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PSA Grading Question

Which cards should I go to the expense of getting graded. Like most on these forums I have 10's of thousands of cards dating from 1973 - 1994. The expense of grading all superstars would be enormous, however, I am finding that graded cards are the way to go. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Comments

  • lawnmowermanlawnmowerman Posts: 19,477 ✭✭✭✭
    Just wait for the $5.00 specials or do bulk at appr. $6.00 per.

    Also, you don't have to send them all in at once.
  • lawnmowerman.........so for example, 1993 Michael Jordan which is worth a couple of bucks......you say get it graded? Is there a base dollar amount on ungraded cards that I should go by before getting them graded? A 1988 Donruss Mike Schmidt in "visually" mint condition, get that graded? (I have 50 of them)

    Thanks for the response.
  • lawnmowermanlawnmowerman Posts: 19,477 ✭✭✭✭
    It really all depends. Will you be grading to sell or grading to keep? If you are grading to sell go over your cards well so you won't be wasting your money. 9's do not typically sell for a premium. Also, if selling, check the pop reports as low pop cards will fetch more money

    If you are grading to keep, it really doesn't matter. If the card is in good shape and you like it, grade it.
  • jimq112jimq112 Posts: 3,511 ✭✭✭
    If you're grading for your personal collection, grade cards that you want to make sure are unaltered, or that you want to protect from damage. Grade cards you want for your registry set.

    If you're grading to sell modern cards like your suggestion of 1988 donruss mike schmidt, if you check the pop report you can find out quickly if it's worth grading. A modern card with high pop in high grade might not be a good investment.

    Almost any Mantle and most vintage HOF cards are worth grading.

    When all else fails, see if the card is listed in ebay completed auctions and see what it sold for in the approximate grade that you have.
    image
  • Aren't you the same guy that wanted $75 for the Clemens rookie and $20 for the Ripken FF? If I remember correctly, you seemed to be certain about the PSA grades of all your raw cards.
  • PoppaJPoppaJ Posts: 2,818
    Hi and welcome to the Boards,

    Providing you are very knowledgable about your cards' values and conditions, you might want to post a few of your more expensive examples to this thread and let some of the guys give you their unbiased opinions.

    Out of your massive collection, there might only be a couple hundred or less cards that you would want to invest in getting graded.

    If you're a novice to values or need help with prices, I'm sure the guys would be more than happy to provide some figures for you.

    Many people have wasted tons of dollars sending in modern commons with PSA 10 potential, only to have them come back as 9s or less, and finding out that the grading fee was higher than the card was worth.

    Good luck!

    PoppaJ



  • << <i>Many people have wasted tons of dollars sending in modern commons with PSA 10 potential, only to have them come back as 9s or less >>



    Hey! You talking to me? Damn the 83 Donruss commons!!
  • PoppaJPoppaJ Posts: 2,818


    << <i>

    << <i>Many people have wasted tons of dollars sending in modern commons with PSA 10 potential, only to have them come back as 9s or less >>



    Hey! You talking to me? Damn the 83 Donruss commons!! >>



    ////////////

    Sorry Bill .... but now that you mentioned it image

    PoppaJ
  • Not sure what statement I made to qualify "certain" to the grading of the cards, but...........I think I was the guy. Nice to see someone who owns up to his mistakes.

    Thanks for the help
  • file attached
  • let me know if you can open it as I cannot. It is from "photobucket". Thx
  • CDsNutsCDsNuts Posts: 10,092
    Link does not work, but I can tell you for certain that less than 1% of the cards you consider "Mint" will be PSA 10s. You are overgrading your cards. Trust me. Today's grading standards are not the same as they were in 1992.
  • Yeh....guess I am overgrading. How do I transfer a scan of cards from photobucket to this sight? I sound like a moron, but I am not sure how to do it.
  • Just cut and paste the photobucket link on here and someone will put it up for you.
  • dude, save your money on grading $4 cards. Maybe on cards that are gem perfect AND worth 3 figures. otherwise why bother, use the money to buy more raw cards! image
  • Don't listen to Lucinda. Buy a box of 83 Donruss and sub some of the low pop commons. I will buy them all from you in PSA 10 only and will give you at least $6 per card.
  • Listen Beatrice,
    i took all my PSA 10 Donruss and burned them in my fire pit, so there image
  • Try this

    Works now
  • I can't post this pic....guess I am a moron. I will deal with it tomorrow because I would like an opinion on the grading.
  • is this what you want to post?

    image
  • Thnak you!!!
  • I mean "thank you".
  • DboneesqDboneesq Posts: 18,219 ✭✭
    Ryan probably coming back an O/C, no?

    Schmidt, upper left corner damaged? Middle of sides ... looks like some white showing. Is it just the scan?

    Hope it's just the scan!

    Doug
    STAY HEALTHY!

    Doug

    Liquidating my collection for the 3rd and final time. Time for others to enjoy what I have enjoyed over the last several decades. Money could be put to better use.
  • You're looking at a 7 on the Schmidt and a 5 or 6 on the Ryan.
  • Reading through posts on SGC and here on this site, here is what I have gleaned:

    1. Don't get a card graded that books for less than the cost to grade.
    2. Grade all post 1980 cards SGC.
    3. All cards you are going to sell and all pre-1980 cards get graded by PSA.

    Sound right?


  • << <i>1. Don't get a card graded that books for less than the cost to grade.
    2. Grade all post 1980 cards SGC.
    3. All cards you are going to sell and all pre-1980 cards get graded by PSA.

    Sound right? >>



    No

    1. There are many low pop commons and overproduced 80's and 90's rookies that have book values of $.03-$5.00 that sell for stupid money thanks to the registry and team or player collectors. 1984 Donruss baseball is a good example of a "modern" set that set registry folks will stay pay $200+ for an otherwise worthless common as long as it is graded a 10. Another example, try buying a 1986 Topps Nolan Ryan PSA 10 for under $1500.

    2. I personally would not send anything to SGC but I believe most would agree that SGC's specialty is in pre-war vintage.

    3. Again, I may be a little biased, but I would only sub to PSA unless you are considering pre-war vintage. As far as resale value, PSA mid to high grade cards almost always realize a higher return than similarly graded identical cards in a BGS, BVG or SGC holder. The set registry is a powerful drug.
  • Without posting a million pics for people to look at, how do I judge what may be a 9 or 10 before I send the card to PSA? Sorry for the questions. I am not a neophyte to collecting, but am to the "in's and out's" of grading. Thanks.
  • 262Runner262Runner Posts: 606 ✭✭✭
    You may want to join PSA, take your 6 free subs and choose a few cards you have from different years (trying to choose a 10, 9, 8 of the same card helps as well). Once you have those cards back, You will be better able to determine what grades to expect on other cards in the future. This experiment may save you a lot of $$ in the future.

    You may also want to post a few more scans of cards you plan on sending in. You will get a lot of good information from these boards.

    Collecting all cards - Gus Zernial
    Post Cereal both raw and PSA Graded (1961-1963)

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