at what price point do you consider grading cards, vintage stars & hof's specifically?

if selling on ebay

at what price point do you consider grading cards, vintage stars & hof's specifically? 9 votes

over 50 less than 100
55% 5 votes
over 100 less than 250
11% 1 vote
250+
33% 3 votes

I fill want lists; PM me. I'm not ignoring you if I don't get back to you right away but I will respond generally within a day.

{Let's do it off eBay and both save some $$$ }

Comments

  • PROMETHIUS88PROMETHIUS88 Posts: 1,975 ✭✭✭✭

    There is no "under 50" category?!?!? What gives?? Why no love for the low end stuff?? Personally, I will have any card slabbed say $20-25 or more. I find that a vg-ex star/hofer may go for virtually nothing raw but throw it in a holder and you will get true money for it. I will sub cards that sell raw for $10-12 in bulk subs that turn into $25 cards. Not a huge difference after grading fees, etc but sending in a lot of cards, it can add up.

  • I don’t sell anything on eBay but generally send in anything over $100 and over $50 goes in a bulk pile for future consideration. Instructions on How to consign to PWCC is in a prominent place for my heirs to find so they can liquidate pretty easily without getting screwed on value.

  • @PROMETHIUS88 said:
    There is no "under 50" category?!?!? What gives?? Why no love for the low end stuff?? Personally, I will have any card slabbed say $20-25 or more. I find that a vg-ex star/hofer may go for virtually nothing raw but throw it in a holder and you will get true money for it. I will sub cards that sell raw for $10-12 in bulk subs that turn into $25 cards. Not a huge difference after grading fees, etc but sending in a lot of cards, it can add up.

    I tried to edit post for under 50, but it wouldn't let me. Do you do auctions or fixed price on your low end stuff?

    I fill want lists; PM me. I'm not ignoring you if I don't get back to you right away but I will respond generally within a day.

    {Let's do it off eBay and both save some $$$ }

  • PROMETHIUS88PROMETHIUS88 Posts: 1,975 ✭✭✭✭

    @tonylags said:

    I tried to edit post for under 50, but it wouldn't let me. Do you do auctions or fixed price on your low end stuff?

    I have gone to nearly everything as fixed price anymore. I also try to keep my prices below what others have the same cards listed and in line with other "sold" prices. I will adjust accordingly up or down for cards with better eye appeal or off-centered/problem cards that have straight grades.

  • yoda99yoda99 Posts: 180 ✭✭✭

    I will have cards graded that are only worth $10 bucks or more if I like them enough. Perfect example is a 1968 Ray Nitschke that I recently had graded. I paid about $12 for it raw because I didn't want to put out $100 for one. It just came back and here it is. I wanted all of the 1968 packer cards in psa holders and with decent centering. So, this card cost me about $22 with the grading fee added in. Look at the PSA 6 prices out there for this Nitschke card and those cards have crappy centering.


  • krisd3279krisd3279 Posts: 362 ✭✭✭

    If you are planning on selling it on eBay then any card where:

    Raw Cost + Grading fees, shipping, etc. < Graded Card Value (what you can actually sell it for)

    I'm not sure there is a dollar limit here on either the raw card or the graded card. I think both need to be taken into account as well as the grading fees involved to come up with some sort of profit margin. In my opinion the limit goes on the profit margin. If there is a margin of $5 then it's probably not worth the time to do it. If you are selling on eBay some of your margin will get eaten up in selling fees, etc.

    If you are grading it for the protection and are planning to keep it then anything goes. Do what you like. If it's a card I like I might grade it at a loss just to get it in a holder.

    Kris

    My 1971 Topps adventure - Davis Men in Black

  • PROMETHIUS88PROMETHIUS88 Posts: 1,975 ✭✭✭✭

    @krisd3279 said:
    If you are planning on selling it on eBay then any card where:

    Raw Cost + Grading fees, shipping, etc. < Graded Card Value (what you can actually sell it for)

    I'm not sure there is a dollar limit here on either the raw card or the graded card. I think both need to be taken into account as well as the grading fees involved to come up with some sort of profit margin. In my opinion the limit goes on the profit margin. If there is a margin of $5 then it's probably not worth the time to do it. If you are selling on eBay some of your margin will get eaten up in selling fees, etc.

    If you are grading it for the protection and are planning to keep it then anything goes. Do what you like. If it's a card I like I might grade it at a loss just to get it in a holder.

    Agreed with most points here. I recently sent in 50-60 1980's-90's Jordan cards that I expect 95%+ to get 10's. Ungraded those are hard to move at $1 but 10's will get $15-30 for most of them. I may throw a few back. I don't really collect Jordan but have a few 10's that I like.
    I am also doing the 62 Jell-O set in PSA. 60% come back as only "authentic" and probably not worth the grading fee, but I don't mind paying the price to have them all uniform.

  • JoeBanzaiJoeBanzai Posts: 4,848 ✭✭✭✭

    Anything over $100 or so or if it's going into my Killebrew registry set.

    2013,14 and 15 Certificate Award Winner Harmon Killebrew Master Set and Master Topps Set
  • akuracy503akuracy503 Posts: 1,850 ✭✭✭

    I don’t bother buying raw vintage with the intent to send in for grading. But if I did it’d have to be over $500 value.

Sign In or Register to comment.