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1838 Reeded Edge Bust half (w/grading poll)

lordmarcovanlordmarcovan Posts: 43,671 ✭✭✭✭✭
I laid up an esnipe on this one. It was one of those coins that I liked, but wasn't turning cartwheels over or anything. Looked nice enough for a bid, I figured, if I could get it at a reasonable price. And I think I did. Numismedia trend prices are $86 in F12 and $144 in VF20. The 2012 Red Book says $100 in F12 and $135 in VF20. I won it for mere pennies over the Numismedia Fine price.

And I think it's better than Fine. Look at the feather detail on the eagle. So... is it F15, or VF20? Better? Worse?

That's why I do these polls, aside from the fact they're kind of fun.

There looks as though there might be a tiny rim nick visible at 6:00 on the bottom of the reverse, but that doesn't look to be a major issue at all. And sure, the coin has some circulation marks. I think they are consistent with this grade level, and again, I see nothing there that seems particularly distracting to me. Does the coin look nice and original to you? It does to me. If there was any old cleaning, it was done very long ago, and it's definitely "market acceptable" in my book. I like this kind of grey color on my circ silver. While this isn't a real "black and white" CircCam (Circulation Cameo), it's got light CircCam contrast. And y'all know I'm all about the CircCams.

I think I did OK here, though of course as of this post I have yet to see the coin in hand. What say you?


image


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Comments

  • lordmarcovanlordmarcovan Posts: 43,671 ✭✭✭✭✭
    For the record, I'm going to vote VF20. The seller called it "Extremely Fine". I do not agree with that, but again, considering I paid about F12 money, I did OK on it as a Fine+ and pretty good on it if it grades as a VF.

    This is the first RE Bust half I've bought at a two-figure pricetag that had this kind of detail. (Excluding holeys and problem coins, of course). All the other problem-free examples I've had were mostly EF or better and had three-figure pricetags. I might've had a G-VG coin or two in the past, but this is certainly better than that. I'd call it a "happy medium", grade- and pricewise.

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  • AnkurJAnkurJ Posts: 11,370 ✭✭✭✭
    First impression was VF25. Is there porosity in the fields though? Hard to tell from the images.
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  • lordmarcovanlordmarcovan Posts: 43,671 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Porosity? I didn't get that impression from the seller's pictures, which of course I merged and downsized a bit to make my own image for this thread.

    Here- the seller's original images are a tad larger.

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  • STONESTONE Posts: 15,275
    F-15 for me
  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 34,445 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The sharpness grade is VF. I don't know if the surfaces have some pitting on them or not. If they do then the grade would be lower.

    There no way that this coin is an EF. It's not even close. As for the minor marks you cite, they come with the territory in pieces that have seen some circulation.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • DIMEMANDIMEMAN Posts: 22,403 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I voted vf30 because of the feather detail on rev. Obverse is OK, but probably only vf20.
  • jesbrokenjesbroken Posts: 10,218 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I guess I am in the minority for my pick of genuine. I felt the spots on the obverse might be enviro issues. As far as grade I felt vf30. Maybe the pics are throwing me off, but i imagine a glaze covering obv/rev. Not a bust half whiz, oviously, but my opinion.
    Jim

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  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 34,445 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I guess I am in the minority for my pick of genuine. I felt the spots on the obverse might be enviro issues. As far as grade I felt vf30. Maybe the pics are throwing me off, but i imagine a glaze covering obv/rev. Not a bust half whiz, oviously, but my opinion.
    Jim >>



    You could be right. That's why I hedged my VF-20 grade.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • lordmarcovanlordmarcovan Posts: 43,671 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>There no way that this coin is an EF. It's not even close. As for the minor marks you cite, they come with the territory in pieces that have seen some circulation. >>

    Yep. Those were my thoughts exactly.



    << <i>I guess I am in the minority for my pick of genuine. I felt the spots on the obverse might be enviro issues. As far as grade I felt vf30. Maybe the pics are throwing me off, but i imagine a glaze covering obv/rev. Not a bust half whiz, oviously, but my opinion. >>

    And a perfectly valid opinion it was. I don't think they're that severe, but we shall see. I suppose I'm OK with the calculated risk. I think it'll be OK.

    Like I said before, I thought the coin looked nice enough for a bid. I wasn't turning cartwheels of delight over it, but it looks decent to me. If I decide to submit it and it grades at VF-anything, it's all good. If it goes "Genuine"- eh, well, I took my chances, and I don't think it'll be a huge loss. I think the upside potential is pretty good and the downside potential isn't too bad.

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  • Nice original F15 grade held back by weak Obv Rims. Nothing wrong with that coin that would put it in a Gen holder
  • IrishMikeyIrishMikey Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭
    It appears to have VF-30 details, but the surfaces look a bit rough. I am "net" grading
    the coin VF-20.
  • 25 for me. the wear pattern on the face tells me it's a notch above 20 but not two...
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  • jayPemjayPem Posts: 4,082 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'll wager that the surfaces will be acceptable when it arrives, I'd probably keep it raw though....
  • lordmarcovanlordmarcovan Posts: 43,671 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I might. If I decide I really like it and it's to be a keeper, I might slab it for my new "Budget Box of 20" collection, but otherwise I'll just resell it, probably raw.

    Looks like we have a nearly perfect bell curve goin' on with this poll for the moment. With VF20 being the apogee of the curve.

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  • rheddenrhedden Posts: 6,630 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Crust is bordering on Environmental Damage, though I think it will grade anyway. I kept it at F12, as I don't think it quite has VF obverse details, and the surfaces are a bit too dark for my tastes. Still a nice coin overall, but can't call it "choice".
  • johnny9434johnny9434 Posts: 28,792 ✭✭✭✭✭
    i went vf 35 although it should go vf 25 or so. its kinda hard to tell with the pics image
  • NysotoNysoto Posts: 3,818 ✭✭✭✭✭
    VF central details, weak rims will hold the grade to F12-15 if PCGS grades.
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  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 34,445 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>VF central details, weak rims will hold the grade to F12-15 if PCGS grades. >>



    The weak rim on the obverse is normal for the type. In fact the rims on the 1837 half dollars are weak on both sides, which partially accounts for the modification to the reverse in 1838 ... at least that's my perception.

    If Photobucket was not giving me so much trouble I'd show you.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • HoledandCreativeHoledandCreative Posts: 2,811 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I think you got a decent coin for the money. I call it a F15.
  • 123cents123cents Posts: 7,178 ✭✭✭
    I went with VF-20.
    image
  • The obverse rim is weak due to die fatigue. This reverse is used on both the JR-6 & 7 with the JR-6 being the first use. The JR-6 comes well struck on the obverse in the Early Die Stages but the perimeter fades out as production progresses. JR-6 is the most common of the 1838 varieties. the JR-6 obverse with full dentils will show a very fine circular die crack on the reverse, this one has lumps in the H and between the UN which makes it a late stage of JR-6 as JR-7 when coupled with this reverse has full sharp crisp dentils which develop a cud at star 13 in the later stages but always maintain strong dentils.
    Reeded Edge halves by die variety
  • lordmarcovanlordmarcovan Posts: 43,671 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Coin is in hand now. I see no trace of porosity. It does have its share of circulation marks, but I can accept those. I am satisfied with this purchase.

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