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Is an "oc" qualifier always such a bad thing?

If we're comparing a vintage card (1948 Leaf. short print) that's graded PSA 8 oc, vs. a PSA 6 with no qualifiers, which would you rather have? In my scenario, let's say the 'oc' card is centered 80/20 L-R, and 20/80 T-B. Seems to me that a card that is only that much off, could actually be a real bargain. For example, i saw a card of this issue, in PSA 8 with no qualifiers, sell for over $20k in a major auction. The same issue, with the 'oc' qualifier, as described, sold for a little over $2700. I know that as far as the Registry is concerned, an '8 oc' is "equivalent" to a 6 with no qualifiers. But VALUE-wise, does this still hold true? Seems you could make a pretty good argument that the '8 oc' is preferable, given it's OTHER attributes: sharper corners, better clarity, and overall appearance EXCEPT for the centering, which caused it the qualifier. I have to wonder if the 'oc' qualifier really deserves the stigma it carries. Perhaps for cards that are WAY off-center, like 90/10 or worse, but i still marvel at the difference in price of two 8's, when one of them is just not centered as well! What do YOU think?

Comments

  • smallstockssmallstocks Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭✭
    What you said! I don't mind some cards with the OC designation as long as I am not competing to have the #1 set in the registry. I love cards that look brand new out of the pack but are simply off center, especially when it comes to vintage cards.

    Late 60's and early to mid 70's non-sports
  • fiveninerfiveniner Posts: 4,111 ✭✭✭
    I personally have several 8 & 9 with qualifiers in my 59 Set on the Registery.They are awsome looking cards except for the oc or pd.Of course I am not looking to compete against other sets.I do however have a goal of trying to reach an overall 7.00 grade overall and am now in the process of upgrading most of my 6s that are in the set to 7s or 8s w/o qualifiers or 9s with qualifiers.At this time I am not too far from reaching my goal.
    Tony(AN ANGEL WATCHES OVER ME)
  • Stone193Stone193 Posts: 24,486 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Steve

    This really depends upon the person. Many would rather have a nice 7 or a solid centered 6 for less money.

    I'm from the era where OC didn't mean 'as' much - and there wasn't as much disparity between an 8 and 8OC.

    My memory says that there's more of a difference is price between the two today compared to 20 yrs ago.

    I picked up these two cards cheap back in the early 90s - I like them - but if I were to resell them? That would be a different story.

    Further, I think the Perry could easily be a 'slider' 8 - but that's just semantics - if ya check the prices on commons in a set - you'll find a centered 8 will bring more money than an OK centered 8 - maybe with the exception of a very low pop card.

    image

    image

    So, in the end - I'm fine with OC cards.

    mike
    Mike
  • I love 8 oc's with eye appeal. Looks fresh out of the pack.


    image



    Dave D.
  • markj111markj111 Posts: 2,921 ✭✭✭
    Yes. An 8 o/c would do well to go for 30% of an unqualified 8.
  • nam812nam812 Posts: 10,601 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Mike

    That Perry rookie is very very close in my opinion. I've seen straight 8s with worse centering that that card.
  • elsnortoelsnorto Posts: 2,012 ✭✭
    In general terms I do not mind OC cards top to bottom, but clearly horiztonally off-centered cards suffer far more in terms of eye appeal for me. Of course not all OC qualified cards are created equal, so it is really a case by case thing and subjective to the buyer's personal taste. That said, talking about low pop vintage cards can change the rules considerably and I tend to be less discrimintating and certainly the 1948 Leaf falls into that category. But in general terms, I personally am probably going for the PSA 6 instead of the PSA 8 OC with all other factors (i.e. gloss, registration, etc.) being equal.

    Snorto~
  • mikeschmidtmikeschmidt Posts: 5,756 ✭✭✭
    depends on the issue and your collecting preferences.

    On 1954 Wilson Weiners, the borders are so razor-thin anyway, centering is much less of an issue, as compared to picture quality and corners. 1948 Leaf -- big borders. The SPs are pretty darn tough whichever way you collect them, so it comes down to a budget question. Are you a corner/tone man, or a centering man?

    M
    I am actively buying MIKE SCHMIDT gem mint baseball cards. Also looking for any 19th century cabinets of Philadephia Nationals. Please PM with additional details.
  • Terrific responses! Some great cards being displayed as well! Someone mentioned that an 'oc' 8 would do well to go for 30% of a regular 8. Does anyone know of any price guide that mentions any kind of "formula" to use, for cards with qualifiers? The SMR doesn't. The 30% ratio seemed rather low at first, but may be about right. In the final analysis of course, a card is worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it. But it's good to at least have a "rule of thumb" to go by. There are so many factors to consider. Just like that Perry card which is borderline 'oc' would surely be worth much more than a card that is WAY off-center. That Perry card for example, may have been measured closer to the lower portion, where the border was off a little more (due to a very slight diamond cut), compared to the upper portion.
  • mikeschmidtmikeschmidt Posts: 5,756 ✭✭✭
    Steve --

    There is never an easy answer. An 8 never sells for the same amount twice. A 50/50 Mantle PSA 8 will sell for a HUGE premium over an unqualified PSA 8 that has inferior centering. I think, as a rule of thumb, the general price drop is equivalent to two grade points -- e.g. a PSA 8 o/c will sell for ~ what a PSA 6 typically goes for.

    But each card must be evaluated independently. The most egregious examples of price disparity tends to be those on the borderline -- e.g. when a 69/31 card get a high grade and thus sells for a huge premium, whereas a 71/29 example gets a qualifier and sells for a huge discount.
    I am actively buying MIKE SCHMIDT gem mint baseball cards. Also looking for any 19th century cabinets of Philadephia Nationals. Please PM with additional details.
  • that Perry RC is a travesty for O/C

    I dont mind them O/c, gives em character!
  • Since I collect 1955 topps cards and have them all graded I like well-centered cards because that is what first draws my eye to them. I'm upgrading some now because of the centering issue. The one exception is my Roberto Clemente card which is graded PSA 5 but it should of been a PSA 7 stain but because I got a good deal of it I bought it.
    Collecting 1955 Topps BB
  • GDM67GDM67 Posts: 2,526 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>In general terms I do not mind OC cards top to bottom, but clearly horiztonally off-centered cards suffer far more in terms of eye appeal for me. >>

    That's true for me, too.

    I agree about the Perry. That's a straight 7, at least.
  • I've never been able to figure out how to include a scan as part of my message here, but will try it again. Am trying to include a picture of the card that prompted this thread, a 1948 Leaf Bob Feller, '8 oc'. I was just really impressed with the clarity, as the focus on these Feller issues is so typically blurred, or has doubling around the facial outline, and the eyes especially often have a weird appearance, with a "looking up" appearance. This one's really nicely focused, with sharp corners. I don't know that i could find this kind of quality in a '6'.


    Aw, heck; i've tried for half an hour now, and i can't figure out how to load the picture here! If anyone wants to see it, check out the Bob Feller basic set (#2 best) for the 1948 Leaf.
  • jeff8877jeff8877 Posts: 1,164 ✭✭✭
    Email it to jeff58@sbcglobal.net and will put up for you.

    Jeff
  • jeff8877jeff8877 Posts: 1,164 ✭✭✭
  • Hey, thanks!! I don't know how you did it, but thanks! One of these days maybe i can learn how to do all these things!!
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