1956 Topps Baseball
KeepItWarm
Posts: 579 ✭
Hello,
New to these forums and posting for the first time right here. I took a break from card collecting for about 20 years and have the itch to continue working on building a 1956 Topps set. I currently have approx 150 cards in total, so I still have a way to go. I've got some HOF'ers and other key cards already, like: Aaron, Mays, Clemente, Yankees Team, Giants Team, Dodgers Team, Kaline. The Aaron, Mays and Clemente are PSA graded and came to me as gifts in recent years.
It seems that a majority of the cards offered on Ebay and other internet sites are Graded cards. Graded cards were non-existent when I last collected. Nowadays, do a vast majority of collectors try to build older sets using graded cards only? This is something that does NOT interest me. I would prefer to build the set with cards I can feel (raw cards? is that what they are known as?)
Will I have good luck finding non-graded, EX+ or better cards on Ebay? Or am I taking a risk buying non-graded cards in that fashion? Should I stick to local card shows? Is this website a recommended place to make such purchases?
Also....paste in some links to good 1956 Topps threads or other resources if you can. Thanks!
Tom
New to these forums and posting for the first time right here. I took a break from card collecting for about 20 years and have the itch to continue working on building a 1956 Topps set. I currently have approx 150 cards in total, so I still have a way to go. I've got some HOF'ers and other key cards already, like: Aaron, Mays, Clemente, Yankees Team, Giants Team, Dodgers Team, Kaline. The Aaron, Mays and Clemente are PSA graded and came to me as gifts in recent years.
It seems that a majority of the cards offered on Ebay and other internet sites are Graded cards. Graded cards were non-existent when I last collected. Nowadays, do a vast majority of collectors try to build older sets using graded cards only? This is something that does NOT interest me. I would prefer to build the set with cards I can feel (raw cards? is that what they are known as?)
Will I have good luck finding non-graded, EX+ or better cards on Ebay? Or am I taking a risk buying non-graded cards in that fashion? Should I stick to local card shows? Is this website a recommended place to make such purchases?
Also....paste in some links to good 1956 Topps threads or other resources if you can. Thanks!
Tom
South of Heaven...North of Canada
0
Comments
56 is a great set and sounds like you have a great start. You will get lots of valuable opinions on raw vs. graded here. People DO build completely graded sets, and completely raw, and everywhere in between. I personally am a raw guy, but i have a few graded in my collection. Graded cards give you the piece of mind to be very confident you are getting an untrimmed authentic card in a known condition (but the grading is not 100% foolproof). They also make it easier to sell the cards later on.
Its a great time to be back in the market as there are many deals out there given the slumping economy. You will find many cards available on ebay, but the condition will be all over the map, and most sellers overestimate their condition, but doing your homework and being diligent will allow you to get good deals and find good EX+ cards.
Enjoy!
Topps Heritage - Trade Page
I would look at buying larger lots and weed out the good from the bad until you are closer to 80% of the set and then start buying singles.
my best suggestion at this point would be to use a couple of different search features and take a look at what is being sold and who is selling it.....the best place to seek advice regarding the habits and practices of baseball card dealers is right here......you can get advice about who to trust with auctions......and who not.
good luck and have fun.
https://www.psacard.com/psasetregistry/pdub1819/othersets/6204
Because I'm building this set with a balance between cost and eye appeal, I'm not purchasing many graded cards to crack out unless the deal is right. Honestly, if I can't tell that a card has been altered, what I don't know can't hurt me as this set isn't a financial investment for me.
Recently I picked up this Campy for $10. It's obviously in poor condition, but, again, I'm not looking to break the bank on this set and it has decent eye appeal.
I built my sets raw in the old days. Now if I were doing it over I would still go the raw route most likely and start with lots, cull, upgrade and buy stars when I was down to a few cards needed.
On ebay my take is that if you see a high dollar card and it is raw there is generally a good reason. Most/some of the time it has been graded and cracked out bc the seller didn't like or disagreed with the grade and thinks they can get more raw. Sometimes you simply have a seller that deals in raw cards. I generally do not buy raw cards from sellers who have a lot of graded cards listed as well bc their Ex or Exmt or NrMt generally will not fare as well when submitted.
My .02.
Good luck with your set!
You have a great project. I agree completely with your take on this set. I have the complete set and the eye appeal
with this set made me keep it 100% raw.
Stay focused and patient and you will find the cards you need. If you want to stay within a budget just take your time
and it will be well worth it. It is truly a beautiful set RAW RAW RAW !
MULLINS5,1966CUDA,nam812,nightcrawler,OAKESY25,PowderedH2O,relaxed,RonBurgundy,samsgirl214,shagrotn77,swartz1,slantycouch,Statman,Wabittwax
I'm glad to hear a few of you have suggested what I am already doing - buying lots when money allows to get quantity, then refine as I go along...
I'm 42 and started collecting in 1975 as a kid. I got totally burned out on it all in 1990. I was cleaning my storage room in the basement (shuffling boxes of cards around to get to non-card items) when I thought, 'I'm going to open a box and see what's inside'. Right on top was the old stash of 1956 cards I had collected up to 1990. I got an instant smile on my face. As I looked at them I remembered instantly why I loved that set since I was little. There is just something other-worldly about it. The old uni's, the smiles on the players faces, the is-that-really-a-picture-or-a-painting look, the thickness/sturdiness of the stock.
Instantly hooked...again.
So here I am. I'm very familar with these forum-type websites because I'm also VERY into collecting old school BMX bikes. But getting back into these '56's has really got me excited!
(anyone care to see some quick old school bmx pics? is there an off-topic forum I can post them to?)
Some people feel a card is undergraded so they crack it out and resubmit or sell it raw at an assigned grade higher than what the slab said.
Makes the population report real valuable IMO.
Always looking for Mantle cards such as Stahl Meyer, 1954 Dan Dee, 1959 Bazooka, 1960 Post, 1952 Star Cal Decal, 1952 Tip Top Bread Labels, 1953-54 Briggs Meat, and other Topps, Bowman, and oddball Mantles.
I think that's a darn good price. $4 bucks each?
Edited to say that's a great deal if any were team cards.
"Molon Labe"
56 topps should not be a problem to find.
https://www.psacard.com/psasetregistry/pdub1819/othersets/6204
<< <i>EX cards are what you mostly find on Ebay regardless of the description of said cards.
I would look at buying larger lots and weed out the good from the bad until you are closer to 80% of the set and then start buying singles. >>
dont pass up on a nice star card if it fits within you set, ie condition centering etc. ALOT of altered cards floating around, not as many in the mid grades, but something to consider
Depends if they are in the condition that you find acceptable.
PSA-6's and 7's for $5 each sounds great to me to crack out and add to your set.
Nate
My opinion is if you are not in a big hurry to complete the set, don't get caught buying cards that you come across unless they are well centered.
In the long run you will look back and enjoy the beauty of this set more if they are centered. I put my set together kind of fast and that is my only regret and I don't want to spend money and time upgrading it now.
JMHO
MULLINS5,1966CUDA,nam812,nightcrawler,OAKESY25,PowderedH2O,relaxed,RonBurgundy,samsgirl214,shagrotn77,swartz1,slantycouch,Statman,Wabittwax
Some of the cards I just bought are as off as 80/20, sure, but there are many cards in there that are well within 65/35. I'm fine with 65/35 or better for the most part.
What is your take on the rough cut edges on cards? Embrace them or avoid them?
Jeff
Total number of cards still needed = 147