Does anyone know how to remove adhesive and paper from the back of a card?? 1955 Killebrew (before a
thenavarro
Posts: 7,497 ✭✭✭
I just bought this signed Killebrew rookie with damage as you can see. Those of you that have seen my signed rookie thread know I collect these, so I'm asking this question to make a more presentable card for my collection, not in order to doctor it and sell it, so please spare me the rod that people get when they ask these types of questions. 
Is there a proven method to getting the adhesive and black paper off the back? If I were to soak it, would the ink come off the autograph??
Thanks,
Mike
Is there a proven method to getting the adhesive and black paper off the back? If I were to soak it, would the ink come off the autograph?? Thanks,
Mike
Buying US Presidential autographs
0
Comments
BUT......
You must test the ink, FIRST.
Wet a Q-Tip. Lay it on the ink for a while. Repeat. See if the ink is on the QT.
Bottled water is safest. Use a pyrex or corning pan. NOT metal.
Do NOT get impatient. Let the black paper come-off mostly on its own.
It could take 12-hours or more; maybe less.
When the black paper leaves, soak the thing in some nice clean water.
Paper-towels and heavy phonebooks are the final step.
Patience is good in the process.
If you get wrinkles when it is dry, you can spoon them out; OR,
repeat the process and put more weight on during the drying
process.
I"ll give it a try.
Mike
<< <i>The scrapbook will soak off nicely.
BUT......
You must test the ink, FIRST.
Wet a Q-Tip. Lay it on the ink for a while. Repeat. See if the ink is on the QT.
Bottled water is safest. Use a pyrex or corning pan. NOT metal.
Do NOT get impatient. Let the black paper come-off mostly on its own.
It could take 12-hours or more; maybe less.
When the black paper leaves, soak the thing in some nice clean water.
Paper-towels and heavy phonebooks are the final step.
Patience is good in the process.
If you get wrinkles when it is dry, you can spoon them out; OR,
repeat the process and put more weight on during the drying
process. >>
Wouldn't it remove the autograph also?
But, I agree - I would test the water part in the middle where the end of the sig takes a curl.
Also - Storm - I thought they used distilled water?
mike
<< <i>The scrapbook will soak off nicely.
BUT......
You must test the ink, FIRST.
Wet a Q-Tip. Lay it on the ink for a while. Repeat. See if the ink is on the QT.
Bottled water is safest. Use a pyrex or corning pan. NOT metal.
Do NOT get impatient. Let the black paper come-off mostly on its own.
It could take 12-hours or more; maybe less.
When the black paper leaves, soak the thing in some nice clean water.
Paper-towels and heavy phonebooks are the final step.
Patience is good in the process.
If you get wrinkles when it is dry, you can spoon them out; OR,
repeat the process and put more weight on during the drying
process. >>
Is anyone else a little disturbed by how well Storm knew how to soak a card .......
/////////////////////////////////////////////
That would be the super-duper-deluxe way to do it.
There is both flouride and chlorine in some public water;
neither is a great tonic for cards.
I use bottled water to soak my postcards and stamps.
Distilled water is easy to make in a quantity enough to
soak a card or two:
Take a big pot of water and boil it with a glass lid on top.
Every few minutes, drain the lid into your pyrex. Or, one can
buy a water-distilation uinit; like the survivalists have.
<< <i>"Also - Storm - I thought they used distilled water?"
/////////////////////////////////////////////
That would be the super-duper-deluxe way to do it.
There is both flouride and chlorine in some public water;
neither is a great tonic for cards.
I use bottled water to soak my postcards and stamps.
Distilled water is easy to make in a quantity enough to
soak a card or two:
Take a big pot of water and boil it with a glass lid on top.
Every few minutes, drain the lid into your pyrex. Or, one can
buy a water-distilation uinit; like the survivalists have. >>
Too complicated for me.
You can buy steamed distilled water in the supermarket for 99 cents a gallon.
Just make sure it says "steam distilled" - some cheapie companies pawn off reverse osmosis water as distilled.
mike
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I have been a stamp guy for 50+ years.
My ENTIRE childhood was spent soaking stamps off of cards and covers.
Most of the postcards we used to throw away, after the stamps were
removed. NOW, I find myself soaking the black scrap-book paper off of
those SAME issue cards in an effort to rehab them.
<< <i>Just throwing this out there, not even sure if this is what I'd do, but since it will be just getting slabbed authentic, would it be wrong/bad idea to shoot the front with a coat of gloss before the soaking? Obviously something thats not water-based... >>
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My view is that would only add more foreign substances to the thing.
The coatings often crack or yellow as time passes.
As long as the ink tests "fast," there really is no need to coat the front.
<< <i>
<< <i>The scrapbook will soak off nicely.
BUT......
You must test the ink, FIRST.
Wet a Q-Tip. Lay it on the ink for a while. Repeat. See if the ink is on the QT.
Bottled water is safest. Use a pyrex or corning pan. NOT metal.
Do NOT get impatient. Let the black paper come-off mostly on its own.
It could take 12-hours or more; maybe less.
When the black paper leaves, soak the thing in some nice clean water.
Paper-towels and heavy phonebooks are the final step.
Patience is good in the process.
If you get wrinkles when it is dry, you can spoon them out; OR,
repeat the process and put more weight on during the drying
process. >>
Is anyone else a little disturbed by how well Storm knew how to soak a card .......
Not at all!
I know how to use a .45 caliber revolver but haven't used it on anyone?
mike
Thanks!! It worked great, dulled the signature a little but that's a small price to pay as overall it made the card look much better, it even severely lessened the appearance of two surface wrinkles that were on the front. One of them is VERY hard to see now and the other significantly lightened. Card is still drying but as you can see from the scan, it's turning out great.
Before soaking:
After soaking:
Overall - great improvement.
mike
You made that card look 100 times better !
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BigCrumbs! I made over $250 last year!
Steve
<< <i>Just curious, how long did it take to get that stuff to loosen up? I have an old book with a bunch of Indian Gum cards that I've wanted to take off the pages for 20 years but was never brave enough to actually try it. >>
The card only soaked for about 10 minutes total. The residue on the front came off after less than a minute, the back took the whole 10 minutes. The drying is taking longer, it's been drying about 7 hours now, I keep swapping out the paper towels, it will be done around midnight probably as the card has already regained most of its firmness, but I'm going to let it dry till morning anyway. It did take a leap of faith to immerse it in the water, but i'm glad I took the leap!!
Man, there's no telling how many cards are "doctored" in this fashion, I was absolutely amazed at how much better the wrinkles look now and I didn't do anything with them other than soak the card. I imagine a professional, would have it mastered and could take out creases totally easily.
Mike
Usually the older the scrapbook the easier they are to remove.
Yours came out good. it all depends on the glue.
About 95% of all 19th Century Victorian Trade Cards were soaked at one point. But they are usually very easy (sometimes the paste is just flour and water).
Never soak a real photo card (ie N172, T222, T200, R308, Baguers, Billikens, etc.)
Its always good to test a lower value card first. I have heard of people soaking them too long and actually having the layers of the card stock separate and come apart. It has never happened to me though.
<< <i>The scrapbook will soak off nicely.
BUT......
You must test the ink, FIRST.
Wet a Q-Tip. Lay it on the ink for a while. Repeat. See if the ink is on the QT.
Bottled water is safest. Use a pyrex or corning pan. NOT metal.
Do NOT get impatient. Let the black paper come-off mostly on its own.
It could take 12-hours or more; maybe less.
When the black paper leaves, soak the thing in some nice clean water.
Paper-towels and heavy phonebooks are the final step.
Patience is good in the process.
If you get wrinkles when it is dry, you can spoon them out; OR,
repeat the process and put more weight on during the drying
process. >>
is this considered acceptable by PSA?
<< <i>is this considered acceptable by PSA? >>
I don't know, but I'm only going to have it graded "Authentic" anyway so it doesn't effect that for me. After actually doing it yesterday and seeing firsthand the effects, whether it is acceptable by PSA or not, I would be willing to venture that they have slabbed a large number of soaked cards with a numeric grade.
Take care,
Mike
collecting RAW Topps baseball cards 1952 Highs to 1972. looking for collector grade (somewhere between psa 4-7 condition). let me know what you have, I'll take it, I want to finish sets, I must have something you can use for trade.
looking for Topps 71-72 hi's-62-53-54-55-59, I have these sets started