Better, Worse or Same?

billwaltonsbeard

Question for you guys with more vintage expertise than I possess....

If the back of a checklist card has previously been marked with a pencil, but the pencil marks have been erased, is this better, worse or the same as if the marks were still there?

There are no indentations of the marks, but the surface clearly indicates that the marks were erased.

All opinions/insight appreciated.

doubledragon

Depends on what kind of collector you are. Some collectors don't care because they just like to collect. Some obsess over stuff like that until it drives them mad. It just all depends on the collector.

nam812

The short easy answer is that it's now worse. I don't have enough info to be more accurate, but here are some thoughts:

If it's an expensive hard to find checklist for your personal collection, It's same.

If you bought it as unmarked, and noticed it, it's worse.

If you are subbing it to PSA, it's worse.

I can't come up with a scenario where it's better.

Hope that helps.

krisd3279

It seems better to leave the mark as is. It has become part of the card now and part of the history. It was probably marked by some young kid around the time the card was produced. Erasing it just makes it worse in my opinion.

craig44

I would leave it as is.

DBesse27

@krisd3279 said:
It seems better to leave the mark as is. It has become part of the card now and part of the history. It was probably marked by some young kid around the time the card was produced. Erasing it just makes it worse in my opinion.

Agree. And by erasing, you’re taking away some of the original ink/paper as well.

nam812

All those that keep saying dont erase it, I felt like the OP indicated that it has already been erased.

miwlvrn

If you are interested in grading said card, then you get a numerical grade with a marked (MK) qualifier if marked, and if erased, the best you can get is Authentic with an "Altered" qualifier. From a registry points perspective, a 2 (Q), 1.5 (Q), Poor 1 (NQ), 1 (Q), A (NQ) and A (Q) all get you the equivalent score of a 1 on your points, even though there is certainly a hierarchy to these grades from a sales perspective. BTW, yes, a 1.5 is the only half-grade with which you can still receive a Q.

DBesse27

@miwlvrn said:
If you are interested in grading said card, then you get a numerical grade with a marked (MK) qualifier if marked, and if erased, the best you can get is Authentic with an "Altered" qualifier. From a registry points perspective, a 2 (Q), 1.5 (Q), Poor 1 (NQ), 1 (Q), A (NQ) and A (Q) all get you the equivalent score of a 1 on your points, even though there is certainly a hierarchy to these grades from a sales perspective. BTW, yes, a 1.5 is the only half-grade with which you can still receive a Q.

Add 3Q to this list. That counts like the rest of them

LarkinCollector

@DBesse27 said:

@miwlvrn said:
If you are interested in grading said card, then you get a numerical grade with a marked (MK) qualifier if marked, and if erased, the best you can get is Authentic with an "Altered" qualifier. From a registry points perspective, a 2 (Q), 1.5 (Q), Poor 1 (NQ), 1 (Q), A (NQ) and A (Q) all get you the equivalent score of a 1 on your points, even though there is certainly a hierarchy to these grades from a sales perspective. BTW, yes, a 1.5 is the only half-grade with which you can still receive a Q.

Add 3Q to this list. That counts like the rest of them

3Qs only get a one point deduction for registry purposes (no multiplier on this card) ...

DBesse27

If that’s true then I think I have cards that are being miscalculated!