Need advice on pre-war key cards Update - MORE Purchases Made

BobS · September 2, 2010 12:48AM

Hi all. I have very little knowledge/experience with pre-war cards, as I primarily collect 50's and 60's HOF'ers. I've been slowly working on the top 250 and would like to add some pre-war cards to the collection.

I try to get away with <$500 purchases when I can. Right now, I'm looking at a 33 Sport Kings Cobb.

Looking for opinions on some of your favorites from this era, that can be purchased for <$500, but are still graded high enough to present well/respectable. Images would be appreciated too.

Cheers,

Bob

ToneD · September 2, 2010 2:37AM

Hi Bob,

Once you go down the "pre-war" road it's tough to go back.

One of my favorites is the T206 dark cap Matty. You should be able to find them around the $500 range for a PSA 4, give or take a few bucks. I have seen them go below $500 recenlty so it's very possible. It's such a classic card of one of the first 5 HOF's. Good luck in your endevor.

Dean

CollectorAtWork · September 2, 2010 7:12AM

My advice is to find a focus, do research, and take advantage of VCP (esp the one day membership) when making a big purchase. For example, say you decide you want a Babe Ruth card. There are a wide variety of cards available for Ruth from his playing days that can go from a hundred bucks or so (Sanella, Churchman) to the very popular ones or scarce ones (1933 Goudey, pre-1920). You may think that Ruth's typically go for one grand or more, and when you see a strip card for $400, think that's a great deal, but inadvertantly overpay because these can be had for significantly less. I recently purchased a Ruth postcard for $600 with a pop of 7, so I thought I had negotiated a great deal with the seller. Then I was looking around through some old auction archives, and found that the seller purchased that exact same card only one year ago for $388. Live and learn. The very popular pre-war cards can be counterfeited/reprinted, so be cautious when buying raws or cards not certified by PSA/SGC. You'll see a great deal for a Ruth on ebay with a sob story saying the card has been in the family for 20 years and the seller got it from his grandfather who treasured this card. And the card is old-looking and doesn't have reprint anywhere on the card. In fact, the card is a reprint. Don't be fooled thinking you just got an awesome deal on a card.

Beck6 · September 2, 2010 7:40AM

I have always felt that pre-war comes in three flavors. You either spend money on the name i.e Cobb, Ruth, Dimaggio etc. or you spend money on rarity or on the highest possible grade you can find.

For Rarity I prefer any of the George C. Miller cards unpunched or cut. They are tough to find and have a great checklist. I also like the 1933 Delongs, which are easier to find and also have a great checklist.

Any good name with nice visual appeal should do it, but t206's look the best in my opinion. I also like the E93's or Goudey's

A high grade t206 is awesome.

fkw · September 2, 2010 12:59PM

Careful of the R338 Cobb, it is highly reprinted and about 1/2 on eBay raw are doctored reprints.

Same with the Ruth from same set, and the R320 Gehrig's and R319 Ruth's/Gehrig's

If you have questions post pics and usually you can find someone to help ID.

BobS · September 2, 2010 10:09PM

Thanks guys for the advice. My whole collection is graded hof and RC cards from 1948 to the 80s, been buying and selling on eBay for 9 years, so I'm not really looking for advice on how to find/buy cards. Was more looking for input on what are some of everyone's favorites.

packman · September 2, 2010 11:37PM

There are so many directions you can go with pre-war. For my first purchase I would go with one of the members of the first HOF class or a HOF from a classic set (1933 or 1934 Goudey, 1941 Playball, T206 or an E set - e.g., E95, E98 or 1914-15 Cracker Jack). I would probably lean towards an E or T card because it is completely different then what you have been collecting.

The T206 Matty posted earlier is a great choice. My favorite set is the 1914 Cracker Jack. You could get a lower grade (2 or 3) of one of these cards and a T206 HOF for $500. 2 cards from classic pre-war sets.

If you want to focus more on the 1930s HOFs, then the Sports Kings, Goudey or Delong sets are great. I personally like the Goudey and Delong sets more then the Sports Kings.

handyman · September 2, 2010 11:52PM

any idea on condition? Would you be happy with a 1 or only something like a 5?
A t206 cobb might not be a bad deal or a sweet PSA 3-4 Cy young

fkw · September 3, 2010 4:50AM

I wouldnt go by some list of 250 of the Top Cards, they will usually list the very common "everyday I see 10 for sale" cards... ie T205, T206, Goudey, Play Ball, American Caramel, Cracker Jack, etc.

Those cards are really not as impressive to the veteran collector as a scarce card not often seen would be.
When I first got into PreWar back in early 80's I went straight for the Goudeys and T206 cards not knowing anything else. Then when I went to show them off, everyone I met had one, or even a handful of them in some cases. Go Rare over Common IMO
ie. You can get a nice EX+ W553 Gehrig for 1/2 the price of a lower grade R319 Gehrig, yet its 100+X rarer and 4 years older!

But... I would recommend a T206 Cobb over the R338 for the simple reason that the R338 was issued a few years after Cobbs playing days.
Ive bought many T206 Cobbs in the $500 range "raw", even an AB back red Cobb.

For Ruth, Under $500

One of the most attractive and impressive Babe Ruth card can be had for under $500...

The 1933 R309-1 Goudey Premiums

One like this (below) will sell for under $500 in most cases

They were obtained by saving wrappers, and are from 1933 (some catalogs say 1934)

BobS · September 7, 2010 12:13AM

So, I just couldn't resist and have gone off the deep end (I think) with my first T206's. I would have loved to grab one from the 1st HOF class, but I think I'll have to remain patient and wait for the "right" ones before I spend that kind of coin. Eventually, I can see myself picking up all the HOF'ers for my collection.

Got these three in a lump deal for $15 under my budget. How can you go wrong with crease-free HOF'ers from this classic set?

Not sure what direction I will head next. Been looking at the 48 Leafs, Cracker Jacks and the Caramel issues.

How'd I do?

Cheers, Bob

jerster · September 7, 2010 4:29AM

I like 'em. Good job.

CollectorAtWork · September 7, 2010 6:24AM

Nice cards. With T206's, be aware that the different backs can be important also, since the scarcer ones are more expensive. The "Monster" has hooked in a lot of collectors. Definitely a classic set.

BobS · September 8, 2010 12:48AM

Collector - I'm aware of the diffent back nuance, and may eventually try to get a copy of all 16 different ones. For now, I'm content with the common ones. The Jennings is a Tolstoi, the Chance a Uzit and the Marquard a red Hindu

pdub1819 · September 8, 2010 3:10AM

Edit: Nevermind, didn't read the whole listing.

onebamafan · September 8, 2010 3:29AM

Beautiful cards...................PSA 4 are fantastic for T206.

MantleMarisFordBerra · September 8, 2010 4:09AM

<< <i>Collector - I'm aware of the diffent back nuance, and may eventually try to get a copy of all 16 different ones. For now, I'm content with the common ones. The Jennings is a Tolstoi, the Chance a Uzit and the Marquard a red Hindu

>>

I'm not gonna lie...I started reading this & my mouth dropped open - then I got the joke. Yeah, so I'm slow...

Stone193 · September 8, 2010 7:55AM

Very nice pickups - 3 HOF'er for under 500 that look that nice?

Congratulations Bob.

BobS · September 14, 2010 12:23AM

Decided to pick up a few more. these cards are cool.

And this one - Vintage stamp on back resulted in grade:

hhmag70 · September 14, 2010 12:37AM

Any idea what the stamp is on the back? Assuming it could be Stroudsburg, Pa - Meixell common area name, there is still a Harold Meixell in the white pages.

Need advice on pre-war key cards **Update - MORE Purchases Made**

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Need advice on pre-war key cards Update - MORE Purchases Made