I need some info...
sportscardtheory
Posts: 1,786 ✭✭✭
I am thinking about buying a PSA membership. It states with your initial grades that the card can't be over $499. Does that mean after grading or before, and how do they get the value? It also says no autographed cards. Does this mean all auto cards? Are certified pack inserted cards not allowed? How much, including shipping and insurance, is it to grade cards after the initial submissions that come with the membership? Anything else you think I should know? Thanks in advance for any info.
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It's before the grading and for the most part, the value should be based on fair market value for the card you are getting graded in the raw condition that it is currently in when you sent it. You are the one that sets the value. I believe it's also going to be the insured value of that card, so put a value that you would be happy with if something happened to it. PSA WILL call your hand on this if your value is egregious, IE, you have a declared value of $50 for a card that is really worth $1,000 just so you can get it graded cheaper. It will delay your order as it will get a "receive hold" until the issue is cleared up.
It also says no autographed cards. Does this mean all auto cards? Are certified pack inserted cards not allowed?
It means autographed cards that fall outside of this parameter:
Autographed cards dated 1998 and later (direct from manufacturer or previously authenticated by PSA/DNA) may be sent through any of the listed services. Thus, if it falls in that category, you can use your membership voucher for it.
How much, including shipping and insurance, is it to grade cards after the initial submissions that come with the membership?
Depends on a huge variety of factors, here is a link to the fee schedule which does not include shipping and insurance:
PSA fee schedule
Return shipping and insurance is cost prohibitive to me on small orders. IMO, it's very high, and also slow because they use USPS Registered Mail, but that's also one of the safest options to have shipped. You can also use your own FedEx or UPS account, but if you do, I'd recommend that you buy a 3rd party insurance product that covers your items in transit using common carriers.
Anything else I think you should know?
Yep, have fun and enjoy collecting. PSA offers monthly "specials" to its members that can save you a lot of money, so be sure and take advantage of them. Do a search on this board for past specials and you can get an idea of what they offer.
Mike
<< <i>Does that mean after grading or before, and how do they get the value?
It's before the grading and for the most part, the value should be based on fair market value for the card you are getting graded in the raw condition that it is currently in when you sent it. You are the one that sets the value. I believe it's also going to be the insured value of that card, so put a value that you would be happy with if something happened to it. PSA WILL call your hand on this if your value is egregious, IE, you have a declared value of $50 for a card that is really worth $1,000 just so you can get it graded cheaper. It will delay your order as it will get a "receive hold" until the issue is cleared up.
It also says no autographed cards. Does this mean all auto cards? Are certified pack inserted cards not allowed?
It means autographed cards that fall outside of this parameter:
Autographed cards dated 1998 and later (direct from manufacturer or previously authenticated by PSA/DNA) may be sent through any of the listed services. Thus, if it falls in that category, you can use your membership voucher for it.
How much, including shipping and insurance, is it to grade cards after the initial submissions that come with the membership?
Depends on a huge variety of factors, here is a link to the fee schedule which does not include shipping and insurance:
PSA fee schedule
Return shipping and insurance is cost prohibitive to me on small orders. IMO, it's very high, and also slow because they use USPS Registered Mail, but that's also one of the safest options to have shipped. You can also use your own FedEx or UPS account, but if you do, I'd recommend that you buy a 3rd party insurance product that covers your items in transit using common carriers.
Anything else I think you should know?
Yep, have fun and enjoy collecting. PSA offers monthly "specials" to its members that can save you a lot of money, so be sure and take advantage of them. Do a search on this board for past specials and you can get an idea of what they offer.
Mike >>
Thank you much. Very helpful stuff. Anyone have a general idea what shipping and insurance is on a, for example, a 10 card submission?
<< <i>Anyone have a general idea what shipping and insurance is on a, for example, a 10 card submission? >>
Need to know the value of your cards to determine S&I to PSA.
Return Shipping .... U.S. Postage & Handling Rate for a 10 card sub:
$0 - $100: $19.80
$101 - $500: $22.35
$501 - $1000: $24.75
$1001 - $5000: $30.05
PoppaJ
<< <i> PSA WILL call your hand on this if your value is egregious, IE, you have a declared value of $50 for a card that is really worth $1,000 just so you can get it graded cheaper. It will delay your order as it will get a "receive hold" until the issue is cleared up
>>
That happened to me a few days ago. The limit on the autograph special from september was $250 and SMR on an auto I sent in is $450 for an index card. I had them look at the card, it's not attractive at all, and they said it was ok at the 250. But if it's a perfect 52 topps mantle you won't get away with saying $500.
Whether to join depends a lot on how likely you are to grade cards and satisfy your needs. If your need is for profit by reselling the cards you grade, then your grading eye has to be good, and you have to choose the right cards to sell. If your need is to holder cards you plan to keep, just to protect them, then of course it's a good idea.
Your first submission should be a small one, maybe a monthly special, to test your grading eye. Everybody is wrong the first time and you want to make sure you know what you're doing before you send off a 500 card sub and lose lots of money.
jim