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Peace Dollar Collection

1987WheatCent1987WheatCent Posts: 31 ✭
in Q & A Forum

Hi All,

I have decided to pivot from collecting Wheat Pennies to collecting Peace Dollars moving forward. I am still deciding on what would be the best category of Peace Dollar to procure as a collection, and was wondering what suggestions you had.

I am currently on the fence between collecting Rainbow-toned Peace Dollars, highly-graded PGCS/NGC Peace Dollars, or 1928 Peace Dollars.

Any suggestions are welcome! Thank you in advance.

Comments

  • Rgt1Rgt1 Posts: 2 ✭

    I personally do not see the appeal of toned coins. When I invest in my collection, I purchase by quality and rarity. I have very few toned coins.

  • JimWJimW Posts: 563 ✭✭✭✭

    I assume the OP has some affinity for rainbow toned Peace $1; otherwise it would not be an option under consideration.
    There are a number of factors in the decision, for example, for a given budget collecting higher grade coins will mean fewer coins in general but with great luster, minimal marks, etc. On the other hand, attractive rainbow Peace in say MS64 are pretty affordable and your collection would probably comprise more coins in comparison.
    Ultimately, whatever gives you the most enjoyment in both finding and owning the coins.
    Maybe go after rainbow, high grade, 1928 Peace dollars :o

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  • winestevenwinesteven Posts: 4,548 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I suggest “high” grade based on your budget with each having high luster and high eye appeal, accompanied by CAC stickers.

    A day without fine wine and working on your coin collection is like a day without sunshine!!!

    My collecting “Pride & Joy” is my PCGS Registry Dansco 7070 Set:
    https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/type-sets/design-type-sets/complete-dansco-7070-modified-type-set-1796-date/publishedset/213996
  • 1987WheatCent1987WheatCent Posts: 31 ✭

    @Rgt1 said:
    I personally do not see the appeal of toned coins. When I invest in my collection, I purchase by quality and rarity. I have very few toned coins.

    Why add this in here, without answering the question? Not very helpful to randomly interject while talking about yourself. I suspect a troll account here.

  • TheRacoonTheRacoon Posts: 3 ✭

    There is little chance to choose the bottom in prices. In 1972 I bought 10 higher grade Morgan and peace dollars. Right now they aren’t worth what I paid for them then. I started back this year and am buying any I find close to spot, go through them keep the best and sell the rest. If I get a coin that will make a higher grade I will send them to be graded. I plan to take the profit from the sales to reduce my cost of the ones I keep. You may only keep 1 in 25-30 coins. I do it this way because I enjoy looking through the coins and the pleasure of finding the ones I like.

  • TheRacoonTheRacoon Posts: 3 ✭

    I think if you do it this way you may find you really like toned or dislike them, at that time you choose. Also you may find a different nitch you want to follow.

  • jerseycat101jerseycat101 Posts: 1,350 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @TheRacoon said:
    There is little chance to choose the bottom in prices. In 1972 I bought 10 higher grade Morgan and peace dollars. Right now they aren’t worth what I paid for them then. I started back this year and am buying any I find close to spot, go through them keep the best and sell the rest. If I get a coin that will make a higher grade I will send them to be graded. I plan to take the profit from the sales to reduce my cost of the ones I keep. You may only keep 1 in 25-30 coins. I do it this way because I enjoy looking through the coins and the pleasure of finding the ones I like.

    Hi @TheRacoon,

    The method of collecting you describe could certainly be construed as enjoyable in some circles, proverbially speaking. However, I believe you will struggle to find high grade examples of silver dollars in extant rolls, as these rolls have been pored over by numismatists, presumably some more experiened than you, over the last few decades. That being said, the thrill in finding such a coin would be immeasurable on any scale, including the EQ-5D-5L.

  • TheRacoonTheRacoon Posts: 3 ✭

    I know you are correct for the most part but last week I got an Au 55 “I think “ that I got from a pawn shop that I made friends with @ $18.00 I am going to send it in for grading. I may be wrong they will tell me. Your statement that others with more experience than I would have found the good ones is realistic since the only thing with less experience than I is the wooden Indian out front of the restaurant I dine at from time to time. I am here to read what others are saying and learn from them as interested in coins as I am.

  • jerseycat101jerseycat101 Posts: 1,350 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @TheRacoon said:
    I know you are correct for the most part but last week I got an Au 55 “I think “ that I got from a pawn shop that I made friends with @ $18.00 I am going to send it in for grading. I may be wrong they will tell me. Your statement that others with more experience than I would have found the good ones is realistic since the only thing with less experience than I is the wooden Indian out front of the restaurant I dine at from time to time. I am here to read what others are saying and learn from them as interested in coins as I am.

    What is the date and mint of this silver dollar? It may not be worthy of submission.

  • CharlieCoinGuyCharlieCoinGuy Posts: 12 ✭

    I would do a PCGS/NGC graded year/mint mark combo. That's nice because no matter your budget, you can always keep on upgrading it.

    1921 HIGH RELIEF
    1922-P-D-S
    1923-P-D-S
    1924-P-S
    1925-P-S
    1926-P-D-S
    1927-P-D-S
    1928-P-S
    1934-P-D-S
    1935-P-S

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