When a psa 10 and 9 are close in price, do you always buy the 10?

thisistheshow

I am a coin guy, and recently posted asking about my interest in starting a Jim Rice collection. You all gave me great advice.

I've been looking at his cards, and many of them are not much more for a 10 than a 9. With exceptions, of course. I know this question might be strange, but is there any reason to buy the 9. For example, do people build sets all in one grade,etc.

Any advice is appreciated.

Stone193

Good question - I'm speaking solely for myself.

I would rarely buy a 10 due to the high cost vs a really nice 9 (this would also be if a 9 were miles higher than a nice 8).

In BB, HOFers - 10s are a bit or a lot more than a 9. If on a budget - a Biggio UD RC in 10 is around 30 bucks vs around 10 for a really nice 9. That's a 67% savings.

Except on cards like Biggio e.g., I usually stick with the 9. Just compare the cost of a 9 vs 10 with 83T Gwynn e.g.

LarkinCollector

Yes, some people build sets in one grade, mostly factory and not player though. If the price difference is negligible to you, I'd always go for the higher grade.

PopeyesSpinach

If the price is close then I'll always go for the 10. Of course the 10 would have to be a true 10. No sliders allowed.

thisistheshow

@PopeyesSpinach said:
If the price is close then I'll always go for the 10. Of course the 10 would have to be a true 10. No sliders allowed.

I think this is where I hesitate. I need to be able to recognize the sliders.

swish54

I agree with the others, all things equal on the card, and if the price is minimal...whatever that means for your budget, I'd always go with the 10 because it'll be easier to sell in the event that you need/want to get rid of it down the road.

PatsGuy5000

Typically will buy the 10, especially for newer cards. Cards that are numbered, autographed, or rare - I will go with a 9

stevegarveyfan

Usually.

NGS428

Yes