Can someone help me understand what exactly are US Mint Uncirculated coins?

in Q & A Forum
So the subject basically is asking exactly what I’m in need of understanding I’m been reading a few different articles online, I’ve read the definition on PCGS yet I’m still somehow stuck on stupid! How ridiculous as it sounds… SMH nonetheless if one or anyone can simply the explanation for me pretend I’m a 12 years old idk… lol
So US Mint uncirculated coin from my understanding are made by being hand fed and that’s it… nothing extra VS Proof coins being hand polished and just about all the time made to perfection.
Proof coins aren’t worth much unless very rare and errors
Now US Mint uncirculated coins same thing or are they basically worthless?
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Comments
Uncirculated coins are just normal coins like you would find in your pocket change except in brand new condition with no sign of wear. As far as value, every coin is different, it depends on grade, supply and demand.
Simple answer
Any coin is uncirculated when struck until it leaves the mint and enters circulation.
I think he's referring to uncirculated mint sets.
Basically the same thing, but packaged by the mint and usually slightly better production handling than other business strikes.
I think he’s referring to uncirculated mint sets
You may be right but the heading reads “Uncirculated coins?”
so I was replying to single coins.
Correct I’m referring to US Uncirculated mint sets
So for example this coin was part of a 1961 US Uncirculated Mint Set not a Proof set. I literally took it out myself, people have told me it’s a proof coin… I know it can’t be.
For example would this coin qualify for a Full step, DD, or just with the coloring is very unique in my opinion.
Or because it was not business strike and it’s a US Uncirculated Mint set it doesn’t qualify?
I’m just wondering if all these unopened US Uncirculated Mint Sets that I have are just good for collecting or can these coin be worth more than face value?
I’m more than willing to submit them for grading if it’s worth it? Based on the research I’ve done I might have a few very rare coins that can be worth a decent amount of money but if these coins simply don’t qualify due to the way they were minted they it’s totally no worth it.
Thank you guys very much for all your help!
Sorry, that is a proof coin.
The little paper seal inside the mylar says "US Mint", so it's a set from the US Mint but not a "mint set" as in uncirculated.
Borrowed from ebay:
The original envelope - notice the "P.C." in the lower left corner ("proof coins").
So the P.C means proof coins the envelope.
Thank you very much!
Then these are simply uncirculated coins?

So do these special mint mean SP? On CoinFacts?

Yes, those are what collectors call "mint sets" (uncirculated).
The 1965 is the Special Mint Set issued for just a few years in the mid 1960s.
Thank you very much!
So basically anything that has US Mint Uncirculated can be worth something but they would need to qualify for full steps, full bell lines, all the good stuff that collectors would want these coins would qualify for VS proof set coins that won’t qualify for Full bell lines.
I assume proof set coins would only be valuable if there’s an error in the coin?
Once again I really appreciate everyone’s help in getting to understand the difference between all this.
Every coin's value depends on supply and demand. Some proof coins may have low mintage or low higher grade population and could be valuable, if there is collector interest. Same with business strike coins. The best thing would be to not worry too much about value right now, pick a series you are interested in, learn about the coins, develop a relationship with a dealer you trust. Study as many graded coins in your area of interest as you can, track what they are actually selling for in various grades. Knowledge and expertise in numismatics comes slowly.
I appreciate you help! I’m trying to understand if US Mint uncirculated sets are same as business strike I guess and if the coins I’ve got already might be worth something more then face value.
For example I’ve got a bunch of 1979 Susan B Anthony first strike coins. From what I’ve seen 1979 Susan B’s can be somewhat valuable obviously depending on condition. So I’m assuming i can have my 79 Susan B graded at ms65 or better due to the fact at since 79 the coin hasn’t been touched and in its original housing? Or because it’s a first strike coins it’s just some kind of marketing campaign that was ran back than and isn’t anything special?

There is no guarantee your Anthony dollars will grade ms65 or better. Most Anthony dollars just aren’t worth having graded. I expect they are worth more in the postmarked cards than they would be graded.
Really! Ok thank you very much for your help.
It seems like everyone’s pretty genuine on this site vs others I’ve attention get information from and for that I’m thankful to everyone that’s helping get a better understanding of the community and how it works.
Reason I’m trying to learn all about this is because I recently acquired what I think is a significant collection of what I think can be rare coins based on the readings I’ve done online, only thing is I’m not sure what exactly did I actually acquire as stupid as that might sound lol.
I know I’ve got proof coins, commemorative coins, US Uncirculated Mint set, and a bunch of books with probably 50+ sheets filled with coins dating back to 1813 dimes, quarters, nickels some in great condition most in not so good in my opinion but not bad for the year either.
Only thing is that I’m not sure if these coins that are in the US Uncirculated Mint sets could be worth anything or not? If grading those coin would fall into normal grading standards or do they fall under a “proof coin” grading standards.
Because I’ve seen some of the coins I’ve got selling on CoinFacts for a lot of money and in reality I think some might be MS67 or better when I compared the coin that sold VS my coin in the set I own.
So I’m confused? Should I cut it out of the packaging and send it in? Or leave it alone because it’s not worth the money in having it graded?
Forget all about grading until you are more experienced. Every coin has to be evaluated individually by someone very knowledgable to decide. It takes a practiced eye to tell the difference between an ms64 and ms67 Its very easy to spend $50 to have a $10 coin graded.
Keep the coins if you enjoy them, or sell them on eBay and let the market decide what they are worth. Forget about grading or valuing them yourself; that is beyond your reach. Forget about finding rarities as well.
I’ll forget about it once I make sure I’m wrong. Based on eBay and else I’ve read I think I’m sitting on coins collectors are in search of. I’ve got 8 free coins gradings from PCGS. It won’t hurt to send what I think might be worth sending if they’re all misses it is what it is, if one or two are what I think they might be you’ll all be seeing them on a future post. Better yet I’ll even post what I’m sending first to get your guys input and let’s see who actually knows more than me…
Regardless of everything I appreciate all your guys help.
Thank you
Fair enough! Posting pictures of the ones you plan on sending is a good idea, and good luck!
I definitely think it will be a good learning experience to submit the coins, but I don't necessarily share the view that the 8 submissions are "free". They came with a paid membership, didn't they?
Please do keep us posted.
I would recommend running the coins you think may be worth grading by a local dealer for an opinion. That can save you a lot of time amd effort if an experienced person views them in hand and can give you advice. If you let us know what general area you are in, forum users from that area may be able to recommend a dealer that could help you out.
You got me there buddy. 8 for $250 if I remember 😉