Question: Do you max out your coins before trying to sell them?
RYK
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Do you?
I have mixed feelings on the matter. On one hand, the coin speaks for itself no matter what the holder says. On the other hand, some people rely on the holder to determine the grade, and many won't buy the MS-65 coin for MS-65 money if the coin is in a 64 holder.
I have mixed feelings on the matter. On one hand, the coin speaks for itself no matter what the holder says. On the other hand, some people rely on the holder to determine the grade, and many won't buy the MS-65 coin for MS-65 money if the coin is in a 64 holder.
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What is now proved was once only imagined. - William Blake
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
Fair enough. I do very little direct selling of certified coins. My inclination is to leave the coins alone and let the market decide. I am learning that there are several schools of thought regarding handling "undergraded" or "possibly undergraded" coins:
1. Try to get the coins into the highest grade holder.
2. Leave the coin in the undergrade holder, but where possible, add a qualifier like "old green holder" or "should be two grades higher" or "graded recently when PCGS was tight" to try to push up the price. This works with varying success.
3. Leave the coin alone and let the market decide.
<< <i>Do you max out your coins before trying to sell them >>
No, I let the dealers do that. Then when they offer first "shot" I know I'm special!
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It really depends. Newbies are impressed with the slab, experienced collectors buy the coin. Some times you get lucky, most of the time you don't.
Apropos of the coin posse/aka caca: "The longer he spoke of his honor, the tighter I held to my purse."
jim
On a similar note, there was a time when I bought a roll of coins and had all of them slabbed with grades between 64 and 66. Coins were then worth $45, $85-$100, and $350+, respectively. However, I only bought the coins for $6.75 each, plus grading. There were a few I thought should have gone a point higher, but I sold them all as is, except two 66s that are in my personal collection. Why did I not crack and resubmit you ask? The answer: I am not greedy. If I sell a coin and make money and am happy with the return, then great. If the buyer resubmits and gets a higher grade, then good for him/her.
Am I leaving perfectly good money on the table? Yeah, probably so, but this is just a hobby for me. There always gonna be someone who knows just a bit more than you do about something. And, there will always be someone where I will no more than them. There have been plenty of times I have bought a cheap coin and flipped it for more than 10 times what I paid. Likewise, I have seen folks buy a few of my coins and flip them for a nice profit, too.
All the aforementioned text was is just my opinion.
<< <i>I leave the "juice" in the coin. The majority of coins available in the market place today are maxed out. If yours isn't, it stands out. With few exceptions, I get the appropriate price. >>
Coins in old holders bring more $$.
As for tryingto max them out....Do you get the best chance for upgrading if you send in your entire set into PCGS for review or sending a few coins in "strategically"?
I have several coins in old green holders that look PQ and not sure what to do with them.
How would you send in MS64 coins "strategically" to try for MS65? Which grade (MS64 or MS65) coins would you send in with the MS64's I think could go 65?
Thanks.