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20th Century Type Set ?

Most of the coins look like they are in mint/uncirculated state .... should i take them out of the case and get them graded???
Cents 1904
Cents 1909 V.B.D.
Cents 1955 S
Cents 1943 D
Cents 1945
Cents 1972 s
Cents 1985
Nickles 1883
Nickles 1913 mound
Nickles 1938 no mound
Nickles 1944 wartime silver
Nickles 1948 no initials
Nickles 1972 D
Dimes 1892
Dimes 1945
Dimes 1972
Quarters 1915
Quarters 1917 exposed
Quarters 1929 covered
Quarters 1969 silver
Quarters 1972
Quarters 1776-1976
Halves 1912
Halves 1942 Walking Lib
Halves 1958
Halves 1964 900 silver
Halves 1965 400 silver
Halves 1972 D
Halves 1776-1976 s
Dollars 1881 S
Dollars 1923
Dollars 1974 D
Dollars 1776-1976 low relief bold
Dollars 1979 s

Comments

  • winestevenwinesteven Posts: 1,109 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November 2, 2020 10:02PM

    @Camerajk , there are several factors to your decision, and I’ll try to help you focus on those key factors to hopefully make you feel comfortable with what YOU decide:
    1. Many collectors of coins, especially with coins of not very high value, prefer keeping their coins “raw”. This allows them to handsomely display their coins, such as in the “case” you presently have.
    2. Keeping coins “raw” allows you to have the physical pleasure of CAREFULLY handling them, literally holding history in your hand. Make sure though your hands are clean and free from oils, and only hold them by the edge.
    3. Keeping your coins raw at this point is easy and cost free - do nothing.
    4. As a ballpark figure it’ll cost you about $700 to have those coins graded ($16 each for the “Modern” coins - 1965 to the present, and $22 each for the other coins using “economy”, plus $10 for each of your two separate submission forms, plus round trip shipping). You can note on your forms to hold the submission that finishes first to ship both submissions back together, to save you money.
    5. There are several advantages to having your coins in holders. It’ll protect them from future physical damage to allow you to hold them with no risk; high chance of protection from environmental damage; guaranteed authenticity, although I don’t believe that’s of any concern or risk with the coins you’ve listed; almost no dispute of the actual grade of each coin when they eventually get sold, etc.
    6. If you do lean to having graded coins, my guess is it will be less expensive to buy the kinds of coins you have, but already graded, and almost certainly in grades much higher than your coins are likely to be. I happen to have one of the top rated Registry 20th Century Type Sets, and for my coins in that set that are like many of yours, I bought them on eBay for around $10 - $20 each. For coins in this price range I personally suggest using only the larger sellers with feedback numbers in the tens of thousands for increasing the chances you’ll like the coins. I currently see several Roosevelt dimes from the 1980’s graded PR70DCAM selling for $13 - $15 each. Why pay to have your 1972 Dime graded at a higher cost, when chances are very slim it’ll match that highest grade possible, PR70DCAM?
    7. If you do decide to put together a 20th Century Type Set (and I strongly encourage you to do so, as it’s a beautiful and VERY interesting collection at not a high cost), I encourage you to utilize Proof coins instead of business strikes (coins graded PR instead of MS) like I described above, for many of the “Modern” coins - you’ll get much better luster, higher grades for often less money than MS coins, better and deeper strikes, etc. They’ll look as if they were made just yesterday. Consider buying Modern coins graded PR69DCAM if they’re much less expensive than PR70DCAM.
    8. Whatever you decide, enjoy, learn, and have fun!!!

    A day without fine wine and working on your coin collection is like a day without sunshine!!!
  • CamerajkCamerajk Posts: 13
    edited November 3, 2020 9:57AM

    This is a picture of the set ...

  • winestevenwinesteven Posts: 1,109 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Camerajk - Gorgeous set!!!!!

    A day without fine wine and working on your coin collection is like a day without sunshine!!!
  • thats why i wanted to know if i should get it graded.....

  • winestevenwinesteven Posts: 1,109 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Camerajk - See my original comments. I still stand by that, but as noted in those comments, I'm not directly answering your question, but only providing you information for YOU to make an informed decision (either way).

    Steve

    A day without fine wine and working on your coin collection is like a day without sunshine!!!
  • CamerajkCamerajk Posts: 13
    edited November 3, 2020 12:58PM

    @winesteven thanks for the info... how about this...should i get some of them graded??

  • winestevenwinesteven Posts: 1,109 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November 3, 2020 1:16PM

    @Camerajk said:
    @winesteven thanks for the info... how about this...should i get some of them graded??

    In my opinion I suggest if you want graded coins, to not spend the money on grading yours. I truly believe for not much money you can buy coins already graded that look great and have a very high liklihood of being graded higher than your coins will grade. Please take a look at eBay for some of the modern coins from LARGE sellers graded PR69DCAM with 20th Century dates (leave out the dates in your search). As noted in my example above, it's easy to get a PR70DCAM Roosevelt Dime graded by PCGS for $15 or less with free shipping . I see a Lincoln Cent graded PR70DCAM by PCGS for $30, free shipping (PR69DCAM for less than $9, with free shipping). A 20th Century jefferson Nickel PCGS PR70DCAM for less than $20 (PR69DCAM for less than $7 shipped!), and so on.

    As nice as your coins look to the naked eye, I'd be SHOCKED if any came back as high as MS69 or if proof, PR69DCAM due to their being handles and pressed in the handsome Capital plastic. As noted in my lengthy summary higher up, in my opinion proof coins that are DCAM look SO MUCH nicer than Mint State examples.

    A day without fine wine and working on your coin collection is like a day without sunshine!!!
  • ifthevamzarockinifthevamzarockin Posts: 3,245 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Nice type set! :)

    Best left as is...... I would not grade them.

  • winestevenwinesteven Posts: 1,109 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Camerajk , if you do decide to have some of your coins graded, I suggest you do the older ones, and NONE of the “modern” coins, for the reasons I’ve stated. Be aware if you estimate the value of any of the coins exceed $300, those would then need their own submission form for that group, and use “Regular” service at $35 per coin. For $5 extra per coin you can get “Gold Shield”, which will then include a TrueView at no additional cost besides that $5.

    If you do decide to submit, please let us know how you make out - both the good and not so good.

    Steve

    A day without fine wine and working on your coin collection is like a day without sunshine!!!
  • @winesteven as of right now i am not going to get those coins graded .... I am however will be getting some of my other coins graded when i get the boxes from PCGS.... I am going to be starting off with a small amount of the coins... my: 1859 type 3 gold dollar, 1908 2 1/2 gold ,1884 5 dollar gold, 1854 1C, 1878 seated half dollar, 1917 type 1 25 cent piece, 1928 Peace dollar, and 1878 CC morgan......

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