Great Britian 1948 and 1949 1d question

ajaan · January 6, 2009 1:02AM

If you want to sell a 1948 and 1949 1d, to sell for maximum price, should the coins be slabbed? The coins are in the MS63-MS64 RED range. Is it worth the slabbing cost? Remember, these are to be sold.

ASUtodd · January 6, 2009 1:37AM

I buy the coin, not the slab.... To me if the coin was worth $100 (market value) then I'd pay $100 whether it was slabbed or not..... I guess it boils down to whether the person you are selling to trusts your grading or if they are good enough to grade the coin themselves. I'm not that good at getting the grades right sometimes so I usually compare the coin to others that have the same grade range. Comparison shopping. Although knowing you via the boards, and having bought items from you, I would trust you judgment on grading.
Todd

JCMhouston · January 6, 2009 1:51AM

I don't have my books with me, so I am not sure of the value. But assuming they are $50 coins I'm not sure you would make enough extra to justify slabbing fees. Now if they are $100 coins then you probably do get the fees back in the sale price. From images I find it really hard to grade a coin, so I do generally pay a little more for a slabbed coin. As an example I just bought a 1905 slabbed 65RB British Penny, I paid $50-75 more than I would have been willing to pay if it was raw. The reason being that looking at the photo I can make some judgement about the grade on the slab. If it's raw then I am depending on the capability of the photographer, and their technique.

Having said that if the coin is coming from one of the 2-3 dealers whose grading judgement I trust then I would probably pay the same amount.

7Jaguars · January 6, 2009 2:45AM

While British pennies are always good things, and in red better, they are not stellar rarities. I agree with the above in that they are probably not worth slabbing.

Gazza · January 6, 2009 3:16AM

The only problem with 1948 and 1949 was there respectable mintages. Spinks gives them about $12 in UNC. Slabbing may help if they very low pop figures.

coinkat · January 6, 2009 7:44AM

If they would grade 65 red or higher, I would send them in. If not, I would not

zeebob · January 6, 2009 9:51AM

By the time you slab them I think they will bring a 25% or so premium (this is based on watching darkside stuff on ebay). But that probably only amounts to $25 for the $100 coins. So you'd probably come out a bit behind the curve.

However, I think you will have a larger market base for the slabbed coin. I buy the coin AND the slab. By that I mean I buy a coin that has the eye appeal and price that I want, but also the additional assurance of a more experienced eye that the coin is not fake and has not been (or has minimally been) doctored. I learned a $400 lesson recently with raw coins and am out of the raw coin market.

For your 2 penny's, I suspect the market is large enough that this isn't a concern and slabbing would just cause you to lose $10-$15 on each coin.

Rickc300 · January 6, 2009 6:24PM

<< <i>If you want to sell a 1948 and 1949 1d, to sell for maximum price, should the coins be slabbed? >>

For a Maximum price, yes, they should be slabbed. If you are talking about maximum profit, probably not... The cost of slabbing VS the final hammer price of raw or slabbed coins really depends on you as the seller and me as a buyer (what are you selling and what am I buying)? Can you picture the coin and describe it in a way that makes me comfortable? I recently paid almost 3 times Krause for a German 1/2 mark because it was in PCGS plastic. It was a 15 dollar coin that I would have had to pay to have graded in order to add to my registry set. I got a known graded MS coin for my set that cost me 43 bucks. If I bought it raw for book value ($15) and paid to have it graded by PCGS I would be out about $45 bucks with shipping plus the membership fees and no guarantee that the coin would not be bodybagged for some reason. I think I got a deal for my registry set at 43 dollars... No worries, no fees and no waiting! If I were just wanting a nice example of that coin for my collection I could have bought it raw and saved about 30 bucks but wanting to build a registry set I saved time, worry and money, even at almost 3 times book value. If it were just to be added to my mundane collection at home that almost nobody would ever see, I would take the 15 dollar raw coin since I know what I am looking at when grading these coins. I'm sure you remember seeing all the posts, "It is hard to grade by pics, but I think that coin will grade at *** but I can't be sure while trying to grade from a pic" That makes all of us, I can't grade a coin from a pic no matter how good of a pic you take. Being in a slab eliminates that concern (at least for me anyway, I trust most of the TPGS or at least know how I grade VS their grades. Bottom line, I saved money by purchasing a slabbed coin at almost 3 times book, will you make money selling a coin at 3 times book after paying the costs of slabbing? The time it is tied up in shipping and being graded? flip a coin for a 5 dollar profit after a week or 10 dollars after 2 months, which is more profitable?

Just my "2d" worth...
Rick

BCNumismatics · January 6, 2009 7:42PM

1948 & 1949 1d. coins are common.It is the 1950 & 1951 1d. coins that are scarce.Yes,I have both of those in my own collection,& they are not for sale.

Aidan.

7Jaguars · January 6, 2009 8:27PM

Aidan - interesting point as the 1950 and 1951 coins are probabloy near the break point for encapsulating if red or what we would think of as at least "64". Scarce would be a fair term for them, though obviously not rare. The 1948 and 1949, not so (except in proof - try to find the 1948!).

ajaan · February 16, 2009 8:08AM

The 1949 came back MS65 RED. I didn't submit the 1948.

coinkat · February 16, 2009 10:00AM

congrats

ormandh · February 16, 2009 10:02AM

Do you have pics of them?

7Jaguars · February 16, 2009 11:44AM

Yes, a 65 Red is always good if it is a pre 1951....

Great Britian 1948 and 1949 1d question

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