Home Trading Cards & Memorabilia Forum

Galloping Ghost 33 Goudey... fake or really bad fake?

Bless their little scheming hearts for trying, but this is an AWFUL attempt at artificially aging a card. Notice the surgically altered corners... not rounded, more like cut, that just ain't natural. Then of course there is the uneven staining on the back... again, ain't natural.

My vote, really bad fake. What say the rest of you?

Snorto~

Comments

  • wolfbearwolfbear Posts: 2,759 ✭✭✭

    He sells PSA graded cards, yet he's selling this card raw :

    image

    What a joke. If you're going to doctor a reprint, at least put some effort into it. image

    He's also selling a Unitas rookie card that looks like he scraped an ink mark off the back :

    image

    Jackass!

    Pix of 'My Kids'

    "How about a little fire Scarecrow ?"
  • Wow, talk about a harsh welcome to the boards. Allow me to defend myself. If you look at any auction I have I always try to note every problem with any given card. As for the Red Grange, what more could I have said? I made it clear that the only thing I was going on to prove it was original was the fact that it did not say "reprint" at the bottom of the back like I've seen on reprints. I grade cards to sell for a profit hopefully. What is a badly creased and discolored Red Grange PSA 1 going to fetch? I decided it would be smarter to resale raw hoping someone else will want to grade it. Is that wrong? If you have something I don't know about that proves it is fake please by all means tell me and I will yank it.
    As for the Unitas, I purchased two awhile back and oddly enough they both came with weird marks in similar places on the back and one was an ink mark and one was a scratch. The one up for auction just happens to look a lot nicer so I'm selling it. Why would I grade them and end up having it under graded with a qualifier and not sell at all?
    Jesus, man, I am not trying to cheat someone. I'm trying to sell cards. I've managed to make every buyer happy SO FAR! I'm not this huge business looking to make millions. I'm one guy with a hobby. Believe me or don't, your choice but be careful when you start throwing around words about people running auctions who you don't even know. You could have simply contacted me, the seller, and said "I believe the card you are selling is a fake and here is why" but instead you drag me through the mud on the very boards I read for advice and knowledge and possibly ruin what little ground I may have been able to make. So, like I said, if you actually do have "something" to add that will show me the card is fake then please post it and I will pull the card.
    Lastly, Hi everyone, I'm new to the boards..............IT'S GREAT TO BE HERE!
  • After calming down, maybe it is best to grade and be certain. Maybe I'll get lucky and somehow get a 3 or 2. Seriously though, how am I to know by straight looking whether an older card such as the sport king is real or fake?
  • stevekstevek Posts: 30,301 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Wow, talk about a harsh welcome to the boards. Allow me to defend myself. If you look at any auction I have I always try to note every problem with any given card. As for the Red Grange, what more could I have said? I made it clear that the only thing I was going on to prove it was original was the fact that it did not say "reprint" at the bottom of the back like I've seen on reprints. I grade cards to sell for a profit hopefully. What is a badly creased and discolored Red Grange PSA 1 going to fetch? I decided it would be smarter to resale raw hoping someone else will want to grade it. Is that wrong? If you have something I don't know about that proves it is fake please by all means tell me and I will yank it.
    As for the Unitas, I purchased two awhile back and oddly enough they both came with weird marks in similar places on the back and one was an ink mark and one was a scratch. The one up for auction just happens to look a lot nicer so I'm selling it. Why would I grade them and end up having it under graded with a qualifier and not sell at all?
    Jesus, man, I am not trying to cheat someone. I'm trying to sell cards. I've managed to make every buyer happy SO FAR! I'm not this huge business looking to make millions. I'm one guy with a hobby. Believe me or don't, your choice but be careful when you start throwing around words about people running auctions who you don't even know. You could have simply contacted me, the seller, and said "I believe the card you are selling is a fake and here is why" but instead you drag me through the mud on the very boards I read for advice and knowledge and possibly ruin what little ground I may have been able to make. So, like I said, if you actually do have "something" to add that will show me the card is fake then please post it and I will pull the card.
    Lastly, Hi everyone, I'm new to the boards..............IT'S GREAT TO BE HERE! >>



    Point understood but here's the "problem" with your premise in my view. If you are not 100% sure that the card is genuine then it shouldn't be sold. Doesn't seem to me based on your comments that you are 100% sure. The solution? - send it to PSA to get it graded and then you won't have to worry about any further negative remarks.
  • stevekstevek Posts: 30,301 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>After calming down, maybe it is best to grade and be certain. Maybe I'll get lucky and somehow get a 3 or 2. Seriously though, how am I to know by straight looking whether an older card such as the sport king is real or fake? >>




    Looks as though our opinions crossed paths - LOL

    Others can give advice specifically on this Sport Kings issue, but the best way I know how to differentiate genuine from fakes in any issue is just to go to shows, dealers, fellow collectors, etc., and look at and handle hundreds and thousands of different cards, and under a loupe whenever possible. You'll give yourself an education on the various cards of interest, and spotting fakes will become sort of second nature to you.

  • wolfbearwolfbear Posts: 2,759 ✭✭✭

    Well unfounded attacks and piling on without evidence is a big part of the fun around here. image

    You did disclose the scrape on the Unitas card. Many sellers would not have.
    Also, very commendable of you to pull that Grange card which is probably a reprint.

    I can admit when I'm wrong about someone and I sincerely apologize.

    You've got some great PSA graded cards up for auction.
    Hope you do well with them and a hearty welcome to the boards ... image
    Pix of 'My Kids'

    "How about a little fire Scarecrow ?"
  • stownstown Posts: 11,321 ✭✭✭


    << <i>The solution? - send it to PSA to get it graded and then you won't have to worry about any further negative remarks. >>



    image

    and image
    So basically my kid won't be able to go to college, but at least I'll have a set where the three most expensive cards are of a player I despise ~ CDsNuts
  • mealewormmealeworm Posts: 1,271 ✭✭✭
    What they said and image
    image
    1957 Topps 99% 7.40 GPA
    Hank Aaron Basic PSA 7-8(75%)
  • elsnortoelsnorto Posts: 2,012 ✭✭


    << <i>Wow, talk about a harsh welcome to the boards. Allow me to defend myself. If you look at any auction I have I always try to note every problem with any given card. As for the Red Grange, what more could I have said? I made it clear that the only thing I was going on to prove it was original was the fact that it did not say "reprint" at the bottom of the back like I've seen on reprints. I grade cards to sell for a profit hopefully. What is a badly creased and discolored Red Grange PSA 1 going to fetch? I decided it would be smarter to resale raw hoping someone else will want to grade it. Is that wrong? If you have something I don't know about that proves it is fake please by all means tell me and I will yank it.
    As for the Unitas, I purchased two awhile back and oddly enough they both came with weird marks in similar places on the back and one was an ink mark and one was a scratch. The one up for auction just happens to look a lot nicer so I'm selling it. Why would I grade them and end up having it under graded with a qualifier and not sell at all?
    Jesus, man, I am not trying to cheat someone. I'm trying to sell cards. I've managed to make every buyer happy SO FAR! I'm not this huge business looking to make millions. I'm one guy with a hobby. Believe me or don't, your choice but be careful when you start throwing around words about people running auctions who you don't even know. You could have simply contacted me, the seller, and said "I believe the card you are selling is a fake and here is why" but instead you drag me through the mud on the very boards I read for advice and knowledge and possibly ruin what little ground I may have been able to make. So, like I said, if you actually do have "something" to add that will show me the card is fake then please post it and I will pull the card.
    Lastly, Hi everyone, I'm new to the boards..............IT'S GREAT TO BE HERE! >>




    Welcome Obusek! You should know my comments were made for the sole purpose of luring you out of lurking mode and turning you into a poster.

    image

    Seriously though, years of eBay have turned me a bit cynical on auctions like this where a seller will say just enough to cover their own proverbial butts so if the buyer does come back requesting a refund, the seller feels justified in refusing.

    It takes a stand up person to come to the boards and defend themselves in a rational manner such as you have and I am encouraged to see you decided to close the auction in question.

    Perhaps now that you are registered on the boards you may want to ask some of the great resources here about their thoughts with regards to the authenticity of such items before listing them, or at least ask for their opinions about wording item descriptions accordingly.

    Sorry for jumping the gun here and, again, welcome!

    Snorto~
  • stevekstevek Posts: 30,301 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I know 50's, 60's, and 70's Topps like the back of my hand because I own thousands of them, and have handled and inspected many, MANY thousands of them. I'll call myself an expert on those cards.

    Pre-WW2 cards I'm not an expert and I'm not even close - still learning. But one way I first began learning is initially I bought a number of lower grade raw commons from highly reputable dealers so I basically knew they were genuine. Also bought some better grade PSA cards of the issues I was interested in.

    I would trust myself buying very expensive raw 50's, 60's and 70's cards but still not with expensive raw pre-WW2 - I only buy those graded - too many really good fakes out there and I'm not as familiar with the "look & feel" of all the various issues that I need to be to make possibly costly poor decisions such as that. Perhaps one day I will be good enough.

    Note that off ebay - I still will not buy an expensive Topps card unless it is graded. Something like a 63 Rose were printed from a very skilled counterfeiter - I can tell it's a fake if holding the card, but I can't usually tell from a scan. So if I'm buying a 63 Rose high grade off ebay, I'm buying it PSA graded or not at all. In my opinion it's foolish to do it any other way.
  • It's all cool. I think I got a bit too defensive about this. Anyway, thanks for the welcome and kind words.
  • Sent it to Beckett.....questionable authenticity. Thanks for stopping me from selling it to some one who would have ended up disappointed.
    I bought this off ebay myself. Do you think I should let the seller know it was fake? Or just leave it alone. Any comments.
  • bifff257bifff257 Posts: 751 ✭✭


    << <i>I bought this off ebay myself. Do you think I should let the seller know it was fake? Or just leave it alone. Any comments. >>



    Well depending on how long ago your bought this item, you could open up a Ebay and/or Paypal claim as item not as described using the documentation from Beckett as your evidence.

    Do you have an auction number for when you bought the card.



  • I do have the auction number but it's been over three months now.
  • RipublicaninMassRipublicaninMass Posts: 10,051 ✭✭✭


    << <i>I do have the auction number but it's been over three months now. >>



    I would still contact the seller
Sign In or Register to comment.