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Easiest BB set to build '60-67??

Also, which is the easiest to profit on??

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  • nam812nam812 Posts: 10,600 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Raw or graded?
  • soup or salad?
  • perkdogperkdog Posts: 31,762 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Steak or Fish?
  • Carew29Carew29 Posts: 4,025 ✭✭

    I would suggest 61' to build. as for selling for profit--- 62' or 63'??
  • nam812nam812 Posts: 10,600 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Also, which is the easiest to profit on?? >>



    The one that you buy for the lowest price.
  • leadoff4leadoff4 Posts: 2,392
    Being on the board as long as I have, I should have known the responses that would come... but hey, I was bored and the heat index is 112 outside here in Florida so... and Nam I would say raw & graded. Probably the stars and "big name" HOFers graded. Basically, my thought is any card that books for $75+ I would like to have graded for set purposes. Carew29, I'm surprised you say '62 & '63 for profit, reasons??
  • nam812nam812 Posts: 10,600 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>.......as for selling for profit--- 62' or 63'?? >>



    I would disagree because each of those sets has an expensive high number series (1963 actually has an expensive semi high series), but neither set has a strong eBay market for selling the cards from those expensive series' individually (unlike 1961 high numbers which even sell well in lower grades).
  • perkdogperkdog Posts: 31,762 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Do you honestly believe anyone can answer this? Im not being a smartass but there are so many variables to go along with the general question that nobody could give you the answer your looking for.

    How can anyone predict which '60's set would give you the most profit whether raw or graded? You could buld a nice set and get smoked on a sale one day then make money the next it all depends if you happen to get lucky and someone happens to be looking for the exact set you build and have for sale. I dont think it matters which set you try its all subject to the variables that go along with selling.
  • RonBurgundyRonBurgundy Posts: 5,491 ✭✭✭
    I don't think '65 is all that hard to build.
    Ron Burgundy

    Buying Vintage, all sports.
    Buying Woody Hayes, Les Horvath, Vic Janowicz, and Jesse Owens autographed items
  • leadoff4leadoff4 Posts: 2,392
    Perked or not perked???
  • Nathaniel1960Nathaniel1960 Posts: 2,331 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Easiest to Hardest:

    65
    64
    68
    69
    60
    61 (Hi's are not as tuff as you'd think)
    67
    66
    63
    62

    Easiest to Profit:

    That would be 60, because you can pick up some really cheap lots and buy a few stars in PSA 5 or better for about $1000 total and sell for about $2000 on a good day.
    Kiss me once, shame on you.
    Kiss me twice.....let's party.
  • Bosox1976Bosox1976 Posts: 8,566 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Easiest to Hardest:

    65
    64
    68
    69
    60
    61 (Hi's are not as tuff as you'd think)
    67
    66
    63
    62

    Easiest to Profit:

    That would be 60, because you can pick up some really cheap lots and buy a few stars in PSA 5 or better for about $1000 total and sell for about $2000 on a good day.
    >>



    Darn good answer.
    Mike
    Bosox1976
  • markj111markj111 Posts: 2,921 ✭✭✭
    In my opinion (based on 20 years of working on sets), the easiest are 68 and 61. It's not even worth the effort having most 68 commons graded. You can't make money on (most)8s. The population for 61s is quite high, but there are also a lot of collectors. It is my personal favorite. 62 is by far the toughest. The 66 set is not popular based on the set registry. There are some very low pops in that year, but for the most part are not expensive (#544 Cards Rookies being an exception).
  • leadoff4leadoff4 Posts: 2,392
    Good info. from all. Remember, in my OP only considering '60-'67.

  • I don't grade cards. I only do raw, so I'll talk about this without using the word "pop" once.

    I've put together most of those sets from the 1960's. I think 1967 was the most fun while also a challange. Because it has a lot of high demand cards and high series cards, you can always do well investing in that set. 1966 was fun to put together. 1964 and 1966 were surprisingly boring but 1964 seemed tougher.

    It's probably harder to put together a raw 1961 set than a graded one because so many people have their high numbers graded. That depletes the pool of decent quality raw high numbers. So those guys who say putting together a 1961 set is "easy" are basing it on graded numbers. The same thing goes for 1966 high and 1963 mid-high series. Findng decent raw is what makes it tough.

    I don't see much future for the 1960, 1964, 1965, 1968 or 1969 sets. They've pretty much done all they can do. Graded or undgraded. I would steer you towards the following..in this order

    1967
    1961
    1963
    1966
    1962
  • Its like asking which stock should I buy for the greatest return, we don't know the future.

    More importantly, which grade are you planning on building the set in?

    Here's why. if you are trying to get a 60's set done in a psa 8, your looking at some big dollars for the tougher cards, if you want 65's the same thing applies. If you can give more parameters,
    I think we can better answer your question.
    If you could furnish the following:
    I did see that you wanted to do both and get graded above 75.00 book...
    How much do you want to spend?
    What Grade?
    All PSA or some graded/some Raw?
    Time frame?
    Are you willing to buy raw and submit to psa ?

    I think we could really narrow this down for you.



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  • SDavidSDavid Posts: 1,584 ✭✭
    This doesn't apply to a specific year, but several times I've seen sellers get hammered on partial sets even when there weren't many cards missing. Someone could have easily bought them, filled in the gaps, and then resold the set for a pretty good profit.
  • WinPitcherWinPitcher Posts: 27,726 ✭✭✭
    Did Mintacular put you up to this?

    Steve
    Good for you.
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