centering is that the borders are measured and 50/50 is a perfectly centered card. Your card from left to right is almost 100/0. Rough guess-timate top to bottom is 45/55.
There are some that say you should grade any Montana rookie card, but my opinion is that I don't think this one gets any value added vs. the fee of being encapsulated. Now if it's a childhood cornerstone of your collection that you're keeping forever and just want to preserve it and feel at ease about it's authenticity, then by all means send it in.
@nam812 yeah, just no clue how much that down grades it ... @LarkinCollector so if the "condition" of the card itself might grade at an 8, you're saying an OC could bump it down 2 grades for "registry" purposes to 6, but may only sell at an average of 2 or 3? This is getting gloomier by the minute ... but seriously, great insight
Always looking for 1950's Graded Banks Cards
You can use PSA's Auction Prices to get an idea: https://www.psacard.com/auctionprices/football-cards/1981-topps/joe-montana/values/273423#g=8
Recent sales:
PSA 8(OC) $171
PSA 8 $810
PSA 5 $177
Multiple years back, when I first jumped into getting cards graded, the three biggest mistakes I made:
1. It's a star card, so it should be graded. In most cases, wrong. I ended up with a bunch of mid-career Paul Hornungs and Joe Namaths graded 2s and 3s, which aren't worth the price to grade.
2. It's an old card, so it should be graded. In most cases, wrong. Unless it's in absolutely perfect shape (8, 9 or 10), it's usually not worth grading just because it's old. Even in great shape, a 60s football common or even semi-star won't be worth much more graded as a 6 or 7.
3. I consistently over-graded my cards. Still do to this day. I still look at something and think "Oh, that's an 8 based on PSA guidelines" and then it comes back a 6. Or I miss a stain or printer mark. Or I convince myself it's not really a crease. Or I don't look closely at the surface. If I'm a few cards short of a bulk discount, sure, maybe throw a few in just to see what happens, but I always expect to be disappointed with the grades I get back.
If you haven't already, start here and click on each picture and especially at the bottom where it talks qualifiers.....
https://www.psacard.com/resources/gradingstandards
The 3 biggest mistakes when I first started sending cards in:
1. Send in all star cards. Generally don't. I ended up with a bunch of mid-career Joe Namaths and Paul Hornungs at PSA 3s or 4s. Just because they're stars, doesn't mean it's always worth grading them.
2. Condition is all that matters. Generally, no. Vintage commons in a 9 or 10 might be worth grading, but those are few and far between. Unless you need a couple of cards to hit a bulk discount, I wouldn't bother.
3. I always over-grade my cards. I miss a small stain or a surface imperfection. I think cards are 8s when they're actually 6s. I convince myself that little bulge isn't really a wrinkle. Be prepared to have cards come back significantly lower than you think.
@Copyboy1 GREAT advice. I know I was already starting to fall victim to #2 and this thread has already started to help level out expectations with #3...I'm sure we have all been guilty of over-grading our own cards...
Always looking for 1950's Graded Banks Cards
I would add that there are a few guys that seem to be collected no matter the year, as long as it's a 10. Nolan Ryan immediately comes to mind, Mattingly and Henderson also but to a lesser degree.