Need Advice on Removing Tape Residue from Large Cents
jafo50
Posts: 331 ✭✭✭
I inherited a Whitman book of large cents where the cents were taped into the album. I'm assuming it's because the coins didn't fit securely into the holes. Out of the two Whitman books only the earlier coins were taped in. Is there a safe way to remove the tape residue from there early coppers without destroying their value or is it too late? It's not your usual Scotch brand tape but almost like an old 'bulldog' tape used 'back in the day'.
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default to insiders statements .....
Soak the entire book in distilled water as a first step! Change the water each day. Then we'll take the next step as needed.
[Edited to remove my first statement - agree with @Insider2 ] Looks like there is some "extra" tape that you could remove and experiment with first.
Pacific Northwest Numismatic Association
DO NOT USE ACETONE AS A FIRST STEP!
PS I've had a little experience with coins taped in folders.
@Insider2 I had read about the negative effect of acetone on these early coppers. I have distilled water so I'll give that a try first.
Thanks
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Best of luck with these, but since it appears it's been on there a very long time, I would not
be surprised if there are broad streaks remaining of lighter/different color even after all residues are gone.
Still looks like a neat old set, probably assembled back when prices were very reasonable for circ large cents.
If they were my coins I would remove them from the album and soak them in mineral oil which should dissolve the glue without harm to the coins. It may take several days or months and the mineral oil may need to be changes a few times. Some people use olive oil but that can turn rancid over time.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
@Walkerguy21D It is a nice set. Book 2 is only missing two coins and this book in question only has 13 coins in total. I ordered a new album that covers both the early and later dates.
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Darn - I have a like new Dansco album for large cents that needs a good home....anyway, sounds like you have a good start on the set.
I might be wrong, but I don't think that sort of dried adhesive is particularly acidic, so there may be hope.
Starting to loosen up already but certainly residue is left on the coins.
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You will need to do more to remove the adhesive once they are free of the tape. There is little risk with these coins. When the tape is off, Goo Gone works very well and will not discolor the coins. Drip a few drops and let it sit.
I don't have time to go into this so if you wish, call me between 5 -8 PM at ICG tonight.
@Insider2 PM sent
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So goo gone is citrus oil and isn't there an acidic component present? Peace Roy
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Probably and it kills bugs too. I've not had it change the patina on a large cent yet.
I have experienced acetone changing the color of copper.
Well, I've been soaking one of the coins in Goo Gone for about 15 hours with no effect at all. My goo gone is fairly old which may or may not be a factor. You can still see some of the cloth backing from the tape on the coin. Would acetone be the next step? Has anyone heard of boiling coins to loosen and remove the glue residue?
Here is a current photo of my test subject.
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Try the mineral spirits or turpentine next. Remember, no rubbing.
Soaking in mineral oil for about 3+ weeks should lift the adhesive.
I doubt water will do anything as that looks like prehistoric duct tape.
I like the "L" shaped directional transition using a single piece of tape
I'll give the mineral oil a try next.
Thanks
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Some of the old glue might just chip off if dry.
It probably does with just a fingernail as it is appears hard and dry but the OP is doing it the correct way - slow and easy. A butane torch will remove it also but then it takes a coin doctor to finish the job.
I agree with @Insider2 I've used "Goo Gone" on copper without incident.
Goo gone is largely petroleum distillates. There is no aqueous acid component to it.
Here's the MSDS for those that are curious.
https://googone.com/sds/
Is goo gone similar to lighter fluid? That dissolves some of the oil-based glues.
Pacific Northwest Numismatic Association
Lighter fluid removes tape also. Very often, a long time coin dealer will know all kinds of things to use. There are residues on coins that acetone will not touch. Over the years, I've had a few coins that nothing I tried worked on; however, going down the list of available stuff one at a time will eventually work. Combinations of chemicals work also. Commercial concentrations usually work better/faster than the stuff in the local grocery store.
I wanna see them when done that 25 looks nice
@Smittys I'm waiting for the outcome of the 25 myself. It's a very strong strike on both the obverse and reverse. Of course it needs to be cleaned up and I'm hoping the outcome is good. Here's a few photos with different backgrounds.
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Wow, I hope you can salvage that ‘25, that’s a tough date in xf and up
I see a Doubled L in Liberty
I could make a joke about Ms Liberty on that coin but I won't since I don't want to get banned.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
It is N-10 R-3 The book calls it a die scratch across the "L" but it looks like a double "L" as there is something at the base of the letter also.
Pie in the face variety?
Yea. Something like that.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
This is the best I can capture using my cell phone. Lot of "stuff" cluttering up the photo.
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Never understood: if you DO use acetone are you supposed to rinse with distilled water or find some sort of base to "neutralize" it? Won't "neutralizing" if cause a reaction with heat? Does that not potentially damage the coin?
Yes nice coin hope you can save it as well.
Hoard the keys.
Use a soak in xylene for awhile. It's a strong aromatic petroleum hydrocarbon solvent, not miscible with water and it won't bother copper. Take precautions for flammability and use with good ventilation. Toluene would work the same way, but it's more volatile (evaporates faster and is more flammable), and carries the same precautions.
Mineral oil or mineral spirits are fine, but they aren't as strong a solvent as xylene.
Turpentine might be okay, but it's not a pure material so there may be some components in it that might not be good for copper. On the other hand, today's turpentines are more purified and may be fine. It's a good solvent, and might be good for unknown gunk. Turpentines also contain aromatic hydrocarbon components, but they might have a slightly different solubility for some things, so it's one option to try.
If water didn't work, cross it off the list.
Don't use acetone, unless nothing else works. People don't seem to understand acetone around here. It's great for dissolving some things, but it carries a risk of messing with the contaminants on the copper and causing a washed-out look. It evaporates quickly, so it's real important to use nice, clean acetone. A rinse with D.I. water is fine, but I don't know that it's necessary after acetone. Maybe.
Acetone is not an acid and doesn't need to be neutralized. It's a fast-evaporating solvent in the ketone family, so it will work on some types of residues and not on others.
I knew it would happen.
I appreciate your input jmski and so far the mineral spirits have had no effect but it has only been about18 hours. It's hard to appreciate the thickness of the glue residue from the photos. Its probably thicker that modern day duct tape residue and been there for over 50 years. Anyone have a chisel and hammer?
Joe
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Well all I can say is that proper conservation methods take time as anything that would remove it quickly may also hinder the coin. Maybe pouring boiling distilled water into a small pyrex glass bowl and submerging a cent might loosen the glue? I would still use mineral oil afterward once dry from having been in water.
Please keep us updated, I am fascinated by your progress and hope you can salvage those beautiful coins.
We'll this coin has been soaking in Mineral Spirits for almost 72 hours with no effect at all. It's hard to tell but there might be some tape fabric still bonded to the glue which might inhibit the treatments from actually working on the glue. Next step will be xylene.
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Acetone evaporates completely is my understanding. But, rinsing in distilled water with a pat dry won't hurt and will ensure that any "debris" that is left is washed off.
bob
Will WD40 damage the coin? I have to ask since I often use it to clean off tape residue.
Probably not. I don't think gasoline will hurt it either. I cannot believe it is still on the coin. I'd like to get my hands on one of them.
I was going to try some heat from a soldering gun on a small section to see if the glue softens even a little bit.
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Gasoline is ok, but not acetone?
If you use xylene, try it on your least desirable/valuable coin first, then gauge results. I was in a similar predicament as yours- I had a beat up old gal that was tapped in a Whitman type set I bought. Tape residue similar to yours. I first washed her, dipped her in acetone, and then lost my patience and bought a can of xylene to finish the job....
I'm not an expert on "conserving" coins, and thought I'd take the plunge on getting my feet wet with experience.
The residue you have on your coin is calcified, and you can chip it off with a tooth pick. That's where I lost my patience and got the xylene.
The results were less than desirable from my "inexperience"...coin went in chocolaty brown, and came out with some sort of silver sheen...residue was gone, yet, eye appeal lost with original color. I used acetone as a follow up so maybe that was a factor.
IDK- if there's any wisdom I could share, probably best to send out for professional conservation. No sense damaging a coins appeal with any methods when a coins technical grade is strong, and appeal of originality is intact.
Here's my folly....I don't have a before and after- sorry!
J> @Jcld said:
Acetone is great. I have nothing against it and use it. That is just another step. I did not wish to post this or disagree with the folks who wrote that acetone should be avoided. That statement is nuts!
@PocketArt Yeah, I still see what looks like residue in the crevices of your coin. Looks like it'll be there for eternity. The real goal here is to determine if any of this petrified glue will budge because the 1825 that I posted earlier in this thread could be worth some good money if it cleans up nicely.
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I'd send the 1825 off for professional conservation. What's an extra what...$20-$30 bucks? IDK what PCGS charges, maybe not that; but, I'd let them dink with it- JMO.