At what point do you...

NGS428

Accept a lower grade card to complete your sets?...

I have been collecting 10’s in my 90’s and 00’s basic registry sets. Most of the cards I have left to acquire are low pops, 10 or less, with many 5 or less. These sell on the bay for $50 to $300 each, with very little inventory surfacing. This is more than I am willing to pay (with a few exceptions). So I have been taking a look at some 9’s, prices are closer to $10 to $30 for the same cards. The 9’s in most cases have a lower pop.

I don’t see myself getting to #1 on the registry. I feel like getting a 9 is giving up on the quest.. talk me through this.

ZTarg

What I would do is...

NGS428

@ZTarg said:
What I would do is...

Keeping me in suspense.. I like that.

Wait...

GreenSneakers

I'd get a nice 9 to satisfy my OCD about incomplete sets, which would allow me to wait out a nice 10 at a good price. Once upgraded, flip the 9.

LOTSOS

Not sure what you collect but is buying wax and ripping it an option? 90s should be plentiful and 2000s still available. I have an 85' T Hockey set that I've built with wax. There are enough big hits to cover the cost plus long term I'm sitting on multiple sets that would grade 9 easy plus I have many doubles that would grade 10s but some are Pop 1s (which I own) or very low pop so I'm content sitting on them for now.

Kevin

NGS428

@LOTSOS said:
Not sure what you collect but is buying wax and ripping it an option? 90s should be plentiful and 2000s still available. I have an 85' T Hockey set that I've built with wax. There are enough big hits to cover the cost plus long term I'm sitting on multiple sets that would grade 9 easy plus I have many doubles that would grade 10s but some are Pop 1s (which I own) or very low pop so I'm content sitting on them for now.

Kevin

I am collecting strictly player sets.

I think that was a question I have asked before and the consensus was buying graded will be lower cost in the long run than ripping and submitting.

NGS428

@GreenSneakers said:
I'd get a nice 9 to satisfy my OCD about incomplete sets, which would allow me to wait out a nice 10 at a good price. Once upgraded, flip the 9.

The OCD is surely part of it.

I got a 9 to complete one of my sets. One 10 popped up but it went for crazy money..

maddux69

I am ok with having a 9 for certain cards in which a 10 is cost prohibitive. Take for instance 1993 Finest refractors, I have a 9 that I self subbed and I am ok keeping it rather than pay around $1200 for a PSA 10. If you can find decent copies raw, try getting the 10 by subbing and even if you get a 9 you will have the satisfaction of having your hand in the process.

divecchia

I will buy a PSA 9 for some cards that are low pop 10's or cost prohibitive cards until a PSA 10 comes around that I can win or pickup at the right price.

Good luck with your sets. Donato

NGS428

@maddux69 said:
I am ok with having a 9 for certain cards in which a 10 is cost prohibitive. Take for instance 1993 Finest refractors, I have a 9 that I self subbed and I am ok keeping it rather than pay around $1200 for a PSA 10. If you can find decent copies raw, try getting the 10 by subbing and even if you get a 9 you will have the satisfaction of having your hand in the process.

@divecchia said:
I will buy a PSA 9 for some cards that are low pop 10's or cost prohibitive cards until a PSA 10 comes around that I can win or pickup at the right price.

Good luck with your sets. Donato

Thanks guys. I think I just need to set a limit on what I would spend on a card and bid on 10 if in the range, else go the 9 route.

skrezyna23

@NGS428 said:

@LOTSOS said:
Not sure what you collect but is buying wax and ripping it an option? 90s should be plentiful and 2000s still available. I have an 85' T Hockey set that I've built with wax. There are enough big hits to cover the cost plus long term I'm sitting on multiple sets that would grade 9 easy plus I have many doubles that would grade 10s but some are Pop 1s (which I own) or very low pop so I'm content sitting on them for now.

Kevin

I am collecting strictly player sets.

I think that was a question I have asked before and the consensus was buying graded will be lower cost in the long run than ripping and submitting.

I agree that buying boxes and ripping to get your player in a 10 is cost prohibitive. Buy the 9 you are happy with and move on. There are several Basic Set Registry Mattinglys I need in a 10 but am not about to go looking for boxes to buy to try and rip packs hoping for a 10.

jfkheat

I only collect vintage cards and small sets. If I am doing a set in 8 or better and get down to needing a couple cards to finish it, I'll wait until one becomes available in the grade I'm looking for.