How to tell real from a reprint?

mexpo75

I know there was a thread about this before, but I wanted to know if there was a best way to tell the difference between a real and reprint card. I seem to remember something about the print dot matrix or something. Thanks.

76collector

Hopefully some experts will get on and help you out with this. But here are my 2 cents. It's a lot easier when you get it in hand. The card stock is usually different. You can look at the edges of a real one for example and see a difference. Even the smell is different of a card that has been sitting around somewhere for 50 years. Also, I'm not a buyer of anything I see online that has some sort of perfect symmetrical wear. Like all 4 corners are worn the exact same way, and it is centered perfectly ? That's a red flag to me. That is when you are talking a reprint of a vintage card though. I have no idea how to tell a reprint of a 2011 topps update Mike Trout or a 2003 Lebron.

Jeff

billwaltonsbeard

I assume we're talking about counterfeit cards.

It really depends on the card...... For high dollar cards, there are numerous documented explanations of how to tell.

But at the end of the day, unless you're holding it in your hand, you should never pay big bucks for a non-graded vintage card.

Stone193

Hiya Mike

Geez. This is such a potentially complicated question to answer in a short story.

So, if you'll take the time?

I like David Rudd - Cycleback's webs:

LINK I

LINK II

Why I like a real black light?

Not only can one potentially detect a "recolored" or "altered stock" card? Also, if we're talking about an old card - like a 33G? The stock is white but "no" photo brighteners were used before around 1940 (around 1940, they started adding "whiteners" to paper, card stock, cotton etc.) - so if you have a 33G Gehrig and the card under the black light turns blue? You know it's modern stock e.g.

A good set of books to have? The Counterfeit Detector - I believe there's at least 2 iterations? I only have the original.

Best of luck buddy.

mexpo75

Thanks, Mike. I bought a 59 mantle for low price, which looked nice in photos. $125. I'll find out in a few days. Keep you posted.

Stone193

@mexpo75 said:
Thanks, Mike. I bought a 59 mantle for low price, which looked nice in photos. $125. I'll find out in a few days. Keep you posted.

Best of luck Mike.

If the card was cheaply reproduced - I'm sure you know you can look at anything that's solid black print - like the solid black line around the Yankee logo.

In a cheap fake? The black line under even a 5X will look like print dots instead of a solid line.

mexpo75

Thanks Mike. That will be first thing I look for when it gets here. So I'm hoping for solid black circle around logo correct?

Stone193

@mexpo75 said:
Thanks Mike. That will be first thing I look for when it gets here. So I'm hoping for solid black circle around logo correct?

That's correct Mike - the "solid" line will be reduced to "print dots" - hope yours is the real deal.

stevek

Some excellent advice already given.

You also may want to consider buying some PSA graded VG-EX type commons off Ebay, of the years you wish to familiarize yourself with and collect. Wouldn't be all that expensive to do, you'll examine them under a loupe, and familiarize yourself with what genuine cards look like.

Might save you a heckuva lot of money down the road, as i believe knowledge about card grading and authenticity makes the hobby more fun, especially when investment is a consideration.