New Camera and pics

rmpsrpms · February 21, 2012 6:23PM

I've been using a Nikon D7000 for over a year now for my coin photos, and before that I used a D5000, so I've been pretty much in the Nikon camp. When I bought the D7000 I gave the D5000 to my wife, and have been using the D7000 for both coin photos and regular photos on trips and such. I have put a lot of time and energy into building my coin photo setup so that I can easily change out the camera from coin setup to walk-around use, but in the last few months I've been getting annoyed having to swap it in and out, and decided to buy a camera body to dedicate to coin photos. But what to buy?

In the last year I've read a lot about the Canon line and how they have a special electronic shutter function that reduces vibration due to the shutter operating. The function is called "Electronic First Shutter Curtain" (EFSC) and while it is not documented as a vibration reduction method by Canon, it is accessed by choosing the "Q" or Quiet mode. I was intrigued, as comparison photos I'd seen showed better sharpness with EFSC activated, especially for macro and super-macro shots (like 5x shots of varieties and such).

Well, I finally decided to pull the trigger and buy a Canon T2i, and it is now a permanent fixture on my coin photo setup. I've taken about 60 pics with it so far, and it has worked great. I'm finding it to produce slightly sharper images than the D7000, and better color fidelity (closer to real life colors), but with poorer immunity to over-exposed highlights. This has taken some getting used to, but I think my last few images have equaled my earlier Nikon images for exposure and exceeded them for sharpness and color, so I thought it might be time to share.

Here's a coin from a toned roll of 1957-D Lincoln Cents. I kept 19 coins from the OBW roll this came from, and had photographed about half of them with the Nikon before getting the Canon. This coin is #13 from the roll:

Tonedlover · February 21, 2012 6:27PM

Wow! That is a fantastic image!

melvin289 · February 21, 2012 6:58PM

What a great picture! If I could take photos like that I would charge people to look at them.

Is that a small die crack between the "S" and "T" in trust?

Ron

frnklnlvr · February 21, 2012 9:32PM

Great image!

<< Is that a small die crack between the "S" and "T" in trust? >>

Looks more like a die scratch to me.

morgansforever · February 21, 2012 9:41PM

Spectacutlar image, talk about nailing a pic, my goodness.

coinnut · February 21, 2012 9:50PM

Amazing image and coin!!

lasvegasteddy · February 21, 2012 9:59PM

very-very stunning to say the least...great lil lincoln too...

notwilight · February 21, 2012 11:08PM

My canon dslr is about 4 yrs old and could probably use an upgrade. Since I already have all the canon macros I can buy the body only which looks like $499 at BH photo. I'll probably pick one up. I love it when other people do the research for me. Thanks, Jerry

keyman64 · February 21, 2012 11:22PM

Well done!

ricko · February 21, 2012 11:41PM

Outstanding picture... Cheers, RickO

rmpsrpms · February 21, 2012 11:48PM

Thanks everyone. The coin is obviously raw. What do you think it would grade?

kimber45ACP · February 22, 2012 1:45AM

Rodebaugh · February 22, 2012 2:12AM

Nice job! Your pics look great.

richardshipp · February 22, 2012 2:30AM

WOW!

Great pictures !!!

DorkGirl · February 22, 2012 3:07AM

Whit · February 22, 2012 3:09AM

Good afternoon, all:

The photo is truly extraordinary, and I can't imagine what more anyone could require in the picture of a coin.

I would judge the coin to grade MS67 or 67+ RB, perhaps red. Large blow-ups will make even small marks seem damning, but even
at high magnification, the shoulder of this Lincoln is very clean, as are the fields. (I have seen MS67s with what
looks like birdshot all over the shoulder ... to the naked eye, no less.)

What a beauty!

Whit

coin22lover · February 22, 2012 3:11AM

Can you describe what your setup is like?

MonteCarlo · February 22, 2012 3:23AM

<< Can you describe what your setup is like? >>

Yes, please tell us about it. I'm especially interested in what macro lens you're using. I've been sitting on the fence about buying a Canon EOS T2i for about a month and I haven't pulled the trigger yet, but your photos may have pushed me over the edge.

robec · February 22, 2012 4:16AM

Marvelous photos. Impossible to improve on those.

I think your success is due more to the lens, settings and lighting. Canon cameras are great as that is what I use as well, but if your setup is lacking they can still take inferior photos.

It looks like all the stars were aligned when you snapped the shutter.

bsshog40 · February 22, 2012 4:25AM

Great pictures!!!!

codamyer · February 22, 2012 5:38AM

I'd like to see what you can do with a steel cent. Beautiful pics!!!

LanceNewmanOCC · February 22, 2012 6:03AM

.
phenomenal images

i cannot even come close to that with my d90, i need to learn how to use this thing properly with the correct lighting

grade: 66+rb or 67rb - with images like those i don't mind offering a GTG

3 pieces of info if you are willing to give them

1. bulb type and quantity
2. f stop setting
3. distance of lens to coin

thanks and well done
.

NumisMe · February 22, 2012 6:09AM

Great picture and nice color.

OK, so we know what camera you are using, but what about the lens. Which one was this taken with?

Cheers !

notwilight · February 22, 2012 11:05PM

bump

rmpsrpms · February 22, 2012 11:39PM

<< OK, so we know what camera you are using, but what about the lens. Which one was this taken with? >>

This was taken with a 75mm f4 Rodenstock Apo Rodagon D M1:1, a lens designed for slide and film duplicating. It's optimized for 1:1 imaging, but works great from 1:2 (Morgan Dollar full field) up to 2:1 (Cent Date and Mintmark). The lens is significantly sharper than ANY other lens I've tried with the exception of the Nikon Printing-Nikkors, which were also designed for film duplicating.

<< 3 pieces of info if you are willing to give them

1. bulb type and quantity
2. f stop setting
3. distance of lens to coin >>

1) I'm using two Jansjo LED gooseneck lamps, $10 each at IKEA. They are diffused with Canson Opalux ($4 per sheet at Amazon) to minimize chroma noise ("red and blue sparklies")
2) f5.6
3) 150mm (edited from 100mm...that's the distance of lights to coin)

<< Can you describe what your setup is like? >>

The overall setup is:

Canon T2i
Modified Bausch & Lomb Microscope Stand
Modified Vivitar Bellows
Rodenstock Lens
Diffused IKEA Jansjo LED lamps

Here's a pic:

rmpsrpms · February 23, 2012 12:28AM

<< I'd like to see what you can do with a steel cent. Beautiful pics!!! >>

Here's a 1943-D

CoinRaritiesOnline · February 23, 2012 12:32AM

OMG. Wow!

robec · February 23, 2012 12:53AM

A little more sophisticated than the thread title would you to believe. I think with this setup, the model or make of camera was certainly of secondary importance compared to the other tools utilized.

No getting around the fact that the results are phenomenal.

Can you show us images of slabbed coins?

You've done a great job putting this setup together. Did you have much difficulty finding and making these different parts work so well together?

rmpsrpms · February 23, 2012 1:03AM

<< A little more sophisticated than the thread title would you to believe. I think with this setup, the model or make of camera was certainly of secondary importance compared to the other tools utilized.

No getting around the fact that the results are phenomenal.

Can you show us images of slabbed coins?

You've done a great job putting this setup together. Did you have much difficulty finding and making these different parts work so well together? >>

Well, I've covered the setup in several earlier posts, only change for a while is the camera, so I viewed the change as incremental, but folks may just be seeing the setup for the first time in this post.

It did take a while to get this all together, and it's been a blast doing it!

I am posting this from work (don't tell the boss) so will post a slab coin or two later tonight or tomorrow AM

Thanks,

Ray

chieftain1 · February 23, 2012 1:21AM

WOW..........Those are some great pics........and great coins. Thank you for sharing the information on the camera and the settings used. Your photos are the ones most dream about and struggle aimlessly to obtain.

coinkid855 · February 23, 2012 1:38AM

Wow, those are some GREAT shots!! Very cool setup too!

So is that just a regular lens on a bellows, or is it a macro lens plus the bellows?

-Paul

rmpsrpms · February 23, 2012 6:05AM

<< Wow, those are some GREAT shots!! Very cool setup too!

So is that just a regular lens on a bellows, or is it a macro lens plus the bellows?

-Paul >>

It's a Macro/Duplicating lens on bellows. The difference is that duplicating lenses are optimized for performance at around 1:1 magnification, so work better than normal macro lenses which are typically optimized at lower magnifications, and have to compromise performance to get good infinity focus as well...Ray

crazyhounddog · February 23, 2012 9:00AM

I have got to say these are amazing images I'm looking at!! Well done indeed....Joe

greatnortherncoin · February 23, 2012 9:16AM

great pictures

lkeigwin · February 23, 2012 9:28AM

Wonderful photos, Ray. It's worth the effort, isn't it?

So many elements go into taking great photos. One weak link and it all goes to pot.

Beautiful '43-D too. Looks like a 68!
Lance.

Swampboy · February 23, 2012 10:17AM

Wonderful images.
Wonderful coin
Wonderfully informative thread.

I have the same camera body and I'm currently shopping for a copy stand.

66RB+ on the beautiful cent.

AuroraBorealis · February 23, 2012 1:21PM

Great pics rmpsrpms...Looks like you have things figured out well for your set up and what works...I too recently acquired the T2i as well with a 60mm macro lens and have been getting some nice shots...Once i have more time i`ll get to imaging a bunch...Sure does make it nice to have a nice camera and keep up the good work...

AB

rmpsrpms · February 23, 2012 2:15PM

<< Can you show us images of slabbed coins? >>

Here's the obverse of a toned 1909-VDB in OGH PCGS MS64RD. Would look a lot better if I polished the slab. I am showing the un-processed image (no cropping) so you can see how I shape and arrange the lights so they are as high as possible but don't glare on the slab surface over the coin (except on the scratches...):

robec · February 23, 2012 2:24PM

Very nice!!

Type2 · February 23, 2012 2:24PM

That is a very nice pic. As for the coin will they graded it with the rim like that at 4 O'clock on the rev?

CoinJunkie · February 23, 2012 2:25PM

Hey, thanks a lot for posting all of this fascinating info. You may have inspired me to invest in a photo rig!
A couple of questions:

1) Can you briefly describe the modifications to the microscope stand and bellows?

2) Roughly how much would it cost to assemble a similar rig?

Thanks in advance.

Swampboy · February 23, 2012 2:46PM

<< That is a very nice pic. As for the coin will they graded it with the rim like that at 4 O'clock on the rev? >>

Just noticed that on my monitor.
I gave it a 66RB+ based on my cell phone display earlier.

OriginalDan · February 23, 2012 2:49PM

Ray, the search function on this forum isn't so good, would you mind linking the previous threads where you discussed your setup in detail? I'm really interested (along with others it seams) in how you put it together. Thanks!

lkeigwin · February 23, 2012 3:13PM

I'm not sure that slab polishing would had removed all those imperfections. They were a side effect of the lighting.

Some coins require much different lighting, of course. Brown copper vs. a lustrous white coin, let's say.

I love what you've shown.
Lance.

rmpsrpms · February 23, 2012 3:18PM

<< Hey, thanks a lot for posting all of this fascinating info. You may have inspired me to invest in a photo rig!
A couple of questions:

1) Can you briefly describe the modifications to the microscope stand and bellows?

2) Roughly how much would it cost to assemble a similar rig?

Thanks in advance. >>

The standard Bausch & Lomb "A-Stand" comes with a hoop for mounting the stereo microscope pod. The modification is to remove the hoop mount, and replace it with a piece of aluminum bar stock that forms the mount for the bellows. The bar stock has to be drilled and tapped to accept the screws that originally held the hoop mount in place, and drilled at the top for a 1/4" screw to mount the bellows (or camera...).

The standard Vivitar bellows has three 1/4" mounting options: front bracket attached to the rails; front lens mount; and rear camera mount. The front and rear lens/camera mounts are on the same plane, but the front bracket mount sits lower than the other mounts so gets in the way if you try to mount the bellows using a lens/camera mount. The modification is to remove the front bracket mount, or at least the part of it that sticks out below the other mounts, so that the bellows can be mounted to the A-Stand using a lens/camera mount.

Typical eBay prices are:

A-Stand: $75
Vivitar Bellows: $60
75ARD1 lens: $250
Adapters: $20

There are other lens options that are cheaper, though few that produce the sharpness and color fidelity of the 75ARD1.

The IKEA Jansjo lights are $10 each, but you have to buy them at a B&M IKEA store.

LanceNewmanOCC · February 23, 2012 4:05PM

.
ty for sharing and taking the time to do a Q&A
.

PinkFloyd · February 23, 2012 4:16PM

Excellent photos. T2i is a good value IMO.

nwcoast · February 23, 2012 4:20PM

Great photos and creative set-up there!!!

Thank you for sharing too...
I'm very impressed!!!
I just started dabbling with coin photography a month or so ago and I have to admit that it's a bit more challenging
than one might expect.

I made my living as a photographer for many years and my specialty was macro and photomicrography so one would think that it would come easily....This hasn't been the case though.

As you well know, vibration is a huge problem when working at high magnification and the most common means of dealing with that challenge was to use electronic flash. Problem with that though Is that it's tough to precisely control the quality of the lighting when working up close. For larger subjects, strobes with modeling lights coordinate the two, but in macro this doesn't apply..

You mention the use of copy lenses as well. Enlarging lenses were excellent for super close up work and it's interesting to note that you're utilizing them. You've done your homework and research. I'd forgotten that old technique and it cheers me that not all the old craft has disappeared with the digital revolution.

It looks like that anti vibration feature with the Canon works very well.

I was messing around a bit today with my old macro set up and some coins and shooting some 5x shots with incandescent
Lamps and my old bellows. It was REALLY tough to get sharp/crisp shots! I might just try my strobe again!

In any case, my coin photos aren't anywhere near the quality of yours and some of the others who share images on this forum!
I transitioned into another profession about 7 years ago but that's no excuse!!!

Super work there!!!! And I really appreciate the forum here and all the great info and insight that's shared!
Thank you'

Peacemonkey · February 24, 2012 12:34AM

Fantastic pictures. But I dont think the penny should be anywhere near 67. Looks 65 tops to me. Not my series though.

rmpsrpms · February 24, 2012 11:44PM

I wanted to make a comparison between lenses as a lot of folks have asked about the 75ARD1 lens I'm using, how much it costs, availability, etc. I did a lens shootout back in September and published the results on another forum. You can view those results here. What the shootout showed is that for images that will be downsized to a reasonable size for publishing on the web (say a 4x reduction, down to between 600x600 and 800x800 pixels) there is not a lot of difference between lenses. You CAN see differences but you have to look pretty close. At full resolution the differences are very obvious, but reduction of even 2x will start to equalize these differences and perhaps make it less important to buy an expensive lens. Further to this point, I have another running thread on that other forum shown here where I have been alerting forum members to what I call El-Cheapo lenses for sale on eBay. My criteria is that the lens has a BIN for $30 or less. It's amazing the quality you can get for $30-$50. For the group here, I snapped a photo of a 57-D toner using the Rodenstock lens ($250-$300 used) and another using a Spiratone 75mm Flat Field Macro lens ($50 used). Both were at f5.6, and dowsized 4x from original size. I would expect for 90% or more of the folks here, these images are equivalent, and show that you can get reasonable quality with a modest investment.

New Camera and pics

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