When should I choose to use a Blue PSA/DNA flip over a red PSA/DNA flip??
jswieton
Posts: 2,870 ✭✭✭
I know this has been discussed several times but I am still confused about when is it beneficial to use a blue psa/dna vs the red psa/dna flip. You would think that the red flip would add more value to the card since it authenticates both the card and the auto. Where the blue just benefits the auto. I have no intention on ever selling my auto's but when the day comes after I am gone. I want my family to get the most $$ for my collection, if they ever decides to sell them.
I have a bunch of mid/low grade cards with nice clean auto's. Are these more valuable in a Blue flip case rather then a red flip? Here are a couple of quick examples I was thinking of. I just got a 72 Topps Julius Erving rc signed. The card would probably get a psa 6-7 but with a small hair line crease it would get dropped to a psa 4 more than likely. Would this card have more value with a red flip or a blue "authentic flip with a high autograph grade (psa9/10)?
Personally, I have always had suspicions when looking to buy a blue flip card since there is a chance that it is either trimmed or a fake card. However, Blue flip auto's seem to be selling for higher than the red flip. If anyone can give me some insight or guidance on how to figure out the appropriate holder when I am sending in my auto's for encapsulation. Is there some sort of formula you use to decide which flip to use. For an example; cards from 1960 - Present with a grade 4 or lower with a decent looking auto gets sent for a blue flip. I am just making up these number arbitrarily but it is used to explain my point. I have thought about this for way to long and if anyone can give me any suggestions I would really appreciate it. Thanks.
I have a bunch of mid/low grade cards with nice clean auto's. Are these more valuable in a Blue flip case rather then a red flip? Here are a couple of quick examples I was thinking of. I just got a 72 Topps Julius Erving rc signed. The card would probably get a psa 6-7 but with a small hair line crease it would get dropped to a psa 4 more than likely. Would this card have more value with a red flip or a blue "authentic flip with a high autograph grade (psa9/10)?
Personally, I have always had suspicions when looking to buy a blue flip card since there is a chance that it is either trimmed or a fake card. However, Blue flip auto's seem to be selling for higher than the red flip. If anyone can give me some insight or guidance on how to figure out the appropriate holder when I am sending in my auto's for encapsulation. Is there some sort of formula you use to decide which flip to use. For an example; cards from 1960 - Present with a grade 4 or lower with a decent looking auto gets sent for a blue flip. I am just making up these number arbitrarily but it is used to explain my point. I have thought about this for way to long and if anyone can give me any suggestions I would really appreciate it. Thanks.
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Here is the trend that I have seen...or so it seems to me....blue flip with AUTO grade. Seems like the card itself can be a midgrade card but if the auto itself is a 9 or a 10, it sells at a premium.
I dont know if there are two different types of collectors out there but I suspect there is....there are card/auto collectors and then there are just the auto collectors. I dont know who is paying more. If the blue flips are selling higher, then I would guess its the auto collectors paying higher. Then again, you may have a large mix of "investor" types driving up the price of blue flip autos.
I dont know how strange this will sound but thinking of the psychy of people, I think the blue flip just is more attractive than the red because it shows a true difference...what I mean is, people see a red flip and think of the auto authentication secondary. When people see the blue flip, the light in their brain turns on to an auto. Kind of like a bug to light.
Others may see things differently...I would be interested in hearing opinions on this as well.
Good thread John
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mathew
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<< <i>Blue flip only goes in the PSA/DNA Set Registry. >>
This is the part that I understand it to mean. Basically, if you wanted to start a set of graded cards that are autographed on the PSA Card registry, you can't. Actually, I believe you can even add autographed cards that are red-flip into the regular non autographed card registries.
Either way, just LMK next time you're submitting tall-boys!
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<< <i>I am sure I am in the minority about this but I prefer the red flips on older cards if the card is in good condition. I see plenty of Mantle blue flip autographs graded 9 and 10 which is probably what this would grade but having this auto in a red flip PSA 7 makes it rare. Most older cards that I have seen that have high blue flip grades would have low red flip grades. I am sure having the high blue flip grade would make those cards more attractive. The red flip PSA/DNA autos can go into the regular PSA registry.
but these same red flip autos cant go into the PSA/DNA registry. isnt that strange.
Collecting:
Brett Favre Master Set
Favre Ticket Stubs
Favre TD Reciever Autos
Football HOF Player/etc. Auto Set
Football HOF Rc's
the everyday person probably likes seeing the highest grade possible..........
PSA 9 or 10.
Collector would generally prefer red, investor probably takes home more money in resell (blue).......
Just a guess.
Looking to BUY n332 1889 SF Hess cards and high grade cards from 19th century especially. "Once you have wrestled everything else in life is easy" Dan Gable
<< <i>I am sure I am in the minority about this but I prefer the red flips on older cards if the card is in good condition. I see plenty of Mantle blue flip autographs graded 9 and 10 which is probably what this would grade but having this auto in a red flip PSA 7 makes it rare. Most older cards that I have seen that have high blue flip grades would have low red flip grades. I am sure having the high blue flip grade would make those cards more attractive. The red flip PSA/DNA autos can go into the regular PSA registry.
>>
I agree 100% - Normally I will grade any card older than 1980ish with a grade if it will grade out to a 7 or better - if the card in question is of high value like the Mantle and was in poor condition I'd send it to be blue flipped with an auto grade.
1)When PSA slabs an autographed card in a blue flip, they are only making an opinion as to the authenticity of the autograph, they are not making an opinion as to the authenticity of the card itself. For cards that are valuable, this is extremely important, because if you buy a blue flipped autographed card, you have no independent verification that the card itself is authentic and unaltered, you only have verification that the auto is legit. If you call PSA and ask them, they will tell you that a card grader and authenticator, never reviews the blue flipped cards, only an autograph authenticator does. Thus, say for instance you are purchasing a Mickey Mantle signed rookie card, wouldn’t you want to know that BOTH the graph and the card are good as opposed to only knowing that the sig was good, but not knowing that the card might be a counterfeit?? With the red flips, PSA is making a judgement on BOTH the autograph and the card.
2) When you send in a card for a blue flip, you have to pay different and higher fees (unless you catch a special) based on different signers. IE, Michael Jordan is $100, Tiger is $100, common player is $20, Mantle is $75 or so, etc. When you send in a card for a red flip, you pay one set price unless the card itself is valued over $500.00 then you simply pay the next level up for that one. It is far cheaper to get cards slabbed with the red, then with the blue. I think PSA does that because the red flips can only be gotten by ($$$ members only) while the blue flips could be gotten by anyone.
3) I personally don’t like the grading scales on the blue flipped autographs. It is far too easy. 10’s are passed out like candy so to me it waters down the desirability of the numeric grade (perhaps not for the short term, but for the long term when people figure it out) . Additionally, autographs are subject to environmental factors way more than cards are, so a blue flip autographed card might be a 10 today, and then in two years if exposed to light, you might not even be able to see the graph, however, it will still be housed in a 10 holder. To me, that’s totally bogus and I don’t see the long term market being able to sustain premium prices for high grades on routine graphs. Additionally, a person’s own eyes can easily discern the eye appeal of a graph, they don’t need a grader to call it a 10 to know that It is bold, clear, and typical of the signer.
4) I buy and sell all the time, and I’ve found that it is far easier to sell autographed cards at better prices that are in a red flip with card grade then blue flip either with or without autograph grade (with a few exceptions of course and only applies to the items I deal in, signed rookie cards). For high dollar items, if it is in a blue flip, the first question people ask is “Is the card authentic and unaltered?”¨, if it’s in a red flip with “Authentic” only, (in other words, no card grade), then the first question they ask is “Is the card unaltered?”. I’ve found that even low graded cards in red flips tend to sell for more then ones just graded authentic. People seem to understand that for a variety of reasons, autographed cards are much harder to obtain in high card grades, then unautographed cards due to the reasons that damage can occur at so many points of the autograph acquisition. This also tremendously helps the sale of high grade red flipped autographed cards.
Just my two cents,
Mike
The red flip grades the card only, not the autograph. If you send in a card to be graded that has an autograph, the card has to seen by a grader and then by an autograph expert to authenticate the actual autograph. The grade on the red flip is for the card only. PSA/DNA only authenticates the autograph, no matter the autograph condition.
The blue flip authenticates or grades the autograph only. The media that it is written on is irrelevant. Whether it is a card, a check, a ball or any other item, the autograph is what is important, not the media. Only an autograph expert looks at the autograph. Like in the PSA set registry, the grade of the card is the most important criteria and is required to add it to a set. It works the same in the PSA/DNA set registry except it is for autographs. In order for an autograph to be part of a autograph set, it must have a grade. The only way it can be graded is with a blue flip.
The common factor here is that both flips can authenticate the autograph, the difference is what you want graded, the card or the autograph.
Hope I have made this as clear as mud.
Logan
Kingnascar's PSA Sets
Kingnascar's PSADNA Sets
I really don't like the blue flip with the auto grade because over time it is possible that the condition and thus the grade of the autograph will change. The condition of the card, however, will remain the same.
<< <i>Here is the deal with the red flip vs blue flip:
The red flip grades the card only, not the autograph. If you send in a card to be graded that has an autograph, the card has to seen by a grader and then by an autograph expert to authenticate the actual autograph. The grade on the red flip is for the card only. PSA/DNA only authenticates the autograph, no matter the autograph condition.
The blue flip authenticates or grades the autograph only. The media that it is written on is irrelevant. Whether it is a card, a check, a ball or any other item, the autograph is what is important, not the media. Only an autograph expert looks at the autograph. Like in the PSA set registry, the grade of the card is the most important criteria and is required to add it to a set. It works the same in the PSA/DNA set registry except it is for autographs. In order for an autograph to be part of a autograph set, it must have a grade. The only way it can be graded is with a blue flip.
The common factor here is that both flips can authenticate the autograph, the difference is what you want graded, the card or the autograph.
Hope I have made this as clear as mud.
Logan >>
nope your clear. what i dont understand is why they cant grade both the card and the auto. they seem to have figured out a way to that for signed balls.
Collecting:
Brett Favre Master Set
Favre Ticket Stubs
Favre TD Reciever Autos
Football HOF Player/etc. Auto Set
Football HOF Rc's
<< <i>
<< <i>Here is the deal with the red flip vs blue flip:
The red flip grades the card only, not the autograph. If you send in a card to be graded that has an autograph, the card has to seen by a grader and then by an autograph expert to authenticate the actual autograph. The grade on the red flip is for the card only. PSA/DNA only authenticates the autograph, no matter the autograph condition.
The blue flip authenticates or grades the autograph only. The media that it is written on is irrelevant. Whether it is a card, a check, a ball or any other item, the autograph is what is important, not the media. Only an autograph expert looks at the autograph. Like in the PSA set registry, the grade of the card is the most important criteria and is required to add it to a set. It works the same in the PSA/DNA set registry except it is for autographs. In order for an autograph to be part of a autograph set, it must have a grade. The only way it can be graded is with a blue flip.
The common factor here is that both flips can authenticate the autograph, the difference is what you want graded, the card or the autograph.
Hope I have made this as clear as mud.
Logan >>
nope your clear. what i dont understand is why they cant grade both the card and the auto. they seem to have figured out a way to that for signed balls. >>
That's a very good question... doesn't beckett and JSA combine both???
If you are going to hold on to the card long term red with a grade might be the right choice since it says the auto is real and the card is also real and not trimmed or altered.
If there is a chance you're going to be selling the card in the near future a blue flip with a 10 auto grade would be a great selling point.
<< <i>That's what I was thinking. I have no plans on selling my collection. I am just debating over some of my recent subs that I only had authenticated and not # graded. I am thinking that even with a low grade it is better to get a red flip w/ # grade since it shows that the card is not trimmed or tampered with. >>
I think that's the right approach but for some reason authentic just looks better than PSA 3 or 4 to my eye - not really sure why.