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How to punch out Golden Press cards

Hi, I recently won a complete 1961 Golden Press book in very nice condition with all cards intact. What is the best way to remove (punchout) the cards to better my chances for high grades? I suppose these might be similar to the Sports Illustrated for Kids cards. Any suggestions or experiences would be appreciated.

Comments

  • MooseDogMooseDog Posts: 1,948 ✭✭✭
    I think the cards might be better left intact.
  • I was planning on grading the cards.
  • If not these Golden Press cards, hasn't anyone separated the Sports Illustrated for Kids cards to submit for grading?
  • rube26105rube26105 Posts: 10,225 ✭✭
    i have a lebron james si for kids 8.5 bvg,but i didnt submit it though,got in trade,looks tore out prefectly to me?
  • bump
  • Doesn't anyone have any experience with separating these perforated cards? What is the criteria PSA uses on these to grade (degree of perforations on edges?)
  • MooseDogMooseDog Posts: 1,948 ✭✭✭
    Tombo - I understand that you want to grade the cards, but value-wise, in the long run the intact album is going to be worth more than the individually graded cards.

    If you really want to do this, I'll give you my opinion on how best to do it. First, take out the staples and separate the individual pages, Use scissors or tear the two pages apart, careful not to bend the cards. Fold each individual page along the same line as the perforation - again, careful not to damage the card - forward and back to loosen the perforation. Gently separate the card from the rest of the page...repeat for the remaining three sides.
  • GriffinsGriffins Posts: 6,076 ✭✭✭
    I've got a friend that does it almost the same way Moose described, except that he cuts the corners so the cut almost hits the corners of the card. He then carefully removes the excess, and then cleans up the perfs just a bit.
    But have you checked the prices of 9's in this set lately? Not real strong, and 8's and below are almost giveaways. The pops have really shot up, and I agree that it's better to keep the book intact in the long run. I was going to cut one of the 2 books I have apart and then realized you can put together a graded set really inexpensively, with no risk of having a raw card come back an 8 or worse.

    Always looking for Topps Salesman Samples, pre '51 unopened packs, E90-2, E91a, N690 Kalamazoo Bats, and T204 Square Frame Ramly's

  • ldfergldferg Posts: 6,755 ✭✭✭
    tombo, if you can find wheels1313, he is the man.

    he instructed me about 2 years ago as i went thru this same process. if i can locate the email, i'll post it. i was lucky enough to net 4 - 10s and the rest that i graded were 8s and 9s but not all of them came out as they should at the perforations. i would recommend the procedure moosedog mentioned. the corners will get you on this because some of the perfs are on the corners and there is no way around the dreaded fuzziness.

    good luck if you decide to grade.


    Thanks,

    David (LD_Ferg)



    1985 Topps Football (starting in psa 8) - #9 - started 05/21/06
  • GriffinsGriffins Posts: 6,076 ✭✭✭
    The method I described was from Ken (wheels1313). But 10's can be tough to count on, due to surface wear.

    Always looking for Topps Salesman Samples, pre '51 unopened packs, E90-2, E91a, N690 Kalamazoo Bats, and T204 Square Frame Ramly's

  • Thanks, I did question whether or not to leave the book intact. I did get the book for $189, which included shipping. If I get a 9 on one of the big guys (Ruth, Cobb, Wagner, Dimaggio etc) I think I would come close to making my money back right there. Without ruining the cards, I would have a hard time NOT making pretty good money on this.
  • I would check the yellow pages. There are places (possibly Kinko's) who will precision - cut paper for you to the exact desired measurements.
  • ldfergldferg Posts: 6,755 ✭✭✭
    i would not recommend a precision-cut mechanism. just my .02


    Thanks,

    David (LD_Ferg)



    1985 Topps Football (starting in psa 8) - #9 - started 05/21/06
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