Bricked cards
Porkins
Posts: 611 ✭✭✭
Hiya fellas,
Quick question: if a particular 90’s issue box/packs are known to be susceptible to the bricked card syndrome, is it a 100% type thing, or can you often find a “normal” box based on where the box has been stored all these years?
Thanks
0
Comments
I'd Say...... Hit or Miss
2001 TOPPS BB, 1993 UD BB
Thanks Magicpapa, guess I’ve just been really unlucky lately.
I’ve definitely encountered it in 93 UD, that’s for sure.
DARN UV COATINGS!!
It is my opinion that for most mid to late 90s (and even well into the 2000s) unopened product and factory sets containing cards with UV coating, they should be purchased with the assumption that you are just buying a colorful, decorative box actually containing only 1988 Donruss cards inside.
As long as you keep them factory sealed and unopened, no one is wiser to the ruse. Once opened, even if I'm proven wrong and there aren't really any 1988 Donruss cards there, plan on whatever brick that you have in your possession likely being worth just as much.
What is the "bricked card syndrome"?
The card surfaces are stuck together due to the glue-like coating thus forming a "brick" of cards.
Thanks. I just pulled apart a bunch of those cards. YUCK!
this is a mild case
https://youtu.be/V1bnDH9YpIo
It definitely depends on how the cards were stored over the years. It's a chemical bond that, despite internet urban legends, cannot be reversed by freezing the cards/packs. Some issues are far more susceptible than others. I have yet to rip a single pack of mid- to late-'90s Skybox product (Thunder, Metal Universe, etc.) that wasn't bricked. At the same time, I've ripped regular Skybox and Fleer products from the same era and never had a problem.
It's definitely frequent enough where I wouldn't spend $300 on a box of cards, even if I didn't plan on opening them.
Arthur
Over the years, cards got stored in high-heat/high-humidity environments and this eventually broke down the glossy coating on the cards. When the cards returned to a cooler temperature the glossy surfaces had formed a chemical bond, fusing the cards together.
There are varying degrees to how severe the bond is but almost all circumstances result in surface damage when the cards are separated.
Arthur
94 Ultra Football.
Thanks for the additional comments/info guys. Don’t know if anyone else does this, but as soon as I open 2-3 packs and see what’s happened, it’s straight to the garbage with it for me, no matter the cost. Because for once, I can guarantee, whatever card I was looking for was gonna be in that particular box.
This brings up a good question. If selling a factory set as a sealed factory set and the buyer opens it, what happens if the cards inside are bricked or damaged Entitled to a return? Normally factory sets are not opened, at least most collectors leave them as such and assemble a hand collated set for their collection.
Return? Hell no. If you buy a wax box and the cards aren't gem mint do you return the wax box? If the factory set is sealed you're getting what you're buying. What you do after that is on you.
Arthur
With my experience the 1991 Stadium Club was the original offender.
I took a break from collecting for a number of years, and when I returned, I felt it necessary to acquire compete sets of Topps baseball to fill in the gaps. I have them all placed in albums, because I wanted to be able to periodically flip through them and actually enjoy the cards. While I would purchase hand collated sets on occasion, sometimes I'd find a deal where it made just as much sense to buy factory sets and bust them open to place in the albums, especially with some having the exclusive bonus cards inside. That's where I learned 2 important things, one of which is being discussed here, which is the high probability that the cards are bricked together.
The second thing, not all of those factory sets are actually "complete". I have had the misfortune of opening 3 different factory sealed Topps sets that were missing 1 or 2 cards. They weren't particularly anyone of consequence, and I was usually easily able to find the cards elsewhere to fill the missing slot.
The one exception was 2007. That set had 2 card numbers that were released with a certain player on it in the retail product, but when the factory sets were issued, they swapped out 2 different players on those card numbers. I don't recall offhand the other card number where this occurs, but number 636 in the retail product was Mike Rabelo.
.
The factory sets were then supposed to contain the swapped out players. In this instance, 636 in the factory set was Billy Butler.
.
As you can probably guess, my factory set was actually missing both of those 2 swapped cards completely. No card number 636 or the other number that I can't remember. Being that this was 2012 when I'm undertaking this project, Billy Butler was OUR All-Star in the game being held right here in Kansas City. It was indeed a plentiful card in this area, but the only way to get this card was to break a factory set, and being his rookie, the price was rediculous. (Even now, I took a screen grab of this card from COMC, and it would be nearly $20 with shipping.) I easily filled the other missing number from a broken factory set, but never did get the Butler to finish that set off. In the end, I just got so frustrated trying to get that one stupid card that when the opportunity appeared for me to buy a second complete 2007 factory set already in an album with ultra pro platinum pages, and saw that it indeed included the Butler, for a ridiculously cheap price, I just went ahead and got it. The first set, minus the Butler, hasn't been touched since.
Also, 2 other factory sets that I opened contained 1 or 2 examples of extra duplicate cards. I'm not talking about the parallels or the bonus cards, just duplicates of random base cards, which then you would have to figure are missing from another set they boxed up.
The moral of the story is, once again, you're just paying big money for a colorful, decorative box. You can only hope that they're indeed all in there, and then also that they haven't turned into a worthless brick. As long as you never open it, you can maintain the illusion.
The other 2007 card that they switched was #492.
In retail, it was Michael Barrett.
.
The player depicted on card #492 in the factory set was John Buck. Being another Royal, and off the team by this point, I was able to find him easily.
I agree with you. Thanks for the comment. But Ebay being what it is, if a factory set was sold as sealed and the buyer opens it for whatever reason, if the cards are bricked or not 10's are they entitled to a return based on the "not as described' reason? With Ebay it is a buyers market and the rules favor them. An opened factory set should not qualify to be returned as it is no longer a factory set. I would think if you sell it as a factory set and that's what they get, once opened it is not a factory set and it's on the buyer from that point on. I have some 03 Topps Basketball factory sets and no way would I sell on Ebay for this very reason. Or any sealed wax product. Let the potential buyer examine in person all they want then buyer/seller can both leave in agreement. I will take less for them for the peace of mind of not having to deal with the "not as described" foolishness games of Ebay.
Thanks for your 2 useful posts with that information. I was unaware of this. I will inform my friends who have these sets of these changes.
I believe this was more than a one year occurrence when comparing the checklists printed on the bottom of a Topps factory set to hand collated sets from packs, as far as making a few player changes on certain card numbers. I can't recall off the top of my head which years or players, though.
It just so happened that in 2007, for whatever reason, my particular set was missing both of the factory set variations. I've never found anyone else that was missing these 2 particular cards from their 2007 factory sets, and I've talked to quite a few Royals fans that would have been busting them open for the Butler card. They were always included in theirs.
I have had discussions with others, though, that have opened a random year sealed factory set and were either missing cards or received duplicates, so it's not as rare as you might believe. You'll never know what's actually inside until you open it.
Tough call. Seems like eBay will side with the buyer over anything for any reason. I would like to think that a well-described listing by a reputable dealer with proper caveats would protect them, along with some quality communication with eBay, but you're right, it's eBay and it's a barren wasteland of logic.
I agree, I wouldn't unload something high-dollar like that on eBay. In fact, the vast majority of my past sales have all occurred on message board B/S/T forums.
Arthur
I agree with you. Thanks for the comment. But Ebay being what it is, if a factory set was sold as sealed and the buyer opens it for whatever reason, if the cards are bricked or not 10's are they entitled to a return based on the "not as described' reason? With Ebay it is a buyers market and the rules favor them. An opened factory set should not qualify to be returned as it is no longer a factory set. I would think if you sell it as a factory set and that's what they get, once opened it is not a factory set and it's on the buyer from that point on. I have some 03 Topps Basketball factory sets and no way would I sell on Ebay for this very reason. Or any sealed wax product. Let the potential buyer examine in person all they want then buyer/seller can both leave in agreement. I will take less for them for the peace of mind of not having to deal with the "not as described" foolishness games of Ebay.
I sold a 2001 Topps factory set on eBay some years ago. Buyer opened it and they were bricked. They filed a complaint and I had to refund their purchase. Still have the returned set somewhere. Ugh.
I think you answered your own question.
Arthur
I have yet to find a 2001 Series 2 box that hasn't been bricked.
Thanks,
David (LD_Ferg)
1985 Topps Football (starting in psa 8) - #9 - started 05/21/06
I wonder if heat would work? Putting the cards in the oven at 160 degrees for a while might soften the gloss?
PSA Authentic Altered!
Shane
OK, don't put them in the oven, put them out in the sun for a while. ;-)
Good idea in July if you live in Arizona. 110+ degrees. You'll save money on not using the oven. Emoji to remind one of wearing shades there.
A buddy of mine moved there from Minnesota years ago. I visited a couple of times. It's ALREADY 110 degrees there and it's only May!
Does anyone here have any experience breaking a 1987 Fleer Glossy set? I have been told the cards stick together a little, but not enough to damage them.
I am thinking of opening one and wondering what kitchen appliance I should use, if any. ;-)
I've opened numerous '87 Fleer Glossy sets, both base and Update, and I've never had a problem with the cards sticking together.
Arthur
Thanks for the fast response. I found a guy locally who has a couple of sealed sets for $65 each. Will be opening one for sure.
Not sure if I will open the second, but I just love the look of these.
Kind of feel like a kid on Christmas eve! ;-)
Joe
I've got my stash. Wish I had bought more.
Arthur
Invite me over! I'll bring Rib-Eyes or whatever you like to eat, and let's rip some!
;-)
Bricking and Sticking Baseball or Trading Cards? Read on . . .
You spent your hard-earned money on that classic complete-set of Trading Cards only to find that the cards are "bricked" and stuck together. You've cringed as you heard the "cracking" noise when you tried to slightly bend them, you've tried the freezer method, and other methods, but your Trading Cards still pull apart leaving "spotting" on the cards making the cards WORTHLESS!
Think 1993 Upper Deck Derek Jeter Rookie or 1994 Tops Alex Rodriguez Draft Pick cards!
Check out our YouTube "shorts" videos showing "bricked" 1994 Topps Baseball cards being separated effectively. Subscribe and share with every Trading Card collector, so they too can enjoy their prized investments and avoid trashing them altogether.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/t4qfUZ4m4fI
As you watch the video, keep in mind that you have to apply the technique to one card at a at time.
I've never seen the blow dryer technique.
Interesting.
I do this.
I bought a couple of small sets of cards with a Griffey Jr, (and other superstars). Cards were foil and stuck together badly. Ruined a few.
The wife had an extra hair dryer and I heated the cards. They came apart beautifully!
The first card separated quickly and flew through the air, landed on the floor ruining a corner.
Welcome to the boards!
Wow, a blast from the past!! I have heard of freezing cards. (never worked for me) but have never heard of heating them up. I will have to try it some day.
George Brett, Roger Clemens and Tommy Brady.
NEW #Windex Solution to Unbrick & Unstick Trading / Baseball Cards!!!
@TopDecks82 made an earlier post about using the "Hair Dryer Method" with some success. However, my son and I discovered this New "#Windex Solution" to Unbrick & Unstick Trading / Baseball Cards!!! 90% success rate on bricked and sticking 2002 Topps Baseball card set we recently bought!!!
Check out our YouTube Channel and the New "#Windex Solution" for unblocking and unsticking trading / baseball cards:
https://youtube.com/shorts/X54RXmAW0RI?si=2eYTBwbxMA3AGfm3
Be sure to Subscribe and Share with others who are struggling to save valuable complete sets that are bricked and stuck together.
~ @TopDecks82
Windex can contain solvents. NEVER use solvents unless you are prepared to damage the surface of the card.