Unfortunately the cards you have showing do not have much value. The cards pictured come from sets/issues the were very common, probably over produced and are still pretty easy to find at cheap prices.
Ah thanks everyone! I figured id ask...there are some other cards that I dug up too..these ones seemed to be more valuable to him because of where it was stored..I’ll get some pictures of them... but thanks for the replies about these cards..oh well!!!
Maybe it's just me, but I use inherited in ways other than deceased.
"Joe got promoted and unfortunately I inherited the stack of papers on his desk that need filing."
"My older cousin discovered cars and girls, so I inherited his baseball card collection."
In this thread it may very well mean deceased, but to just assume that seems a little morbid.
Yep, good point. I was just pointing out the reason that it was brought up. Apologies if I misunderstood your comment - I thought you just missed the thread title rather than trying to point out that conclusions were jumped to (it was early for me too).
That card goes for a trip to the LCS for a new cs1 or top-loader. Then once you can actually see it, it goes to ebay to look for an inheritantly conditioned card.
Go to eBay and search on recently completed sales for anything you’re wondering about. You’ll get more accurate information that way vs. asking us here. If you have questions about how a card will grade, there are plenty of people here who can help out with that; simple questions on price can be handled yourself via eBay.
Maybe it's just me, but I use inherited in ways other than deceased.
"Joe got promoted and unfortunately I inherited the stack of papers on his desk that need filing."
"My older cousin discovered cars and girls, so I inherited his baseball card collection."
In this thread it may very well mean deceased, but to just assume that seems a little morbid.
It's just you. Kidding aside, most people would probably use that term to describe something they got from a recently passed relative. I was thinking the same thing though about it being a bunch of low value common, relatively new cards, something like a kid would own. I would never assume someone inherited their kid's collection if they died though.
Better stuff is starting to surface, I see, but still looks like a typical early-mid 90s collection, maybe with one (or more?) better older cards (like the Montane RC) purchased or gifted from someone else?
I collect Steve Garvey, Dodgers and signed cards. Collector since 1978.
@burghman said:
Go to eBay and search on recently completed sales for anything you’re wondering about. You’ll get more accurate information that way vs. asking us here. If you have questions about how a card will grade, there are plenty of people here who can help out with that; simple questions on price can be handled yourself via eBay.
I wasn’t sure if eBay was accurate or not...so how does card grading work? Do I have to take it out of the packaging? I wouldn’t want to damage it..
Looks like it’s just in a penny sleeve in a top loader in a sealed bag, so there’s no real danger in removing it from the packaging If done carefully (it’s not like other cards that come sealed from the manufacturer, where breaking the seal introduces fears of tampering, fakes, etc.). You can usually just tilt the top loader and the card slides out very easily - don’t let it go flying out! Gently slide it out of the top loader then the penny sleeve and hold it carefully by the edges - don’t touch the corners and limit how much you touch the surfaces. If you’re considering grading, I‘d recommend taking it out to inspect, and check the PSA grading standards: https://www.psacard.com/resources/gradingstandards
You’re going to tend to over-grade your own cards in the early days, so be very critical of everything and try not to talk yourself into not seeing something. And don’t ignore the backs of the cards. It’s very easy to say, “Yeah, but given the age of this card, how many better ones can there be? It’s got be a 9.” Search on eBay for cards that look like they’re similar in corner condition, centering, etc. - that might give you an idea about what your card will grade. Then you can see what they’re going for and determine if the grading costs are worth it to you.
Corners on your Montana are tough to see - I don’t see anything obvious, but it’s tough given the packaging and the coloring. Edges look good, but it’s off center both left to right and top to bottom - not significantly, but enough that a PSA 9 or 10 is probably out of the question regardless of perfect corners, edges, and surfaces. L to R centering looks right on the edge of PSA 8 limits.
There are lots of people here who can offer grading opinions, so if you post pics when it’s out of the top loader we can chime in based on centering, edges, and corners. Surfaces are tougher here - pics don’t show smudges, wrinkles, etc.
@burghman said:
Go to eBay and search on recently completed sales for anything you’re wondering about. You’ll get more accurate information that way vs. asking us here. If you have questions about how a card will grade, there are plenty of people here who can help out with that; simple questions on price can be handled yourself via eBay.
I wasn’t sure if eBay was accurate or not...so how does card grading work? Do I have to take it out of the packaging? I wouldn’t want to damage it..
In order to compare prices on ebay, make sure to search sold items. The green numbers will be the price that the item actually sold for. It is very accurate, and sometimes much more accurate than looking at current buy it now auctions that could have inflated asking prices.
In your first picture, it looks like you have an 84 topps factory set. If you do wind up grading any of the other cards (like the Montana), take a looksie at the HOFers from your 84 topps set (Ryan, Ripken, Brett, Gwynn, Henderson ) plus the Mattingly, Rose, and Murphy. They will sell rather easily if graded 9 and will get really good $ if they are 10's.
@blurryface said:
That card goes for a trip to the LCS for a new cs1 or top-loader. Then once you can actually see it, it goes to ebay to look for an inheritantly conditioned card.
Ok thanks, I’ve order new holders and I’ll transfer them when they come in...maybe take a few more pictures so you all can see them better..I have a few other cards that were in some book in sleeves as well..baseball cards..
Vlandsponger
Posts: 12 ✭
Comments
$100.
$10
Unfortunately very, very little value unless you find RC’s in PSA 10 condition and that’s slim and slimmer.
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
Unfortunately the cards you have showing do not have much value. The cards pictured come from sets/issues the were very common, probably over produced and are still pretty easy to find at cheap prices.
Sorry
The cards are very valuable...as a treasured memory of your dearly departed. As for monetary value though, eh...sorry Charlie.
Dimes: 54S, 53P, 50P, 49S, 45D+S, 44S, 43D, 41S, 40D+S, 39D+S, 38D+S, 37D+S, 36S, 35D+S, all 16-34's
Quarters: 52S, 47S, 46S, 40S, 39S, 38S, 37D+S, 36D+S, 35D, 34D, 32D+S
74 Topps: 37,38,46,47,48,138,151,193,210,214,223,241,256,264,268,277,289,316,435,552,570,577,592,602,610,654,655
1997 Finest silver: 115, 135, 139, 145, 310
1995 Ultra Gold Medallion Sets: Golden Prospects, HR Kings, On-Base Leaders, Power Plus, RBI Kings, Rising Stars
Ah thanks everyone! I figured id ask...there are some other cards that I dug up too..these ones seemed to be more valuable to him because of where it was stored..I’ll get some pictures of them... but thanks for the replies about these cards..oh well!!!
Hopefully u will be able to find some tiny cards (Old Judge/t206 tobacco cards) or giant cards (1952 Topps)
That looks like a child's collection which would mean you lost somebody way too soon. I'm really sorry for your loss.
Arthur
These must have some value to them?
$200 now w/ Montana, Sanders & Favre rookies.
But keep looking for Jordan and any other basketball rookies like that Kemp & Vlade Doddy.
I don't see any edits, and I just woke up so it could be me just not seeing it, but where does he say that somebody passed away?
Thread title contains “inherited”
Jim
Keep plugging away and posting pics. The good thing about card collections is that it really only takes 1 card outta hundreds of pounds of junk!
Maybe it's just me, but I use inherited in ways other than deceased.
"Joe got promoted and unfortunately I inherited the stack of papers on his desk that need filing."
"My older cousin discovered cars and girls, so I inherited his baseball card collection."
In this thread it may very well mean deceased, but to just assume that seems a little morbid.
Yep, good point. I was just pointing out the reason that it was brought up. Apologies if I misunderstood your comment - I thought you just missed the thread title rather than trying to point out that conclusions were jumped to (it was early for me too).
Jim
So what does this card go for ?
That card goes for a trip to the LCS for a new cs1 or top-loader. Then once you can actually see it, it goes to ebay to look for an inheritantly conditioned card.
Go to eBay and search on recently completed sales for anything you’re wondering about. You’ll get more accurate information that way vs. asking us here. If you have questions about how a card will grade, there are plenty of people here who can help out with that; simple questions on price can be handled yourself via eBay.
Jim
It's just you. Kidding aside, most people would probably use that term to describe something they got from a recently passed relative. I was thinking the same thing though about it being a bunch of low value common, relatively new cards, something like a kid would own. I would never assume someone inherited their kid's collection if they died though.
Better stuff is starting to surface, I see, but still looks like a typical early-mid 90s collection, maybe with one (or more?) better older cards (like the Montane RC) purchased or gifted from someone else?
My apologies if my premature compassion offended anyone.
Arthur
I wasn’t sure if eBay was accurate or not...so how does card grading work? Do I have to take it out of the packaging? I wouldn’t want to damage it..
Looks like it’s just in a penny sleeve in a top loader in a sealed bag, so there’s no real danger in removing it from the packaging If done carefully (it’s not like other cards that come sealed from the manufacturer, where breaking the seal introduces fears of tampering, fakes, etc.). You can usually just tilt the top loader and the card slides out very easily - don’t let it go flying out! Gently slide it out of the top loader then the penny sleeve and hold it carefully by the edges - don’t touch the corners and limit how much you touch the surfaces. If you’re considering grading, I‘d recommend taking it out to inspect, and check the PSA grading standards: https://www.psacard.com/resources/gradingstandards
You’re going to tend to over-grade your own cards in the early days, so be very critical of everything and try not to talk yourself into not seeing something. And don’t ignore the backs of the cards. It’s very easy to say, “Yeah, but given the age of this card, how many better ones can there be? It’s got be a 9.” Search on eBay for cards that look like they’re similar in corner condition, centering, etc. - that might give you an idea about what your card will grade. Then you can see what they’re going for and determine if the grading costs are worth it to you.
Corners on your Montana are tough to see - I don’t see anything obvious, but it’s tough given the packaging and the coloring. Edges look good, but it’s off center both left to right and top to bottom - not significantly, but enough that a PSA 9 or 10 is probably out of the question regardless of perfect corners, edges, and surfaces. L to R centering looks right on the edge of PSA 8 limits.
There are lots of people here who can offer grading opinions, so if you post pics when it’s out of the top loader we can chime in based on centering, edges, and corners. Surfaces are tougher here - pics don’t show smudges, wrinkles, etc.
Jim
In order to compare prices on ebay, make sure to search sold items. The green numbers will be the price that the item actually sold for. It is very accurate, and sometimes much more accurate than looking at current buy it now auctions that could have inflated asking prices.
Don
>
Successful transactions on the BST boards with rtimmer, coincoins, gerard, tincup, tjm965, MMR, mission16, dirtygoldman, AUandAG, deadmunny, thedutymon, leadoff4, Kid4HOF03, BRI2327, colebear, mcholke, rpcolettrane, rockdjrw, publius, quik, kalinefan, Allen, JackWESQ, CON40, Griffeyfan2430, blue227, Tiggs2012, ndleo, CDsNuts, ve3rules, doh, MurphDawg, tennessebanker, and gene1978.
In your first picture, it looks like you have an 84 topps factory set. If you do wind up grading any of the other cards (like the Montana), take a looksie at the HOFers from your 84 topps set (Ryan, Ripken, Brett, Gwynn, Henderson ) plus the Mattingly, Rose, and Murphy. They will sell rather easily if graded 9 and will get really good $ if they are 10's.
Always buying Bobby Cox inserts. PM me.
They have a pill for that Arthur.
Ok thanks, I’ve order new holders and I’ll transfer them when they come in...maybe take a few more pictures so you all can see them better..I have a few other cards that were in some book in sleeves as well..baseball cards..
Well, going backwards again now. All those recent images are overproduced stuff. Fun for filler and such, but no real value to speak of.