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Best way to determine value on 80's-90's oddball?


What is the best way to determine which 80's-90's oddballs/inserts are actually hard to find and desirable? Obviously, Beckett is worthless when it comes to this as I often see some of these cards go for way above book when they are sold, ie 90's refractors. One thing I have been doing is searching the particular card I am wondering about on Beckett marketplace and comparing that to the listed book value. Of course, this system is highly flawed as asking price is not a sale price. So do you guys have any other way to determine what cards are actually in demand by player collectors besides watching eBay?

Comments

  • digicatdigicat Posts: 8,551 ✭✭


    << <i>So do you guys have any other way to determine what cards are actually in demand by player collectors besides watching eBay? >>



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    Or... look at the registry and see if there are any common gaps in the various player collections.
    My Giants collection want list

    WTB: 2001 Leaf Rookies & Stars Longevity: Ryan Jensen #/25
  • eagles33eagles33 Posts: 2,684 ✭✭✭
    I think the best way to see what something is watch ebay.. if it is really rare.. and doesn't show up often on ebay..then list it either with a really high reserve.. or offer it as buy it now with a really high price.. and give the best offer option. Sometime people stay away from reserve auctions.. but it should give you an idea.
    Scans of most of my Misc rookies can be found <a target=new class=ftalternatingbarlinklarge href="http://forums.collectors.com/m...y&keyword1=Non%20major">here
  • billwaltonsbeardbillwaltonsbeard Posts: 3,748 ✭✭✭✭
    Searching the completed listings on Ebay is quick and easy.

    Even with BIN listings that don't sell, at least you can get a gauge of what other sellers think the card is possibly worth.
  • Mickey71Mickey71 Posts: 4,261 ✭✭✭✭
    The best way to determine the value is by how quickly it burns when put in the fireplace. I've noticed that 1987 topps burns nicely.
  • CNoteCNote Posts: 2,070


    << <i>The best way to determine the value is by how quickly it burns when put in the fireplace. I've noticed that 1987 topps burns nicely. >>




    It's because of that awesome wood grain border.
  • mcadamsmcadams Posts: 2,618 ✭✭✭
    I'm working on master sets for a few players who played in the 80's and early to mid 90's and I've had to learn a ton about oddball issues as a result. First of all, I would say that you need to focus on individual cards in the set, not the set as a whole. Its master set collectors that drive the prices now, and some player's collectors go after every oddball issue, some don't. Its tough to say many oddballs are worth anything unless the master registry guys are active with that player and actually agressively seek out oddballs in their respective composites. If you have a rabid collector base for an 80's player, go look on the master registry sets and see which cards have a pop 1 or 2 for 10 grade. If there are 8 or 10 active collectors in the set and only 2 graded psa 10's of an issue, then there is still money to be made on that card. With the oddball issues, I like to be the first person to introduce oddballs to the registry. I'll go through the master sets and notice which player sets don't already have said oddball card in the composite. If its missing, I'll sub 2-3 of that card, then list the lowest grade first, the highest grade later. When you're the first guy to get an oddball card graded, you can almost sell it in any condition because there is a perception that its super rare, or else it would have already been added to the composite.
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