What is the difference between PSA 8 and PSA 10?

edwin5375 · March 31, 2006 10:43AM

I have been submitting cards for about a year and a half. I am still having problems with the differences between a PSA 8 and a PSA 10 card. I don't think it is edges, corners, or centering. So with those three problems eliminated, what are some other reasons that would bump a card down to an 8? I just want to know what else to look for in judging a card and it's grade.

I always enjoy reading on this board, because it helps me out and to understand certain things about grading. So any help or feedback is appreciated.

Allen · March 31, 2006 10:44AM

1. minor surface creases....
2. grader of death 314.....

LWMM · March 31, 2006 10:50AM

Don't creases bump cards down further?

From the site
A PSA NM-MT 8 is a super high-end card that appears Mint 9 at first glance, but upon closer inspection, the card can exhibit the following: a very slight wax stain on reverse, slightest fraying at one or two corners, a minor printing imperfection, and/or slightly off-white borders. Centering must be approximately 65/35 to 70/30 or better on the front and 90/10 or better on the reverse.

edwin5375 · March 31, 2006 10:51AM

Anyone have a good example of a surface crease?

lawnmowerman · March 31, 2006 11:08AM

I believe a surface crease ( wrinkle) makes for an automatic 5

fiveniner · March 31, 2006 11:10AM

Also no loss of original gloss.No surface wear whatsoever.

nearmint · March 31, 2006 11:10AM

<< minor surface creases.... >>

In my experience, even the tiniest crease on the front will bring a card down to a 5, and any on the back will bring it down to a 6.

<< Anyone have a good example of a surface crease? >>

I have a handful lying around, but you wouldn't be able to see the creases in a scan.

yankeeno7 · March 31, 2006 11:31AM

No two 8's are equal...or any other grades for that matter but I do get your point with many cards. I have seen some 8s that look like 10s...in fact, many of them. Thats why I buy mostly 7s and 8s when it comes to vintage. I save lots of $$$ and very pleased with my cards. Just goes back to the saying "buy the card, not the holder".

lawnmowerman · March 31, 2006 11:38AM

I have two 1994 UD electric Marshall Faulk cards. One is a psa 10 that looks like an 8 and the other is a psa 8 that looks like a 10. I bought them both off ebay a few weeks back. Funny thing is, I have a raw one that looks better then both of them. I will be sending that one in on the next special.

Knuckles · March 31, 2006 12:01PM

I have a perfect 1951 Parkhurst Lindsay RC.. it has a surface wrinkle (can't see it on the back only on the front) it's a PSA 4.

stevek · March 31, 2006 12:05PM

Well you already know about the corners and other things. Of course how these grading companies do things seems to be as carefully guarded as the gold at Fort Knox. But knowing that card grading evolved from coin grading, and also being a coin collector, I can surmise that surface scratches play a part in a downgrade from a 10 to an 8 or 9. Surface scratches incurred when the cards were being handled and inserted into the packs, most likely can cause a downgrade...similar to the way "bag marks" cause downgrades of uncirculated coins.

Brian48 · March 31, 2006 12:30PM

<< What is the difference between PSA 8 and PSA 10? >>

PSA 8 = affordable.
PSA 10 = What the hell!?

Boopotts · March 31, 2006 1:26PM

Look for little 'bumps' on the surface. This is particularly true with cards printed in the '80's and earlier when the card companies used poorer card stock.

packCollector · March 31, 2006 1:36PM

if you aren't looking at it in a dark room with a lighted 10x loop , then there is no difference. the difference is in the corners under magnification

jmbkb4 · March 31, 2006 2:16PM

In terms of the cards I have graded, the difference in an 8, 9, and 10 is rather subjective.

I've had several go from PSA 8 --> PSA 10 via one crack-and-resubmit and even more go from PSA 9 --> PSA 10.

I imagine if I cracked out some of my PSA 10's, I'd get 9's and 8's.

A761506 · March 31, 2006 2:59PM

You are fooling only yourself if you do not see any difference between an 8 and a 10, especially with vintage cards. PSA 10's always exhibit near perfect centering. The difference between a 10 and 8 in centering may not be noticable on a well centered PSA 8, but then you compare the corners or edges or surface of the 8 to the 10 under 5-10x magnification and you will find very distinct differences. More often than not, PSA 8's are not centered well enough to qualify for PSA 10 status in the centering catagory. The slightest edge chipping also disqualifies a card from reaching a PSA 10. But it's really the corners more than anything that makes the difference. PSA 8 corners usually exhibit some degree of wear compared to a 10, which have absolutely minimal to no corner wear.

jmbkb4 · March 31, 2006 3:05PM

<< You are fooling only yourself if you do not see any difference between an 8 and a 10, especially with vintage cards. PSA 10's always exhibit near perfect centering. The difference between a 10 and 8 in centering may not be noticable on a well centered PSA 8, but then you compare the corners or edges or surface of the 8 to the 10 under 5-10x magnification and you will find very distinct differences. More often than not, PSA 8's are not centered well enough to qualify for PSA 10 status in the centering catagory. The slightest edge chipping also disqualifies a card from reaching a PSA 10. But it's really the corners more than anything that makes the difference. PSA 8 corners usually exhibit some degree of wear compared to a 10, which have absolutely minimal to no corner wear. >>

I completely agree with you in theory. In my reality, however, the 2 finest cards I've ever sent in both came back 8's the first time and then 10's on their next submission.

All in all, however, PSA 8's tend to have worse centering +/- dinged corners in my broader experiences.

DaBigHurt · March 31, 2006 3:56PM

When it comes to "vintage" cards, I'll concede there might be a slight difference between 8s and 10s. However when it comes to modern cards, I think which side of the bed the grader woke up on is the biggest factor on what constitutes a 8 or a 10.

zef204 · March 31, 2006 4:03PM

<< When it comes to "vintage" cards, I'll concede there might be a slight difference between 8s and 10s. However when it comes to modern cards, I think which side of the bed the grader woke up on is the biggest factor on what constitutes a 8 or a 10.

>>

In case DaBigHurt wants to edit this one

softparade · March 31, 2006 11:02PM

As far as my 1978 Topps set goes (modern) I have not seen ANY PSA 8's that would pass as a PSA 10. The 8's I have submitted I was hoping for a PSA 9. PSa 8's I have come across from abroad were mostly too OC, soft corners, awful images. So, at least with this issue, there is a HUGE difference between 8's and 10's IMO.

yankeeno7 · April 1, 2006 1:59AM

I agree in most cases it is true that you are able to tell the difference between 8s, 9s, and 10s...but all too often I see no difference at all with the naked eye.

Of course for me personally, I dont need a loupe to be happy with my 8 that appears to be a 10. It goes in my collection oh so nicely! I have a 1961 Whitey Ford thats graded a 7 that looks like a high quality 9. I love it!

I suppose its what you are into or require for your own collection but then you might be buying the holder.

Griffins · April 1, 2006 2:08AM

<< However when it comes to modern cards, I think which side of the bed the grader woke up on is the biggest factor on what constitutes a 8 or a 10. >>

Koolaid supply must be running low!

grilloj39 · April 1, 2006 2:10AM

PSA grading standards indicate a crease does not bring the grade automatically down to a "5". An excellent card should not have creases according to PSA's grading standards. A crease brings the grade down to at least a "4". As far as the diff between 8 and 10...I can always spot a flaw quickly, usually corner or centering with an 8---it is readily apparent there is a minor flaw. A card graded 10 shouldn't have any noticeable flaws (realizing some cards are overgraded with the misuse of the "10" grade).

Stone193 · April 1, 2006 2:41AM

The difference between 8 and 10?

10 - 8 = 2.

mike

WinPitcher · April 1, 2006 3:53AM

In the set I collect the difference is almost 1000.00.

Steve

jmbkb4 · April 1, 2006 4:03AM

<< In the set I collect the difference is almost 1000.00.

Steve >>

In the set I collect, the difference amounts to tens of thousands of dollars!!!

Stone193 · April 1, 2006 4:29AM

<< 

<< In the set I collect the difference is almost 1000.00.

Steve >>

In the set I collect, the difference amounts to tens of thousands of dollars!!! >>

jm
I think Steve means "per card"?

mike

A761506 · April 1, 2006 4:44AM

In many of the sets I collect, no 10's (or 9's) even exist and none will likely be discovered in the future. There are a few 8's, but they are few and far between.

What is the difference between PSA 8 and PSA 10?

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