back to basics 1966 Topps set Raw

WinPitcher

Thanks ro The Czar and a few other guys I am down to 1 card (598) and i will have completed the set in vg/ex-ex/exmnt. It was fun building this set. I had about 200 cards from way back to start, bought a few lots, sold a few lots, I would buy some stars already graded in PSA 5, 6 ,7 and even 8 and crack them out. I have kept only 2 cards slabbed (Mantle and Maris).
I figure I am into the set for around 1,300.00. Big difference compared to my 65 set in which i was into it for almost 20k!

The set is in a binder and I can see every card. The 65 set was in 4 boxes under my bed and,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,well you know the story.


I will prolly go through the set and make a list on those cards i wish to upgrade. I bought what i felt were decent cards from the getgo so upgrading will be short.

My next set? I'm thinking of doing a non sport set or 63 Topps baseball.

Raw is the way to go.

Steve

Bosox1976

Congratulations Steve! Sounds like a nice set - and a pleasurable venture.

WinPitcher

Thanks Mike.

Steve

stown

Congrats on completing the set. Especially at a very reasonable price

Stump

Steve

Nice job on a fun set. I started doing raw sets a few years ago. Its the way to go. I have alot of graded but I have raw started or finished from 52 to 79. I have finished 58,60.66-69,71. I am down to a handful in 57,59,61,70 ,72-76. I just got a few lots in 55 and 56. I am having a ball doing this. My 57 set is only 11 cards away and I have about 1600 in right now and will need to spend another 500. I still need the Bunning,Koafax and both Robinsons and a few mid highs. Its collecting at its basics and you can view the cards easily in the binders.

Ahmanfan

Looks like you figured out the hobby. =-)

elsnorto

Congrats on the set. The only graded set I am putting together (literally JUST started by picking up my 1st) is the 1935 National Chicle. Everything else is raw for three reasons.

The first being that I cannot justify paying such (relatively) high prices for graded commons, especially when that is the case simply because they are low pop pieces that just do not get submitted frequently, and would rather spend that money on something other than a plastic slab.

Secondly, on the other side of the spectrum, there are some sets where the lower end cards just are not available graded, so building a graded set would require buying raw and submitting. Here again, I would rather spend that money on something other than grading fees and hope I get the grade(s) I collect.

Lastly, if I were to collect graded sets, I am one of those anal retentive sorts who would want every card in the set to be the same grade. I have a major compulsion for consistency and the thought of doing a "PSA 8 or higher" or "PSA 4 through PSA 6" just does not appeal to me. It would have to be a "PSA 9 only" sort of thing and that may not be realistic depending on the pop report and, even if it were, it may then not be realistic for my budget or simply what I wish to spend.

Raw sets allow you to more readily (comparatively speaking) find the cards you want, in the condition you want, for (at least closer to) the price you want.

Congrats again and keep us posted on your future pursuits when you decide which set to chase next!

Snorto~

tennesseebanker

Congrats Steve !

I have been building a raw 74 set for a couple of months now and I am really enjoying it.
It really puts personality back into collecting.

Good luck on your future sets.

originalisbest

Terrific! I've been hemming and hawing about which way to best collect a vintage set - working on '65s, but not in as high a grade as yours was - more like EX-EXMT - maybe a binder (a nice blue one with a matching slipcase) would be the way to go on it?

Congrats on your '66 set, may the needed upgrades be found easily.

Estil

I absoultely agree raw is the way to go, UNLESS it's a card with serious counterfeiting issues (like the 1984 Fleer Update Roger/Kirby rookies) or doctoring issues (like 1971 Topps' borders), then you might want to go the graded route on the keys. After all, why spend hundreds/thousands of dollars extra for a number/fancy label when you can have a nice raw set in binder/pages that's much easier to enjoy/look at (after all, this is a hobby and a hobby is about having fun and being able to enjoy your collection) than a bunch of PSA slabs. I just hope someday I can afford to collect 1960s/early 1970s sets, even in EX condition. As it stands now, I'll be lucky just to get the 1974 and 1975 sets, but at least they're still pretty affordable in NRMT/MT grade. I can also maybe get the 1973 set someday in that grade, but it looks like I'll most likely have to settle for EX-EXMTish or so for 1972 and before, if I can ever afford THAT.

But still owning a complete run of Topps 1976-2004 (among a few other things) is something one can be proud of, right?

HoofHearted

<< <i>...I am down to 1 card (598) and i will have completed the set in vg/ex-ex/exmnt. >>



Steve, I just rushed to my '66T wantlist and found out I need #598 (G. Perry), too. Dang it! I enjoy finishing other peoples' sets in addition to my own, but I guess I can't help you out. I was going to send you one if I had it. Sorry!



<< <i>My next set? I'm thinking of doing a non sport set or 63 Topps baseball. >>



I've got extra '63 Topps too. (I've got a complete raw set.) They're not in the best condition, but maybe I can help you out if you decide to go that way...

Congrats!

JVette

Congrats Steve -

I am also working on the '66 set raw. Some of the high numbers can be very challenging.
My slight jealousy won't stop me from feeling very good for you.



- Jack

handyman

1300. to make an Ex set of 1966. That is one hell of a deal. I may try and make a 1963 set then. Good idea.

felix76

I've got 4 high number '66 cards. what's a good price to get on these? They are EXMT condition and are fairly common players. The Price Guides list them at $15 each, but the guides are far from accurate. I'm hoping to get a good idea of market value from you guys.

JJins

Good job. I gotta admit, I'm kinda jealous.

WinPitcher

Felix

Depends on who they are.

are they SP?

centered?

etc etc etc


Steve

felix76

They are 455 Mickey Lolich, 470 Sam McDowell,508 Steve Hargan, 515 Frank Howard, 519 Bob Friend. Centering is decent. Not dead on but not way off center either. It's really hard for me to get a definate percentage with these small borders.

WinPitcher

Felix

None of those are hi numbers. well, they are what we call semi hi numbers. I think Hi numbers really start after 522.

You have some decent names though. Good luck.

Steve

stevek

I never knock anybody's collecting style but I've always enjoyed collecting sets the most.

Sometimes it's interesting to review a common's player history on the back of the card in which their "struggle" to get to the bigs and make it, can sometimes seem more interesting than a star who simply always excelled.

darkhorse9

This set was a lot of fun to put together, but a lot of work as well. I just finished it last winter at the Chicago show where I picked up the Twins team and the Choo Choo Coleman card.

My ultimate goal is to have every set back to the year I was born (1962) Right now I'm into the high number series on my 1967 set (need about 45 of those) and I've just started the 1965 set (into series 3 now)

For me the best way to complete a raw set is to do it series by series just like when they came out. I work on series one until it's complete, then move on to series 2, etc. That helps to keep my focus.

originalisbest

Going series-by-series isn't a bad way at all - though I'd be tempted to pick up the stars first, regardless of series.