<< <i>I've never been a fan of "filler" cards so I dont do that. I just wait it out until I can find the card I need in the condition that I desire. >>
What he said.
'Sir, I realize it's been difficult for you to sleep at night without your EX/MT 1977 Topps Tom Seaver, but I swear to you that you'll get it safe and sound.' -CDs Nuts, 1/20/14
<< <i>I've never been a fan of "filler" cards so I dont do that. I just wait it out until I can find the card I need in the condition that I desire. >>
Me either...if I am completeing an entire set in '8' or higher, I will sometimes get a '7' if I get it cheap enough. Won't get any lower than one grade down for the set I am completing though......
I'm currently in this position, because I'm trying to complete a raw basic Topps set of Brooks Robinson, and of course I'm stuck on the 1957 (RC) and the 1967 (hi#). Both cards cost quite a bit, even though I'm looking for a low to mid-grade card. Where I draw the line is a really bad crease. I can live with corner wear, but I don't want a crease going across the card. I really blew it a few months ago. I let a '67 pass me by that looked GREAT on the front, but had writing on the back. I think it sold for less than $40.
Anyway, to answer your question, I draw the line at a bad crease.
One grade lower for me if the set is for my collection.
---------------------- Working on the following: 1970 Baseball PSA, 1970-1976 Raw, World Series Subsets PSA, 1969 Expansion Teams PSA, Fleer World Series Sets, Texas Rangers Topps Run 1972-1989 ----------------------
Successful deals to date: thedudeabides,gameusedhoop,golfcollector,tigerdean,treetop,bkritz, CapeMOGuy,WeekendHacker,jeff8877,backbidder,Salinas,milbroco,bbuckner22,VitoCo1972,ddfamf,gemint,K,fatty macs,waltersobchak,dboneesq
I am not a fan of the "filler" either. I feel its a waste of money. With my luck I would buy the "filler" and the card I needed would come up and I wouldn't have the funds to get it.
<< <i>I've never been a fan of "filler" cards so I dont do that. I just wait it out until I can find the card I need in the condition that I desire. >>
<< <i>I've never been a fan of "filler" cards so I dont do that. I just wait it out until I can find the card I need in the condition that I desire. >>
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Yup.
The money squandered on "fillers" is better saved to buy the ones you really want.
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EDIT ADD:
Nothing wrong with folks collecting only fillers, if that is what they want to do.
Folks Who Bite Get Bitten. Folks Who Don't Bite Get Eaten.
No limit if they are really cheap. My goal on my sets is all eights or better. I will use a cheap filler waiting for the right card to come along. Exception-I do not pay for short prints. If the 8 is $500, and the 7 is $10, I go with the 7.
Burgundy don't play the low pop game anymore, except for a couple years that he really likes. So if you call a 7 a filler when the rest are all 8's, that's what I do.
Example: I've got three '62 Witts that are raw and NM, but are not NM-MT. That's fine with me as I'm not going to be the one who pays $1K plus for an 8.
Ron Burgundy
Buying Vintage, all sports. Buying Woody Hayes, Les Horvath, Vic Janowicz, and Jesse Owens autographed items
If I decide on a certain "no lower than" grade on a set, then I am willing to wait it out. I would rather complete the set in the "desired goal" than complete the set.
"A full mind is an empty bat." Ty Cobb
Currently collecting 1934 Butterfinger, 1969 Nabisco, 1991 Topps Desert Shield (in PSA 9 or 10), and 1990 Donruss Learning Series (in PSA 10).
<< <i>Burgundy don't play the low pop game anymore, except for a couple years that he really likes. So if you call a 7 a filler when the rest are all 8's, that's what I do.
Example: I've got three '62 Witts that are raw and NM, but are not NM-MT. That's fine with me as I'm not going to be the one who pays $1K plus for an 8. >>
Someone who's name is nottobementioned paid $8k for one a few years ago. Personally I'd rather have a Harley.
W.C.Fields "I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
Im only 26% into my 1952 Bowman Large Football set right now but I plan on trying to complete it. Unfortunately though some of these cards are extremely dificult to find- SP's ect.. so in some cases a 3 or a 4 might have to do ( I plan on it actually )
I think in most cases a filler card is a waste of money & time if you cant find the card at that moment, but if your pretty certain the card does ( and will ) come up often enough I would see it best to just wait.
<< <i>I've never been a fan of "filler" cards so I dont do that. I just wait it out until I can find the card I need in the condition that I desire. >>
Comments
<< <i>I've never been a fan of "filler" cards so I dont do that. I just wait it out until I can find the card I need in the condition that I desire. >>
What he said.
-CDs Nuts, 1/20/14
*1956 Topps baseball- 97.4% complete, 7.24 GPA
*Clemente basic set: 85.0% complete, 7.89 GPA
<< <i>I've never been a fan of "filler" cards so I dont do that. I just wait it out until I can find the card I need in the condition that I desire. >>
Same
"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind." Dr. Seuss
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
Anyway, to answer your question, I draw the line at a bad crease.
Working on the following: 1970 Baseball PSA, 1970-1976 Raw, World Series Subsets PSA, 1969 Expansion Teams PSA, Fleer World Series Sets, Texas Rangers Topps Run 1972-1989
----------------------
Successful deals to date: thedudeabides,gameusedhoop,golfcollector,tigerdean,treetop,bkritz, CapeMOGuy,WeekendHacker,jeff8877,backbidder,Salinas,milbroco,bbuckner22,VitoCo1972,ddfamf,gemint,K,fatty macs,waltersobchak,dboneesq
Hi there,
I am not a fan of the "filler" either. I feel its a waste of money. With my luck I would buy the "filler" and the card I needed would come up and I wouldn't have the funds to get it.
http://www.unisquare.com/store/brick/
Ralph
<< <i>I've never been a fan of "filler" cards so I dont do that. I just wait it out until I can find the card I need in the condition that I desire. >>
Exactly, me too.
<< <i>I've never been a fan of "filler" cards so I dont do that. I just wait it out until I can find the card I need in the condition that I desire. >>
/////////////////
Yup.
The money squandered on "fillers" is better saved to buy the ones you really want.
..............
EDIT ADD:
Nothing wrong with folks collecting only fillers, if that is what they want to do.
Example: I've got three '62 Witts that are raw and NM, but are not NM-MT. That's fine with me as I'm not going to be the one who pays $1K plus for an 8.
Buying Vintage, all sports.
Buying Woody Hayes, Les Horvath, Vic Janowicz, and Jesse Owens autographed items
Currently collecting 1934 Butterfinger, 1969 Nabisco, 1991 Topps Desert Shield (in PSA 9 or 10), and 1990 Donruss Learning Series (in PSA 10).
<< <i>Burgundy don't play the low pop game anymore, except for a couple years that he really likes. So if you call a 7 a filler when the rest are all 8's, that's what I do.
Example: I've got three '62 Witts that are raw and NM, but are not NM-MT. That's fine with me as I'm not going to be the one who pays $1K plus for an 8. >>
Someone who's name is nottobementioned paid $8k for one a few years ago. Personally I'd rather have a Harley.
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
I think in most cases a filler card is a waste of money & time if you cant find the card at that moment, but if your pretty certain the card does ( and will ) come up often enough I would see it best to just wait.
<< <i>
<< <i>I've never been a fan of "filler" cards so I dont do that. I just wait it out until I can find the card I need in the condition that I desire. >>
What he said. >>
What both of 'em said
Steve