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Is putting together vintage sets fun to you?

I'm contemplating putting together some raw sets from the 60s in EX-NM condition, specifically baseball sets from 62-65. I was just wondering what some of the board members thoughts were on this? Is it gratifying enough at the end because I know it's going to take a lot of time and effort, along with a lot of ups and downs. My collections is mostly HOFers from the 50s-70s, both graded and raw. Just wanted some views. Also, do you prefer to house them in binders or toploaders in boxes? I'm leaning toward the binder because I think it would be easier to enjoy them that way. Appreciate all your thoughts/comments.

Comments

  • Bosox1976Bosox1976 Posts: 8,550 ✭✭✭✭✭
    As someone who has done 62 (several times - both raw & graded) and 63 (mixed raw/graded), I can tell you that it is easier and cheaper to do them raw, and trading occurs more which is fun.

    That said, I hate buying raw HOFers on ebay because there are an abundance of trimmed cards. I hate trimmed. If you can live with some "wavy gravy" then go for it, otherwise mixed is the way to go. If you'd get frustrated every time you get stuck with a trimmed card think twice though, because it will happen fairly frequently. Sad but true.

    I recommend buying big lots from trusted sellers and building up a trading stack too. I wouldn't start buying "onesy-twosy" until I was about 75% done with any set (unless a real key card that you love comes up for sale).

    I've got a bunch of 62's and 64's if you start there.
    Mike
    Bosox1976
  • leadoff4leadoff4 Posts: 2,392
    My plan would be to buy the "key" cards already graded in a grade anywhere from 5-7 depending on eye appeal. For instance in the '64 set I would call the key cards Mantle, Rose, Mays, Koufax, Aaron, A.L. Bombers, and Clemente. The '64 is probably the first I'll start on since it's the cheapest and in my opinion underrated. I think it's a very pretty set in Ex-NM. Also, do most set builders end up selling the set and starting on another? Do you put the cards in penny sleeves before putting them in pages or just put 'em straight in the pages? Thanks Bosox for the input. Looking forward to the recent lots purchased from you.
  • Beck6Beck6 Posts: 1,038 ✭✭✭
    Though I have done mostly football, I enjoy putting them together raw (lots have always been good to me) and then upgrading the stars to graded after I have put the set together. I have found that collecting the commons first and then focusing on the stars provides me with momentum to not get bored and frustrated. My experience.
    Registry Sets:
    T222's PSA 1 or better
  • GriffinsGriffins Posts: 6,076 ✭✭✭
    I have mine in binders. I get the Roop style ones and usually have 1-4 key cards in the set slabbed, along with a pack.
    They are easy to enjoy, and look good on the shelf.

    Always looking for Topps Salesman Samples, pre '51 unopened packs, E90-2, E91a, N690 Kalamazoo Bats, and T204 Square Frame Ramly's

  • originalisbestoriginalisbest Posts: 5,918 ✭✭✭✭
    Both binders and sleeves/toploaders are good choices... binders are best for easily enjoying a set, and I feel vg-ex to ex are best for that (no fear of doing damage.) Of course if you're careful to the extreme with your albums, then high grade examples in there would be fine too. Personally, I like the organization and compactness of toploaders and shoeboxes, but that's me.
  • Bosox1976Bosox1976 Posts: 8,550 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I like CS I's and Vault boxes myself.
    Mike
    Bosox1976
  • I find it enjoyable, I started last year when I put the 2007 heritage set together that prompted me to put an actual 58 set together as well. I go with binder myself, it makes it easy to enjoy the set. The 59 set will be my project for the rest of this year. Bosox gave some very good advice of buying large lots, it makes the set building go much quicker and you can trade away the extras.
  • I'm putting together raw sets 72-77, only buying cards that are centered and nrmt/mt in condition.yes it is gratifying.I watched these players,when I was a kid
    it will take me a few years to put these together,but the chase is fun.store mine in soft sleeves and toploader
    later jeff
    set needs
    03/04 & 05/06 topps black
    72-77 topps baseball raw
    72-75 topps football raw
    any years santo,williams,banks,
    payton,butkus,sayers,piccalo,ditka,hampton
    wantlist

    good transactions katscards,swartz1,packman,Salinas
  • Yes, plastic sheets are very enjoyable. Steered clear of these for the longest time.
    There's a hole in my head where the rain comes in.
  • originalisbestoriginalisbest Posts: 5,918 ✭✭✭✭
    What brought you to the plastic sheets, highchopper?
  • rexvosrexvos Posts: 3,304 ✭✭✭✭✭
    love it.
    Looking for FB HOF Rookies
  • EstilEstil Posts: 7,052 ✭✭✭✭
    In another month (and also in November) I'll be starting on 1971 (and hopefully 1972-73) and finishing my 1974-79 sets. And yes, I do think it's fun to try to get the raw portion as nice as I reasonably can and getting the key cards in PSA 7 (I might do 8's for 1978-79 though). I know there are those that try to get all the cards in a set graded (and this would make perfect sense for the 1950s sets, especially the small 200-something card sets) but that would cost way too much money and IMO, would not be nearly as fun to look at.

    As for 1970-72, I'm doing all HOFers and checklist cards in PSA 7, and in the 2010s (I want to finish all the 1970s sets by the end of 2010 at the latest), I want to begin work on 1960s sets (probably beginning with 1966-69) but with the HOFers/checklists as 6's. So in that case my future quest is similar to the original topic poster, but I refuse to take any chances on raw key cards.
    WISHLIST
    D's: 54S,53P,50P,49S,45D+S,44S,43D,41S,40D+S,39D+S,38D+S,37D+S,36S,35D+S,all 16-34's
    Q's: 52S,47S,46S,40S,39S,38S,37D+S,36D+S,35D,34D,32D+S
    74T: 37,38,47,151,193,241,435,570,610,654,655 97 Finest silver: 115,135,139,145,310
    73T:31,55,61,62,63,64,65,66,67,68,80,152,165,189,213,235,237,257,341,344,377,379,390,422,433,453,480,497,545,554,563,580,606,613,630
    95 Ultra GM Sets: Golden Prospects,HR Kings,On-Base Leaders,Power Plus,RBI Kings,Rising Stars
  • xbaggypantsxbaggypants Posts: 2,185 ✭✭✭
    I would suggest putting a set together the doesn't have Short Prints. I've done both the 66 & 67 sets and both were a pain in the a$$
  • onebamafanonebamafan Posts: 1,318 ✭✭


    << <i>My plan would be to buy the "key" cards already graded in a grade anywhere from 5-7 depending on eye appeal. For instance in the '64 set I would call the key cards Mantle, Rose, Mays, Koufax, Aaron, A.L. Bombers, and Clemente. The '64 is probably the first I'll start on since it's the cheapest and in my opinion underrated. I think it's a very pretty set in Ex-NM. Also, do most set builders end up selling the set and starting on another? Do you put the cards in penny sleeves before putting them in pages or just put 'em straight in the pages? Thanks Bosox for the input. Looking forward to the recent lots purchased from you. >>




    i enjoyed it...and thats what i did with my 1960 set. Stars graded 6-7's
  • mccardguy1mccardguy1 Posts: 1,507 ✭✭✭
    I spent many hours this past weekend at the national picking out cards for my raw sets. I tried a few graded sets some years back but got fed up with paying 5 dollars + shipping for a common I could get in the same grade raw for a buck. I spent 50 bucks at the national and got double or even triple the amount of cards than what I would have been able to buy as graded!.

    I am assembling raw sets but buying the key cards as graded just as you mentioned. I think thats the best of both worlds and a way to maximize the value of the collection as well
    I am on a budget and I am not afraid to use it!!
  • i love buying big lots of vintage commons to start, do some trading, some buying. put them in a binder image true collecting.
  • TJMACTJMAC Posts: 864 ✭✭
    I put together some raw sets 1969, 1973, 1974 and 1976 witht the stars graded. I am also about 80% done with a 1959 set, but just lost interest. My main focus is on buying PSA stars and hofers, which keeps my interest. It is much more fun getting a graded Willie Mays, Al Kaline, Johnny Bench than guys like Dave Ricketts, Clay Dalrymple & Choo Choo Coleman. I will eventually get back to finishing my 1959 set, but I don't plan on doing any more vintage sets at this time.

    I have to admit I miss holding cards vs. having them all encased in plastic, so I do buy raws stars of the 80's and 90's through sports lots and the base Topps set each year. It is fun having some cards in binders. Maintaining focus has always been key for me when collecting since I don't have tons of money to spend.

    Everybody is different, which makes the hobby interesting.
  • julen23julen23 Posts: 4,558 ✭✭
    yes.

    anybody who has raw sets available for viewing online LMK, i love looking at raw sets.

    J
    image
    RIP GURU


  • For the past eight years or so I've been putting together raw vinatge sets with a goal of going back to my birth year (1962). At the national I completed my 1967 and 1965 sets so I'm complete all the way to 1965. Three to go.

    My MO has been to work on the sets in series, just like they were released. I complete series one, then on to series two etc. It gives some organization to my effort.

    For the 1964 set I'm going a different route. I'm going to go ahead and get all the star cards and expensive cards first (they always seem to be the last), then get all the team cards, checklists, world series and combo cards. Then I'll start on the commons. Kind of spices the hunt up a bit.

    I store all of them in Ultra Pro binders with a HOF player on the outside.

    The one drawback to my quest. Seems like once I finish a set I don't look at it again for a long time. Either I'm too focused on the next set or I'm just sick of looking at the other one.
  • wronglegwrongleg Posts: 441 ✭✭
    Completing the 1964 set that I left unfinished for 15 years (by 20 or so commons) is what got me started back collecting a year ago. I finished that and have started on a 1965 set. I do keep my cards in sheets. I haven't bought graded cards for that set but am considering it for Rose and Mantle. I have also started a 1978 PSA set and up to 17th currently on that about 2/3 of the way finished. Started ripping packs again too. Having fun all the way around.
  • RipublicaninMassRipublicaninMass Posts: 10,051 ✭✭✭
    My 1955 topps baseball set I started back in 1993 at the age of 16. I didnt care about condition just wanted to whole set. WAAAY back in 2004, when I graded it, I ended up with a complete psa 3-5 with a sprinkle fo 6's, a PSA 2 Clemente and a trimed Koufax. After buying large lots, raw cards at shows, grading the best selling the worst I have complete close to 96% of the 206 cards in PSa 7 or better woth pretty much only the stars left. I made a lot of great friends along the way, read Fogel's article about 200 times, and had my share of GEM crackouts and trimmed cards. I just wish I had found this board sooner since most of the posters here have much more experience through the years of building sets.

    Unfortunately, since the card shows are few and far between. and shipping on ebay can get expensive, we have had to modify our behavior quite a bit. The days of vintage commons binders and boxes full of commons to be picked through are maybe once or twice a year, while the appearance of trimmed cards seems to be more prevelant. If I was going to do a small prewar set (check my sigline) I would strongly consider it completely graded. However, anything post war I would do stars graded, and commons raw...and try to make the overall condition as similar as possible.

    Ted
  • Indy78Indy78 Posts: 805 ✭✭✭
    It's very fun and satisfying for me to complete sets. I collect mostly mid- to late-70's baseball, with 1975 being my favorite by far. Like many fellow collectors here, I get the stars in graded form and purchase the commons in raw form. In my experience and generally speaking, local and regional card shows have been the best (as opposed to eBay) for getting raw commons in near mint or better condition; however, eBay has been better for picking up the stars in graded form (again, near mint or better). The local and regional cards shows in my area never seem to have star cards from the 70's in decent shape.

    I love putting the cards in binders for easy viewing later. I store the binders face down in a scrapbook box that comes with a cover (1 binder per box) that I picked up at a local craft store for about 10 bucks. There's room for the binder plus graded cards for that particular set. It's a cheaper alternative to some of the slip covers I've seen sold online, and as an added bonus, the boxes stack well and are reasonably durable.
  • leadoff4leadoff4 Posts: 2,392
    Thanks for all the replies/advice so far. TJMAC, it seems you and I are very similar in that we're both on budgets, like collecting HOFers and doing sets as well. Appreciate all the info. I think I've just begun my quest for assembling the '64 set today!
  • rajah424rajah424 Posts: 439 ✭✭
    With all the replies on this topic from people collecting raw sets from the 60's it seems like there would be more trading going on. I'm working on raw sets and would like to trade instead of buying. Anybody else?
  • Working of a complete run of exhibits in a wide range of conditions, im 2 years in and still enjoying it a ton. I have finished one set already- 1962 Stat back and there are a couple I dont think I will ever finish (but I will try)- 1926, 1931-32, 1923-23 and 1933.

    I have purchased the majority raw but I prefer to buy most of the stars graded if I can.
  • fur72fur72 Posts: 2,348 ✭✭
    I have been trying to finish my 1966 Baseball set for a good 4 years now. All down to high numbers and SP's. What I like about it is I can take my time. Im in no rush. Just try to find cards here and there.
  • I just finished a raw 1955 Topps set tonight. It is very enjoyable for me. I put them it in a binder so I could enjoy the set. Most cards in this set would grade from a PSA 3 to a PSA 5. I bought the Clemente, Koufax, and Ted Williams graded, but broke them out of the cases to put in the binder. I did this to make sure I was getting an authentic and non-trimmed card. I bought lower grades (2 & 3), so I could get them cheaper. Also, look as the SGC or BCCG cards in the lower grades if you also want to break them out of the cases. They sell cheaper than the PSAs, and you still get the piece of mind of buying an inspected card.

    I am 24 common cards away from finishing a fully PSA graded 1959 Topps master set. No cards are less than a PSA 5. The set average is just over a 6 Most stars are 7s. I don't think I'll ever build another graded set, at least not a 500+ card set. I might would build a small graded set. <100 cards. It's just too expensive. If I ever did build another PSA set, I would pick a singe grade before I started and build a consistent set all the same grade.

  • fiveninerfiveniner Posts: 4,111 ✭✭✭
    Putting sets tigether is a passion of mine especially sets from mid 60s and earlier.
    Tony(AN ANGEL WATCHES OVER ME)
  • Bosox1976Bosox1976 Posts: 8,550 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Welcome SS and Indy78!

    image
    Mike
    Bosox1976
  • mccardguy1mccardguy1 Posts: 1,507 ✭✭✭


    << <i>With all the replies on this topic from people collecting raw sets from the 60's it seems like there would be more trading going on. I'm working on raw sets and would like to trade instead of buying. Anybody else? >>



    I love to trade but just cannot seem to get anyone to come to the table and do some trading. I had a number of high condition commons that I tried to trade for other nice condition commons for the same years I was working on. I was even willing to trade in the other person's favor but never got a response. I finally sold off most of the extras I had last weekend at the national. I still have tons of cards but its very difficult to find someone to trade with.
    I am on a budget and I am not afraid to use it!!
  • TJMACTJMAC Posts: 864 ✭✭
    Leadoff, good luck on your quest for a 1964 set. They are sharp looking cards and it should be a lot fun building. I think you made a good choice since it is one of the more affordable sets of the 60's. There are no major rookies, but some pretty good ones in Niekro, Allen, John, Larussa, & Pinella. What stars do you have so far?
  • It really depends on why you collect.

    I have never really been into building sets (except for my 1971 uncracked Kelloggs & 1977 Topps Mexican FB sets), but as I've now managed to acquire almost all the star cards on my wantlist (except for a 1952 Bowman Mantle and a 1954 Topps Gordie Howe), I've started to get into set-building as a new challenge.

    I recently started seriously working on building a centered raw 1961 Fleer Basketball set, and am also less seriously working on raw EX-MT 1955 Bowman and 1956 Topps football sets. I choose these three sets both because of their small size (66 cards, 160 cards, and 121 cards respectively) as well as their vibrant colors and cool designs.

    I doubt I'd ever have the patience to build a 500+ card baseball set, though.
  • leadoff4leadoff4 Posts: 2,392
    I have Mays(PSA 8), F. Robinson, Kaline, Berra and Maris so far... along with a couple of leaders cards.
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