Is putting together vintage sets fun to you?
leadoff4
Posts: 2,392 ✭
I'm contemplating putting together some raw sets from the 60s in EX-NM condition, specifically baseball sets from 62-65. I was just wondering what some of the board members thoughts were on this? Is it gratifying enough at the end because I know it's going to take a lot of time and effort, along with a lot of ups and downs. My collections is mostly HOFers from the 50s-70s, both graded and raw. Just wanted some views. Also, do you prefer to house them in binders or toploaders in boxes? I'm leaning toward the binder because I think it would be easier to enjoy them that way. Appreciate all your thoughts/comments.
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That said, I hate buying raw HOFers on ebay because there are an abundance of trimmed cards. I hate trimmed. If you can live with some "wavy gravy" then go for it, otherwise mixed is the way to go. If you'd get frustrated every time you get stuck with a trimmed card think twice though, because it will happen fairly frequently. Sad but true.
I recommend buying big lots from trusted sellers and building up a trading stack too. I wouldn't start buying "onesy-twosy" until I was about 75% done with any set (unless a real key card that you love comes up for sale).
I've got a bunch of 62's and 64's if you start there.
Bosox1976
T222's PSA 1 or better
They are easy to enjoy, and look good on the shelf.
Always looking for Topps Salesman Samples, pre '51 unopened packs, E90-2, E91a, N690 Kalamazoo Bats, and T204 Square Frame Ramly's
Bosox1976
My Registry Sets
it will take me a few years to put these together,but the chase is fun.store mine in soft sleeves and toploader
later jeff
03/04 & 05/06 topps black
72-77 topps baseball raw
72-75 topps football raw
any years santo,williams,banks,
payton,butkus,sayers,piccalo,ditka,hampton
wantlist
good transactions katscards,swartz1,packman,Salinas
As for 1970-72, I'm doing all HOFers and checklist cards in PSA 7, and in the 2010s (I want to finish all the 1970s sets by the end of 2010 at the latest), I want to begin work on 1960s sets (probably beginning with 1966-69) but with the HOFers/checklists as 6's. So in that case my future quest is similar to the original topic poster, but I refuse to take any chances on raw key cards.
D's: 54S,53P,50P,49S,45D+S,44S,43D,41S,40D+S,39D+S,38D+S,37D+S,36S,35D+S,all 16-34's
Q's: 52S,47S,46S,40S,39S,38S,37D+S,36D+S,35D,34D,32D+S
74T: 37,38,47,151,193,241,435,570,610,654,655 97 Finest silver: 115,135,139,145,310
73T:31,55,61,62,63,64,65,66,67,68,80,152,165,189,213,235,237,257,341,344,377,379,390,422,433,453,480,497,545,554,563,580,606,613,630
95 Ultra GM Sets: Golden Prospects,HR Kings,On-Base Leaders,Power Plus,RBI Kings,Rising Stars
Website
<< <i>My plan would be to buy the "key" cards already graded in a grade anywhere from 5-7 depending on eye appeal. For instance in the '64 set I would call the key cards Mantle, Rose, Mays, Koufax, Aaron, A.L. Bombers, and Clemente. The '64 is probably the first I'll start on since it's the cheapest and in my opinion underrated. I think it's a very pretty set in Ex-NM. Also, do most set builders end up selling the set and starting on another? Do you put the cards in penny sleeves before putting them in pages or just put 'em straight in the pages? Thanks Bosox for the input. Looking forward to the recent lots purchased from you. >>
i enjoyed it...and thats what i did with my 1960 set. Stars graded 6-7's
I am assembling raw sets but buying the key cards as graded just as you mentioned. I think thats the best of both worlds and a way to maximize the value of the collection as well
I have to admit I miss holding cards vs. having them all encased in plastic, so I do buy raws stars of the 80's and 90's through sports lots and the base Topps set each year. It is fun having some cards in binders. Maintaining focus has always been key for me when collecting since I don't have tons of money to spend.
Everybody is different, which makes the hobby interesting.
anybody who has raw sets available for viewing online LMK, i love looking at raw sets.
J
RIP GURU
For the past eight years or so I've been putting together raw vinatge sets with a goal of going back to my birth year (1962). At the national I completed my 1967 and 1965 sets so I'm complete all the way to 1965. Three to go.
My MO has been to work on the sets in series, just like they were released. I complete series one, then on to series two etc. It gives some organization to my effort.
For the 1964 set I'm going a different route. I'm going to go ahead and get all the star cards and expensive cards first (they always seem to be the last), then get all the team cards, checklists, world series and combo cards. Then I'll start on the commons. Kind of spices the hunt up a bit.
I store all of them in Ultra Pro binders with a HOF player on the outside.
The one drawback to my quest. Seems like once I finish a set I don't look at it again for a long time. Either I'm too focused on the next set or I'm just sick of looking at the other one.
Unfortunately, since the card shows are few and far between. and shipping on ebay can get expensive, we have had to modify our behavior quite a bit. The days of vintage commons binders and boxes full of commons to be picked through are maybe once or twice a year, while the appearance of trimmed cards seems to be more prevelant. If I was going to do a small prewar set (check my sigline) I would strongly consider it completely graded. However, anything post war I would do stars graded, and commons raw...and try to make the overall condition as similar as possible.
Ted
I love putting the cards in binders for easy viewing later. I store the binders face down in a scrapbook box that comes with a cover (1 binder per box) that I picked up at a local craft store for about 10 bucks. There's room for the binder plus graded cards for that particular set. It's a cheaper alternative to some of the slip covers I've seen sold online, and as an added bonus, the boxes stack well and are reasonably durable.
I have purchased the majority raw but I prefer to buy most of the stars graded if I can.
My Sandberg topps basic set
My Sandberg Topps Master set
I am 24 common cards away from finishing a fully PSA graded 1959 Topps master set. No cards are less than a PSA 5. The set average is just over a 6 Most stars are 7s. I don't think I'll ever build another graded set, at least not a 500+ card set. I might would build a small graded set. <100 cards. It's just too expensive. If I ever did build another PSA set, I would pick a singe grade before I started and build a consistent set all the same grade.
Bosox1976
<< <i>With all the replies on this topic from people collecting raw sets from the 60's it seems like there would be more trading going on. I'm working on raw sets and would like to trade instead of buying. Anybody else? >>
I love to trade but just cannot seem to get anyone to come to the table and do some trading. I had a number of high condition commons that I tried to trade for other nice condition commons for the same years I was working on. I was even willing to trade in the other person's favor but never got a response. I finally sold off most of the extras I had last weekend at the national. I still have tons of cards but its very difficult to find someone to trade with.
I have never really been into building sets (except for my 1971 uncracked Kelloggs & 1977 Topps Mexican FB sets), but as I've now managed to acquire almost all the star cards on my wantlist (except for a 1952 Bowman Mantle and a 1954 Topps Gordie Howe), I've started to get into set-building as a new challenge.
I recently started seriously working on building a centered raw 1961 Fleer Basketball set, and am also less seriously working on raw EX-MT 1955 Bowman and 1956 Topps football sets. I choose these three sets both because of their small size (66 cards, 160 cards, and 121 cards respectively) as well as their vibrant colors and cool designs.
I doubt I'd ever have the patience to build a 500+ card baseball set, though.