hook line & sinker

mach19

After a couple of items on this page i'm hooked. I started collecting half dollars & Ike dollars. Be it the phrase I like Ike. My question is why is a 1975 Ike not minted, the proofs only have the 1776/1976 dollars?

MrKelso

Ike who?

mach19

eisenhower

TorinoCobra71

Ike Dollars WERE minted in 1975. They all bear the Dual Date of 1776-1976.

TorinoCobra71

keez

That's right, there is no 1975 year, just the bicentennial for 1975 and 1976. The first bicentennial halfs were made in early 1975 (broad block style lettering on reverse), then in the same year they made a new reverse and made the lettering less clunky looking, narrower and not block style (notice the "T" and the "S" in STATES. Notice on the reverse of the 1975 proof and the 1976 proof, that's where the difference is the easiest to see. I just recently researched this as I purchased the 1975 and 1976 proof sets and asked the coin dealer about it. Hope this helps.

MrKelso

<< <i>Ike Dollars WERE minted in 1975. They all bear the Dual Date of 1776-1976.

TorinoCobra71 >>



Yep what he said. And i want to add that they are a great Coin to collect.

mach19

Very Interesting?

mach19

P.S. I picked up a 71/72/73 all s/mint for $20.00 is this a fair price. (unc)

keez

The 1973 Ikes were only available in mint sets, I got the same ones you did as I'm trying to get nice Ikes, proof and uncirc.

cullenbryant

the last of the big circulating dollars. great choice. are you going to put them in a dansco?



<< <i>P.S. I picked up a 71/72/73 all s/mint for $20.00 is this a fair price. (unc) >>

19Lyds

<< <i>P.S. I picked up a 71/72/73 all s/mint for $20.00 is this a fair price. (unc) >>



It's a very reasonable provided they were ungraded proofs. Maybe a little high for the uncirc varities but it all depends upon their condition. The Unc 71-S's were just terrible in quality. The highest available grade for PCGS unc's for the 71-s is only a 67 whereas the 72's and 73's can be had in an MS69.
PF69 is pretty common for the Proof coins and usually go for quite a bit more than $20 each but again depending upon the grade.

You should be able to complete a Dansco set in short order but my advice is to shop carefully. There are some very nice coins out there but a whole lot more junk!

Good luck and you made a wise decision on collecting the Dwight D's!

DRG

Mint state Ike's are great fun to collect!

MS65 quality are not all that difficult to find and relatively cheap. The TOP POP's are pricey, PQ coins from the grade below are the best buy in my opinion.

Freak1c

I have a few Ikes in my collection as well. Still some good prices out there, IMO. I hadn't realized that there were not any of them with '75 on them until I saw it on... ok... CoinVault a couple years ago. There I said it.


Freak

raycyca

The mint didn't make 1975 dated The Ike series is undervalued and underloved as far as I'm concerned. They were never really popular and you can find them in the casinos, BUT, they are WELL worn there! There's a casino about 3 miles from my house, and the only time I have been there, is to try and get some Ikes to see what varities I can get. I can probably almost get a complete set in VF condition at face value. My banks don't have any of them, or, the SBA's. I bought 5 of the 1975's as a kid right from the mint and 10 of the 1975's because my Dad said they would be a good investment. He was wrong! Now you can get the 76's for less than I paid 30 years ago!!! At least I have the type 1 and type 2 coins for my set. Nostalgia is a nice thing. I can look at them and reflect on what was happening then and now. I will leave the sets raw and purcahse other raw sets to get the type 1 coins.

The rainbow toned coins can be VERY pretty and a challenge to get a set of them. The high grade coins are really hard to get because the coins are SO big! I just started a set because of James Sego. He has been a wealth of knowledge. I am trying to complete a set that I made from srcatch with raw coins. You can complete the set for a very reasonable price in MS and proof if you want, but to get a top set will take a long time and a LOT of money. Good luck if you decide to collect the 2nd bald man series. Ray

Conder101

<< <i>My question is why is a 1975 Ike not minted, >>


The Mint was afraid that the bicentennial coinage would be overly popular and that it would be hoarded by the public resulting in a serious coin shortage. In order to prevent the shortage they decided they wanted a six month production stockpile on hand before they were released. The authorizing legislation allowed them to be produced during the last half of 1975. This gave them another problem though. That would mean that the 1975 coins would only be made for 6 months which could possibly make THEM a rarity and at that time the mint was DEFINITELY against the possibility that a scarce or rare coin might be produced. To counter that possiility the Congress pased legislation providing for a six month freeze on the dat for he 1974 quarters, halves and dollars. That is why there are no 1975's.

MORGANHUNTER2

Modern crap- that will be worth big bucks someday.

cladking

Conder101 got it right- - of course. The '74 issues were struck well into 1975.

The '76 type I's were all struck in 1975 so are a sort of defacto '75 issue but the type II's
were also struck in '75. (as were '74's). There are numerous differences between the
type I's and type II's incliuding major obverse differences. The type II has a large crease
near the bottom of Ike's neck which is small on the type I. All '75 mint sets have the type
I and all '76's have the type II. There are no reported mules.

Most of these modern mules probably occur during changeover to the new year or new de-
sign. The technician changes only the obverse die

fivecents

<< <i>P.S. I picked up a 71/72/73 all s/mint for $20.00 is this a fair price. (unc) >>

Honestly thats not the great of a price. They sell for $4 to $5 each.